Gray waste flap handle won't close

[Jajjaaj]

We bought a BH from a couple that lived in it for 3 years. It was well taken care of, or it seemed, but we've continually had problems with the tanks never emptying. I've been working on removing sludge, hard water deposits, and what not for the last year. Finally have one gray tank that shows empty. Now, I have a flap stuck open, and I believe it may have some junk blocking it or causing it to get stuck. The handle will not push in. It was closed when we left the last place, and came open while on the road. Not sure what could be going on. Not familiar with the set up, and how I can get it to close without taking everything apart.

 

[Ldo]

Try backflushing it. Fill kitchen tank, more or less and open that valve keeping dump valve closed. Be hooked to sewer so you can dump everything. Do a couple of times and it might work loose. Good luck.

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[mlpeloquin]

I have had the seals get grabbed by the blade of the valve. If you have had gunk in the tank, it could have gotten in the blades way of closing and deformed it. Then it grabs the seal. I had to replace my gray water valve twice do to this over the seven years we had owned it.

 

[Jajjaaj]

Try backflushing it. Fill kitchen tank, more or less and open that valve keeping dump valve closed. Be hooked to sewer so you can dump everything. Do a couple of times and it might work loose. Good luck.

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Back flushing has been really helpful. I'm guessing the junk in the tank has damaged the valves and will need replacing.

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I have had the seals get grabbed by the blade of the valve. If you have had gunk in the tank, it could have gotten in the blades way of closing and deformed it. Then it grabs the seal. I had to replace my gray water valve twice do to this over the seven years we had owned it.

That makes a lot of sense. How difficult is it? I know I have to remove the underbelly to get to them.

 

[Jajjaaj]

Replacing tank valves on a 2009 BH 670rl

I've done everything possible to fix issues with my tanks other than replace the tank valves and check the cables. Is there a video or step by step 'How To' that I can refer to? My husband passed 2 months ago, and I will be doing this by myself.

 

[CDN]

I am sorry for you loss. One thing I have found works really well is inexpensive Vegetable oil. Get some help and pour a gallon down the drain, I catch it in a pail and recycle. This loosens up the valves in my case.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Replacing tank valves on a 2009 BH 670rl

I've done everything possible to fix issues with my tanks other than replace the tank valves and check the cables. Is there a video or step by step 'How To' that I can refer to? My husband passed 2 months ago, and I will be doing this by myself.

First, the monitor panel that shows how full your holding tanks are is actually quite unreliable. If you're trying to fix things to it reads empty after you dump the tanks, that may prove difficult. A little crud on the sensor will give you a false reading. A few people have managed to clean the sensors one way or another, but most of us just get into a calendar-based routine for dumping tanks.

Second, if the pull handle moves freely without actually opening or closing a valve, the cable may have come loose from the plunger on the gate valve. It's held in place by a setscrew and once you get past the coroplast and locate the valve, putting the cable back into place is usually pretty easy.

Third, if the handle doesn't go all the way back in, particularly on the black tank, there can be several possible causes. If the blade that's operated by the pull handle doesn't move smoothly through the rubber gaskets, as suggested, vegetable oil may help. But since you've had some problems helped by backflushing, it could be that you've been closing the black tank valve too early, trapping debris in the path of the blade. If that's happened, you'll want to do a lot more backflushing.

Fourth, if you decide to replace the gate valve, take a look at these videos. I haven't watched them myself, but if you look at a few of them, you'll probably be on the right track. Before starting, dump the tank. Then re-level the RV so the sewer outlet is elevated a little. That way, any remaining sewage in the tank will be away from the gate valve while you work on it.

The coroplast can be challenging to remove and put back. An impact wrench will usually work better than a ratcheting socket wrench.

 

[donr827]

It sounds like the previous owner who lived in it might have left the valves open all the time. I am presuming they were stationary all the time. This can cause all kinds of problems. You might try back flushing the tanks so see if that helps free up some crap in the tanks.

 

[wdk450]

You might want to check out this nationwide mobile RV tank cleaning service. Their website says they have a dealer in Colorado.
http://allprowaterflow.com/ Their website says that they will make your tank gauges work again.

 

[Routemaster]

My Gray gate valve will not shut either now!! I will change it soon, so can someone tell were to start to undo the screws at the belly. Is it only a 2inch valve?
Den.

 

[ParkIt]

It sounds like the previous owner who lived in it might have left the valves open all the time. I am presuming they were stationary all the time. This can cause all kinds of problems. You might try back flushing the tanks so see if that helps free up some crap in the tanks.

Since you are having to do this yourself, you can try what I do anytime it doesn't seem like the tanks are flushing out fully: 5 gallon bucket filled with warm water and Dawn soap (just a little goes a long way). Fill your tank approximately 1/3 to 1/2 with it (yes, a lot of running back and forth) leaving the gasket closed. Let it sit for a couple of hours at least, lubricate your valve line if it's accessible and dump the tank. 8 out of 10 times this has worked for me and not too difficult to do.

My Gray gate valve will not shut either now!! I will change it soon, so can someone tell were to start to undo the screws at the belly. Is it only a 2inch valve?
Den.

Not sure on a Landmark but the coroplast on my rig is in two pieces: 1 shorter one under the tanks and everything UDC, the other just past the bedroom all the way back. The front one was easy enough for me to remove and also finding screws that didn't match from the factory, picked up new ones at a hardware store. The longer piece I did need help with but got it done in about 3 hours.

 

[Routemaster]

So this morning I remove the screws curbside and at the front section peered inside and can see the gate valve it is 48" in from the frame curb side so now I know were to make my access hatch for the grey water valve.
Second, then I have a small puddle of water come down I don't were from cant see. It was close to the frame no leaks around the 3" outlet that I could see, could it be the tank rinse have a leak I am guessing?.
The Deming winds came up so buttoned it up and will have to look later.
Den.

 

[Routemaster]

This was my Everest tank I replaced a few years ago that blew, does the LM 365's have the same deal for the rinse ?these 3 screws were rusty and seeping water .
Den.