Hot water, only warm in camper.

[Tuke]

I have a 09 Sundance 3000RLB. My water inside coming out of the faucet is 90 degrees. The water inside the hot water heater heater is 129 degrees.
I have:
Checked the bypass at least twice.
Replaced the bypass thinking that maybe it was bad.
I removed the bypass and plugged the ends of the hose where the bypass was.
I just removed the anode rod (there wasn't much left of it), flushed the tank (which was full of gunk), and replaced the anode rod.
I believe that I checked the showers to make sure that they are both off.

Something elses I did was turn off all the valves going in and coming out of the hot water tank, now since I did this am I correct to assume that no water should be flowing through the hot water lines? And if I open a hot water faucet that nothing should come out? If this is true then that is not the case with me I still have water flowing out my faucet with just the hot open, and all the valves closed at the hot water tank.

Any input on this is appreciated.
If there is a check valve, where is it located?

 

[boatto5er]

A common cause for this is that the outside shower faucets have vibrated partially open causing the hot and cold water to mix. Check to make sure they are completely closed, and try open your hot water lines and check temps again.

 

[dbbls59]

If Gus's answer doesn't solve your problem you may have a faulty check valve. One or two valve bypass systems have check valves in the lines at the back of the water heater.

 

[NWILSON]

I had a similar problem with a home water heater. It turned out that the fill (cold water) pipe had somehow become unattached just inside the top of the tank. This was allowing the cold water to mix with the hot water at the top of the tank instead of being directed to the bottom. (Hot water on top and cold on the bottom)
I wouldn't expect this on a 4 yr old tank but if you can't find a cause on the outside......

 

[Tuke]

Since none of you answered this I wiil mention it again.
Am I correct to assume that no water should be flowing through the hot water lines if I close all 3 valves behind the hot water heater?

 

[Tuke]

I had a similar problem with a home water heater. It turned out that the fill (cold water) pipe had somehow become unattached just inside the top of the tank. This was allowing the cold water to mix with the hot water at the top of the tank instead of being directed to the bottom. (Hot water on top and cold on the bottom)
I wouldn't expect this on a 4 yr old tank but if you can't find a cause on the outside......

I checked the temp of the water inside the tank by using a cooking thermomoter by opening the pressure relief valve, since the valve is at the top of the tank I wouldnt think this would be the problem.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Since none of you answered this I wiil mention it again.
Am I correct to assume that no water should be flowing through the hot water lines if I close all 3 valves behind the hot water heater?

You are correct. If the hot water tank inlet valve is closed, no water should flow through the system out of the "fixtures". Do you have an outside shower with hot & cold valves? Make sure they are both closed. If they are even barely open, cold water can migrate to the hot side of the system through the shower head.

 

[donr827]

A common cause for this is that the outside shower faucets have vibrated partially open causing the hot and cold water to mix. Check to make sure they are completely closed, and try open your hot water lines and check temps again.

This fixed our problem when I had the same thing happen. Hope this fixes your problem.
Don

 

[NWILSON]

I'm hoping we hear what the problem was with the hot water.

 

[Tuke]

It ended up being the outside shower head. I would have sworn that I had checked that prior to removing the bypass valve, but must not have. Now I finally have hot water after going a whole summer without.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Tuke, Thanks for the update. Glad all is well and the water is HOT!

 

[JohnDar]

I'm beginning to think that putting some quarter-turn valves in the shower supply lines, behind the UDC might be a good thing for those, like me, that don't have a use for the outside shower. Less chance of the thing being left on, yet still there if it ever had a use.

 

[TravelTiger]

I'm beginning to think that putting some quarter-turn valves in the shower supply lines, behind the UDC might be a good thing for those, like me, that don't have a use for the outside shower. Less chance of the thing being left on, yet still there if it ever had a use.

Was thinking the same thing. (Sharkbite cutoff valves!) Would there be a need to go through the winterizing process for the outside shower if the water is cut off before it gets to it?


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[Tuke]

Was thinking the same thing. (Sharkbite cutoff valves!) Would there be a need to go through the winterizing process for the outside shower if the water is cut off before it gets to it?


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You would have to do it at least once, but after that if it wasnt used then no need to be done, but wouldnt hurt.

 

[wdk450]

Gang:
I recently noticed that my water heater was taking a long time to heat water on electric power. My neighbor at the RV park flushed his out as soon as he got in from a work job in North Dakota. So, the next day I got the 2 correct sockets and took my water heater apart. The anode rod I put in 2 years ago seemed to be OK in the diameter department, but was covered in both a slimy substance and about 1/8 of an inch of hard scale. The electric heating element was also covered in 1/8 inch of hard scale. I used the water flushing tool to thoroughly flush out the heater tank, and then went to work on the anode rod and the heating element with a sharp knife to scrape the scale off. The end result after reassembly was a water heater that heats water on electric much faster.

 

[JohnDar]

Gang:
I recently noticed that my water heater was taking a long time to heat water on electric power. My neighbor at the RV park flushed his out as soon as he got in from a work job in North Dakota. So, the next day I got the 2 correct sockets and took my water heater apart. The anode rod I put in 2 years ago seemed to be OK in the diameter department, but was covered in both a slimy substance and about 1/8 of an inch of hard scale. The electric heating element was also covered in 1/8 inch of hard scale. I used the water flushing tool to thoroughly flush out the heater tank, and then went to work on the anode rod and the heating element with a sharp knife to scrape the scale off. The end result after reassembly was a water heater that heats water on electric much faster.

Haven't had that problem, but I'll keep your fix in mind. And my OEM anode rod is still in good condition, waiting for it's fifth summer season. It's long life may be attributable to good CG water and a two canister filtration system.

Problem I had last summer was the water heater would not operate on gas. Electric was fine, though. So, I replaced the circuit board to no avail, and finally just removed the connectors from the solenoid valve, cleaned the blades a bit, and Voila! it worked. Even though we're always on shore power, I still like to exercise the gas systems (refer and water heater) occasionally to make sure they're good to go.