How to seal fill tube and crossovers -- All leaking!

[turbodiesel]

Hope someone can help, I'm at the end of an already short rope!!!

I have three leaks on my fresh water tanks, one where the fill line goes into the tank, and one on each end of the crossover from one tank to another. All three use the same hose as pictured below. I'm using the same stainless steel gear clamps that came from the factory, installed new hose, tightened slowly until the leaks stop, which they don't. I'm not clamping on the barb, but rather on the flat shoulder as you are supposed to.

The fill hose is not able to seal against the water coming in, and the crossover only needs to hold back an inch or two of water head, and it can't even do that! I've even tried smearing silicone on the barb of the fill hose, no help.

Perhaps a gear clamp is not the best type of clamp for this hose, as it is fairly pliable? I'm wondering if the hose is "crimping" under the gear head, causing a leak...?

ANY help whatsoever would be immensely appreciated! Surely I cannot be the only one having this difficulty?

Thanks!

(THE OFFENDING HOSE BELOW : )

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

About the only thing I can think of is to try a different type of hose. Maybe a clear poly or braided poly? Try a section between the tanks at first, if it works then go for the fill hose.

 

[Niles]

Ray has a good point, as the hose doesn't really have any pressure to it, a clear poly hose should work well. The other thing I do when putting a clamp on, is to heat the hose a little before installing the clamp, that lets the clamp really do it's job. Good luck!!

 

[turbodiesel]

I had looked at some braided poly...I know my leak would disappear if I used it. However, the fittings are too close together to get the poly in without removing one of the tanks, and I don't suppose that will be happening at all!

I picked up some T-Bar style clamps today, I'm going to give them a try.

 

[TedS]

Try a spring wire clamp that will seat in the spiral valley of the hose. Like the spring wire clamp that used to be used on radiator hose.

 

[porthole]

Looks like a T-bolt will be your best best since "bridge clamps" are not made small enough (at leastthat I have found). Bridge claps "bridge" the wire and are offset to allow a full seal.
T-bolts are superior to the standard worm drive as the compression is equal.

When you have the hose off, check to see that the tank fittings are still round. A real problem with poly tanks and worm drive clamps is excessive torque will distort the fitting.

Maybe some light application of a hair dryer on the hose to soften it up when you put it back on and careful with the the torque. The T-bolts are capable of quite a bit of clamping force, more the the poly tank and hose can take. Your benefit with those clamps is the even application.

If the tank fittings as not round, you need to fix that first.

 

[robnmo]

Hope someone can help, I'm at the end of an already short rope!!!

I have three leaks on my fresh water tanks, one where the fill line goes into the tank, and one on each end of the crossover from one tank to another. All three use the same hose as pictured below. I'm using the same stainless steel gear clamps that came from the factory, installed new hose, tightened slowly until the leaks stop, which they don't. I'm not clamping on the barb, but rather on the flat shoulder as you are supposed to.



The fill hose is not able to seal against the water coming in, and the crossover only needs to hold back an inch or two of water head, and it can't even do that! I've even tried smearing silicone on the barb of the fill hose, no help.

Perhaps a gear clamp is not the best type of clamp for this hose, as it is fairly pliable? I'm wondering if the hose is "crimping" under the gear head, causing a leak...?

ANY help whatsoever would be immensely appreciated! Surely I cannot be the only one having this difficulty?

Thanks!

(THE OFFENDING HOSE BELOW : )

View attachment 20562

We had the same problem with the crossover hose. I installed a new hose (twice) changed clamps (twice) still had the leak, I ended up putting a small amount of slicone around the bib of both tanks and slide the hose overtop of it and clamped it, let it set over night, filled the tanks no leak since and it's been about a year ago. Good luck it's rather aggravating.

 

[turbodiesel]

Did the same last night with the silicone. Filled the tank to capacity tonight, no leak after 4 hours, so I'm calling it fixed. (Actually, I slid the hose over the silicone last night, let it cure for 24 hours, then lightly tightened the clamps)

Now, if I can just get the vent hoses properly graded I can button up the bottom, hopefully not to be seen again for some time!

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone!