danemayer
Well-known member
The bypass valve might have a problem, or the check valve on the hot outlet of the water heater might be stuck open.
Is my Anderson valve bad?
- Thread starter dbbls59
- Start date
The bypass valve might have a problem, or the check valve on the hot outlet of the water heater might be stuck open.
hboy1
Active Member
I'm experiencing a similar issue. When in Normal position, the water pump keeps kicking on (all water fixtures closed including low point drains), and sometimes never fully turns off. When I look in the UDC, (with no water hose connected) I can see the water inlet sucking air.
If I screw a plug into the water inlet, the water pump works normally. If I remove that plug, it starts sucking air again....
I've emailed Andersen customer service for their input on this issue. I have not tried to run the pump on "city" connection. In "winterize"" mode, the system works normally.
If I screw a plug into the water inlet, the water pump works normally. If I remove that plug, it starts sucking air again....
I've emailed Andersen customer service for their input on this issue. I have not tried to run the pump on "city" connection. In "winterize"" mode, the system works normally.
the Anderson valve has a small rubber lubricated o ring that is usually the problem. It breaks, dries out or just plain stretches and moves out of its grove. That allows for air leak, water leak or in our case- it prevented the valve from seating correctly. We are on our 3rd. Not a hard fix but it is a pita.
danemayer
Well-known member
I'm trying to understand "sucking air" through the water inlet. Do you mean there is air blowing from inside to outside through the check valve? That would indicate a defective check valve inside the water inlet.
If you mean sucking outside air in, I'm puzzled. When set to NORMAL, the Anderson valve creates a path that connects the fresh water feed line from the tank to the suction side of the water pump. If I assume an air leak inside the 4-way valve, that would make it difficult for the pump to pull water out of the tank. But for the pump to cycle ON, I think it would have to be losing pressure on the output side, by way of a leak in the plumbing or open faucet.
That's why I'm asking whether the air is blowing to the outside of the check valve. That would cause a pressure loss that would trigger the pump.
hboy1
Active Member
Correct. Air is being sucked into the water inlet when the valve is set to "normal". When looking into the water inlet (where the water hose would connect) there is a small white ball that appears to be in place to stop water from flowing back out of the water inlet. This ball will vibrate in and out and appears to be sucking air into the 4 function fill valve.... When I put an air tight plug into the water inlet, the water pump seemingly operates normally.
May not be explaining this very good.
danemayer
Well-known member
The source of the suction is a mystery to me.
Aandaar
Well-known member
So I am confused. The only time I ever turn my pump on is when I am dry camping or traveling. Valve is set to normal and the pump is pulling from the fresh tank.
When I have hookups. I put the valve in city with hose and pressure regulator hooked up and water turned on.
My fresh tank is empty and pump is turned OFF.
Water pressure in the trailer is supplied by the hose that is hooked up.
This the way I was taught RV hookups worked since I was a Kid.
Am I suppose to also have my pump on when city water? To me this sound like unneeded pump wear and tear.
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When I have hookups. I put the valve in city with hose and pressure regulator hooked up and water turned on.
My fresh tank is empty and pump is turned OFF.
Water pressure in the trailer is supplied by the hose that is hooked up.
This the way I was taught RV hookups worked since I was a Kid.
Am I suppose to also have my pump on when city water? To me this sound like unneeded pump wear and tear.
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SNOKING
Well-known member
NO! Chris
danemayer
Well-known member
You don't want the pump turned on while on city water. And on your 2016, you may not even have to switch the valve back and forth between CITY and NORMAL. The 2nd generation valves have an extra channel. If you leave it on CITY, when at a rest stop or dry camping, just turn the pump on and it should be able to pull water from the fresh tank.
Seems that there is a problem with these valves. Too many people having problems with O rings coming off. Some say to not turn them with water pressure on. My coach is only 6 months old and I had the problem with tank filling while set on City, then overflowing. I took it apart and found there was a missing O ring. It was not in pump strainer, so no telling where it will end up. This happened on road to Florida, so had to use tank for a few days. Heartland very responsive and sending me a repair kit via next day air.
paulh
Well-known member
My fresh water tank was recently filling also while on city water. After 2 1/2 yrs. of religiously turning the Anderson valve to normal, after disconnecting from city water preparing to travel and use the pump in transit, this one time I neglected to do that. While in transit, the pump worked fine in the city position. When I hooked backup to city water the fresh water tank started overflowing within the hour. From previous experience, I figured it was the built-in check valve in the pump so recycled back and forth between city and pump/tank to try and free the check valve - no luck. I decided to change the Anderson cartridge because that was an easier place to start and as it turned out my old cartridge was very dry and hard to turn so the change out was good but didn't solve my problem. I had already upgraded the water pump to the Shurflo 4008 some time ago because it is better and quieter than the original Remco pump. I figured it was old enough to justify replacing it again and now everything is working as it should. I will continue to put the Anderson valve in the normal position when using the pump in transit
to avoid this problem again.
to avoid this problem again.
danemayer
Well-known member
My fresh water tank was recently filling also while on city water. After 2 1/2 yrs. of religiously turning the Anderson valve to normal, after disconnecting from city water preparing to travel and use the pump in transit, this one time I neglected to do that. While in transit, the pump worked fine in the city position. When I hooked backup to city water the fresh water tank started overflowing within the hour. From previous experience, I figured it was the built-in check valve in the pump so recycled back and forth between city and pump/tank to try and free the check valve - no luck. I decided to change the Anderson cartridge because that was an easier place to start and as it turned out my old cartridge was very dry and hard to turn so the change out was good but didn't solve my problem. I had already upgraded the water pump to the Shurflo 4008 some time ago because it is better and quieter than the original Remco pump. I figured it was old enough to justify replacing it again and now everything is working as it should. I will continue to put the Anderson valve in the normal position when using the pump in transit
to avoid this problem again.
Paul,
I don't think your pump problem was caused by not switching the Anderson Valve. In fact, the 2nd generation valves, which it sounds like you have, are designed so you can leave them on CITY while towing, and use the pump at rest stops. There's a 2nd channel inside the valve that allows this. And of course if you don't routinely change the position of the valve, the likelihood of an o-ring failure inside the valve is reduced.
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