Hot water heater problems

I bought a trail runner last year and lived it. I had a minor problem with the hot water heater struggling to light. The dealer replaced a sensor and said it was good to go. I recently got back from our first trip this year. 5 min navy style shower. Which is not acceptable. I adjusted the flame as it was very loud. I timed the hot water heater. With the hot water only valve open in the shower I can get about 4 gallons of hot water out in about 1 min and 45 seconds. Might be ok mixed. 1 other thing was I wasn't using a pressure regulator in the campground. I wonder if I was replacing with cold water faster than I was using hot water. Any help is welcomed I will call the dealer Monday for more help also.

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danemayer

Well-known member
Hi evinrudedad,

If the only thing running is the shower, the amount of cold water entering the water system will be the same amount as is coming out of the shower head.

From your description, it sounds like the hot water faucet is delivering hot water - 130 (F), as opposed to luke warm water. If it's actually just luke warm, make sure the outside shower faucets are turned off as the hot and cold water can mix there.

When you say you get 4 gallons out in 1:45, you didn't say whether you stopped testing, or whether the water became cold at 1:45.

Also, you haven't mentioned the make, model, and capacity of your water heater. If it's a 6 gallon tank, maybe you're not doing too bad. But if it's a 10 gallon tank, that's a different story.

You also didn't mention whether it's propane only, or electric and propane. If you also have electric, running both together gives a faster recovery/longer hot shower.

On the adjustments and repairs, do you know what sensor the dealer replaced? And did the problem you're now having start before you adjusted the flame, or after?

If you can fill in a few blanks, the answers you get will be more helpful.
 
Atwood, lp only. Not sure on capacity would hope at least 6. Water was cold at 1:45. Water was hot not like warm. Problem was before I adjusted the flame. I am not sure what sensor they replaced

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danemayer

Well-known member
I'd try holding the temp/pressure relief valve open until water comes out to eliminate any air bubble in the tank. If it takes more than 1 or 2 seconds to get water coming out, that may be the problem.

BUT - the water or steam coming out will scald you if you get it on your hand. A pair of pliers and gloves would be a good idea.
 
Thank you I will try that. Do you think if I had to much pressure going in to the system that it would be replacing the cold faster than the hot going out

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danemayer

Well-known member
Thank you I will try that. Do you think if I had to much pressure going in to the system that it would be replacing the cold faster than the hot going out

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It's not possible to add more water than you use. If a gallon comes out of the faucet, a gallon comes into the trailer water system.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
You should always use a pressure regulator to protect your rig, otherwise you will at some point be fixing leaks do to over pressure.
 
So update I filled my water tank up and showered on my driveway for a test. Plenty of hot water. It is a 6 gallon Atwood, checked the label. 2 things I did different was adjusted the air intake on the burner and use the water pump only. Could it have taken a time or 2 to break in so to speak. Any insight is welcomed

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danemayer

Well-known member
So update I filled my water tank up and showered on my driveway for a test. Plenty of hot water. It is a 6 gallon Atwood, checked the label. 2 things I did different was adjusted the air intake on the burner and use the water pump only. Could it have taken a time or 2 to break in so to speak. Any insight is welcomed

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Adjusting the air intake on the burner could result in better heating and faster recovery time.

Running on the pump versus an unregulated high pressure faucet could result in lower water flow and slower consumption of the hot water.
 
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