Gray Tank Valves are very Stiff

[JanAndBill]

I also have an external valve that in an emergency I can use, but I dislike using it on a regular basis, because of the additional length, it is a target waiting to be hit by road trash. I also never liked to put a band aid on a problem, when the fix is easy.

Don glad you liked the silicon lube trick. However there are some other issues that need attention. When our first valve from the factory leaked, it was replaced under warranty and I remember the service guy telling me he tightened the bolts up "real tight" so it wouldn't leak. All he did was make sure it leaked, and the cable would fail later. When I finally decided to pull the bottom and fix everything myself, I discovered on the manufacturer's site that the bolts should only be snugged up. I took the valve apart, checked the seals, reassembled with the proper torque on the bolts and sprayed the plunger with silicon. Problem solved with the valve. I suspect that there are lot of misinformed assembly people at the factory, that like the service guy I dealt with, think tighter is better, but in the case of these valves it can actually cause them to leak.

Since I had to replace the cable that was ruined by the over tight valve anyhow, I pulled the inner wire out and lubed it with white grease. Once back in and routed properly it also operated without binding. I adjusted all my valves and lubricated the plungers. Since then not a single leak between use and operate with a touch.

Before I closed up, I fabricated an aluminum plate as a hatch that I can remove by taking a few screws out. As a yearly maintenance I pull this plate and spray the plungers on my valves. Frankly it seems that Heartland should provide an access hatch on every trailer.

 

[JohnDar]

I also have an external valve that in an emergency I can use, but I dislike using it on a regular basis, because of the additional length, it is a target waiting to be hit by road trash. I also never liked to put a band aid on a problem, when the fix is easy.

Don glad you liked the silicon lube trick. However there are some other issues that need attention. When our first valve from the factory leaked, it was replaced under warranty and I remember the service guy telling me he tightened the bolts up "real tight" so it wouldn't leak. All he did was make sure it leaked, and the cable would fail later. When I finally decided to pull the bottom and fix everything myself, I discovered on the manufacturer's site that the bolts should only be snugged up. I took the valve apart, checked the seals, reassembled with the proper torque on the bolts and sprayed the plunger with silicon. Problem solved with the valve. I suspect that there are lot of misinformed assembly people at the factory, that like the service guy I dealt with, think tighter is better, but in the case of these valves it can actually cause them to leak.

Since I had to replace the cable that was ruined by the over tight valve anyhow, I pulled the inner wire out and lubed it with white grease. Once back in and routed properly it also operated without binding. I adjusted all my valves and lubricated the plungers. Since then not a single leak between use and operate with a touch.

Before I closed up, I fabricated an aluminum plate as a hatch that I can remove by taking a few screws out. As a yearly maintenance I pull this plate and spray the plungers on my valves. Frankly it seems that Heartland should provide an access hatch on every trailer.

Might just have to borrow one of our Level A HazMat suits, crawl up into the bowels of the beast, and check out my valves. Two of them were getting a little harder to operate towards the end of the season. No leaks or seepage, just stubborn cable operation.