Grey tank emptying, but just a little

Dylan

Well-known member
Grey number one valve pulls, but very little comes out. Don't feel water underneath in the belly. I think there's more water in the tank. Valve problem where it only partially opens?? Anyone with similar issue?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Dylan,

Is the coach level side-to-side? If the door-side is a little low, water will accumulate on that side of the tank whereas the drain is on the off-door-side.

Even if the coach is level, the tank may not be. If the supports have come loose from the frame on the door-side, the tank will be off level.

Whether an issue with the valve, or the tank position, to investigate, you'll probably have to drop the front section of the coroplast, at least in part.
 

Roller4tan

Well-known member
Grey #1 is my kitchen tank and I had the same issue. I replaced the valve and all was well for a while, but now is doing the same. I think the cable is too long and will have to get under there again. I cut the coroplast on 3 sides and used wood slats to secure it last time. So I'll use that to get back in there.:(
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Are you using a clear elbow like this one ? If not get one, they take out all of the guess work.
s-l1000.jpg


One of your gray tanks is running through the big black tank line and gushes out a lot faster, the other is the smaller line and it seems to drain slower.
You can open the valve and monitor it through the clear elbow then when it completely stops running through the elbow, have someone turn a faucet on inside and watch to see if the water starts running again. Then you will at least know the valve is opening.
You might try pulling it up on blocks on the curb side (If you don't have Level-Up) and see if you can get a better flow. Maybe your tank has dropped down on the curb side.
I would think if your pull levers are pulling out 2 or 3 inches and going back the same I think the valve is working OK.
 

Garypowell

Well-known member
Have you tried to blow back up the main drain into this "slow" tank? Others can post the pictures but you can put a cap on the main drain that has a hose connection. You close off all of the other tank drain valve and open the tank that is draining slow and turn on the hose.

I had a slow tank on my 3010 initially and had read where some reported the disc that was cut out to put the drain line in was left in the tank and was blocking the outlet. Once I blew bank into the tank with water it flowed great for a week...then slowed down again. Blew it back again and was great again....has not happened since. Disc problem....not really sure but two back flushes solved the problem.

You will also want to put a gate valve on the main drain line to facilitate putting the end cap with the garden hose on and off.

And this gate valve is a good idea to have anyway.
 

EOneal59

Active Member
Grey number one valve pulls, but very little comes out. Don't feel water underneath in the belly. I think there's more water in the tank. Valve problem where it only partially opens?? Anyone with similar issue?

Having same problem with my BH3570RS, the grey water tank from kitchen is drainingveryslow. So slow it backed up into the kitchen sink. Can't tell if the valve is open or closed but when I tapped on the valve after pulling down the underbelly it began to drain slowly.There'snowhytocheckthevalveortoseeifthelineisplugged. Will try back flusing the tank first to see if that clears it up before pulling the valve.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Isn't there a way for the installer from dropping the cutouts into the tank? Just wondering
Don

I'm sure there is . . .

But it would probably add a few seconds or a couple of dollars to the manufacturing process.
 
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