shramahaun
Member
Ok. Last opinion. What about a 15,5K on the GVW of a standard 5th wheel? The tow calculator shows it as acceptable.
Husky 26K Slide Hitch
- Thread starter shramahaun
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Look at the label in your driver's door frame to see what the payload is for your truck.
shramahaun
Member
Thank you, Clif & Millie.
shramahaun
Member
My 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD 4x4 6.6L Duramax Diesel Crew Cab standard bed is rated at 17,100 for a 5th wheel. So far, all of the advice (with the exception of the dealer, of course, is to go much lower than 17,000 lbs.
shramahaun
Member
Payload 2900#.
Miltp920
Well-known member
shramahaun, You never said if your 2500 was reg cab, double cab or crew cab. There is a thread on this site (Manufacturers Towing Specifications) with the 2015 Chevy Tow specs. Standard Box - Double Cab 17,300 GCVWR 24,500. Crew Cab 17,100 GCVWR 24,500. I am sure you know that GCVWR is your truck weight added to the 5er weight. Based on you saying 17,000, I assume you have the Crew Cab. If you take 24,500 and a 15,500 5er, your truck can not weigh more than 9000 (with no margin). Then you need to look at your rear axle. Like I said in another post, I had a 2500 CC short box (with air bags) I was towing a 5er that had a GVWR of 15,500. The dry weight of every shipped 5er is on a yellow sticker in the entry door. My dry weight was 12388. You should go get your 2500 weighed on a CAT scale with a FULL tank of fuel and your 5er hitch installed. Add the weight of any additional passengers or gear you want to have in your truck when you pull. Subtract all that weight from 24,500. That is how much your 5er can weigh. My pin weight was 3280 (20.7% of my actual 5er weight). You have to see if your rear axle is rated for whatever your pin weight will put on your axle. You get that at the CAT scale, when you have your front and rear axle weighed separately. When you add the weight your truck rear axle actually weighs and your expected pin weight (extra weight 5er will add to rear axle, one would want that number to not exceed the rear axle weight rating. IF all these numbers come in under the max allowed, you are "legal". There are some that tow overweight, and are not overly concerned about it, as the truck WILL tow it. I was one of those guys, until I bought my DRW truck. I knew I was over, and I added air bags to help the ride and the springs. I drove 60-62 mph and I had no problems, BUT I never had to make an emergency stop to avoid a collision. I kept my trailer brakes and my truck brakes in good repair (even changed them early to make sure I had max stopping power). The other thing that some will offer as advice is you should have margin (a buffer from your actual max weight to the max allowed 24,500 or 17,100) I do now, but I did not in history. I bought a 5er my truck was not supposed to pull (according to manufacturer tow ratings). You should be pretty good with a 2015 2500 Duramax. My truck and 5er was 23,340 rolling onto the CAT scale. My truck was rated for 22,720 MAX. I worried only for legal reasons, the truck pulled it fine. Now I do not have to worry. I have analyzed and re-analyzed the 5er I can pull, and I will not buy more than I can pull again (legally). There are many WISE RVers giving excellent advice on this site. I choose to listen to them. I did not do it immediately, but I now have a DRW and I know I am within the manufacturer limits of my truck. It gives you piece of mind to know the limits of your truck and the weights you are going to tow fall within what the manufacturer puts on the truck stickers.
shramahaun
Member
MiltP, that is a ton of useful information! Thank you, again. I have listened to all of the advice and am deciding to go with something in the dry weight range of 9900 - 13,500.
danemayer
Well-known member
For planning purposes, assume pin weight that is 20% of trailer GVWR. That would be 3,100#. Add your other 700# and you'll be at 3,800#, or still 900# over the payload spec.
If you're not heavily loaded in the trailer, and if you don't have a lot of stuff in the basement storage, your pin weight could be 300-400# lower.
Not great, but you won't be alone with those weights.
Miltp920
Well-known member
shramahaun, I actually think your truck would pull a 15,500 - BUT you would be very close to your rear axle and within 1000lbs of your GCVWR 24,500. Under is under, under is legal. Margin is an option. You do not have to weigh down a 15,500 5er so that it weighs in at 15,500. My 15,500 (dry weight was 12388). But I packed so much gear in the basement, and we put a golf cart in the garage, so mine actually weighed 15,800. Buy what makes you happy and what you feel is safe to pull. It really is your decision. I offer the advice that I collected over the past year or two, as I struggled with keeping or upgrading my truck. I wish you happy and safe travels with your family. Good advice below from Dan, I do not know how to look up your payload spec. Again, over is over. My research came to the conclusion I needed a newer 3500 to pull a 15,500 5er, and a DRW to pull more.
Miltp920
Well-known member
shramahaun, Given that you put 13,500 lbs in your post. 20% of that is 2700 (payload) on your tow vehicle. According to Dan, 2700 is a safe pin weight for your truck (under 2900). BUT 13,500 is loaded weight, not the dry weight on the yellow sticker. 13500 would need to be the GVWR of the 5er. Dry weight is the weight when it leaves the factory, with NO gear, NO water in tanks. IF you order a generator, it would be included in the dry weight (I think). I believe the yellow sticker dry weight is unique to each 5er and includes the options on that specific 5er. We put 3400lbs of gear, gas, golf cart, furniture, food supplies, pots and pans into our 5er to take if from dry 12388 to 15,800. I would guess, that 2000 lbs is normal for gear (most do not haul a golf cart in their 5er). IF you think you will have 2000 lbs of gear/water, then you take that off of 13,500 and you buy a 5er with a dry weight of 11,500. Good luck.