Heater manual for North Trail 26 RKS

[Desertsky]

Hi folks.

I bought a 2010 North Trail 26 RKS last April and the paperwork package that came with it has the heater manual for a different heater than what is installed. There are no model numbers on any of the visible sides of the heater. Anyone know what it might be and have a manual?


The heater is under the rear dinette seat. The problem I have is mainly a Heartland ****-poor design in the ducting system. There are three 4" ducts coming out and two 2" ducts. For some unknown reason, the designer thought that running a 2" duct 6-8ft to the bedroom was sufficient! NOT" The three 4" ducts go to: 1: the living room, 2: the bathroom, 3: the underbelly. The other 2" duct goes to the area near the outside door.

Needless to say, there is almost no airflow to the bedroom or the area near the outside door. Most of the airflow seems to go to the bathroom. The bedroom is a refrigerator and the bathroom a sauna. I am considering adding a small heater unit to the bedroom under the bed area!

 

[danemayer]

The mismatch between manual and furnace might reflect a service action that took place sometime in the last 7 or 8 years since the trailer was manufactured, which could also explain the odd ducting. Maybe the previous owner found the bedroom too hot for his liking. Usually the 2" duct goes to the underbelly.

There's a lot of print on the label in your picture. Does it say Suburban or Atwood somewhere on the label? Maybe there's also a model #.

We have a number of Atwood and Suburban Furnace manuals here. Maybe yours is there. But I'm not sure what you hope to find. If you just want to rearrange the ducting, I don't know that you'll need the manual.

 

[Desertsky]

I looked all over those labels and no model number info I could find. They are warnings in English, French and Spanish. I believe it is a Suburban.

The 2" duct to the bedroom and up front are factory as that's all that will fit into the space provided through the bathroom and under the shower pan.

I am thinking about moving it to the right all the way, capping off the hose going towards the door, replacing the under floor and bathroom lines with 2" and somehow getting to the bedroom with a 4" hose. Maybe under the floor.

 

[danemayer]

It might simpler to use supplemental heat.

 

[Desertsky]

It might simpler to use supplemental heat.

I might be but I want a permanent fix and not have to carry around more stuff to overcome a bad engineering issue. I'm getting a Big Buddy portable heater to use until I can fix this right.

 

[Silverado23]

Here are instructions on finding your furnace model for Suburban.
http://www.airxcel.com/suburban/service-support/where's-my-model-number#

If I remember correctly, The two screws holding the panel with all the 4 inch ducts on the front of your furnace is considered front panel and the model/serial number are located behind that panel.

 

[Domi]

We have a 2011 NT 28 RLS with similar problems, The ducting is as you have described. I do not have any permenant fixes for the ducting but I will tell you what we do.

First we leave the bathroom door open when not in use. That allows the extra heat to go out and generally up towards the bedroom (ours is in front of the bathroom). We also have a clip on fan that we got from ACE hardware that we mount on the slide that the door is on that helps to get better airfow in the bedroom. (We found the AC in the bedroom stinks also so we use the fan all the time. Nice white noise if needed also.)

We also have a small 1500W ceramic heater that we keep in the back of the unit. We usually have electrical hookup so this keeps the trailer warm most of the time with the furnace running at night to keep stuff from freezing.

Good luck. If you have a fix I would like to hear it.

John