Uhggg... I have same problem.
So I have a 2015 Heartland Big Country 3450RL. So my issue where I need a little advice is that two of my 6 hydraulic leveling jacks leak down while in storage. So I parked my RV from my last trip in early May with the back four jack retraced and only the front landing gear extended. I went over to my storage facility yesterday to check on it and the two middle leveling jacks (just forward of the axles) had leaked down. One side had extended about 5 inches and the other side about 2 inches. The jacks in the rear (behind the axles) had not extended. I did a quick inspection (not a detailed on just a quick glance as it was getting dark) and I didn't see any hydraulic fluid leaks.
So over the past 7.5 years, that we have had this trailer, I have had to replace every single jack due to fluid leaks and failures. Last January (2022), I had all of the hydraulic lines replaced as they were leaking around the couplers.
Sure wish there was a better way to figure out what is going on....
for anyone who has a rig with hydraulic issues.....
if there are continual problems with the hydraulic system, the relief valve setting should be checked, as too much pressure can cause repeated/continual and unnecessary leaks and hose failures..... the relief valve only needs to be set high enough to pull the slides in dependably everytime.... "common" hydraulic systems typically run between 2800 and 3200psi.... and it should only take about 1800psi to operate the slide units...
non "common" systems can run in the low triple digit pressures for a low pressure pilot system, or up to around 5500psi, and higher depending on the application....
without looking up the specs, I would bet the relief valve setting should be between 2200-2600psi for the hydraulic system.... but it may also be a pre-set, non adjustable relief valve, in which case replacing the valve would be the only option if the pressures are found to be incorrect....
check valves, pressure relief valves and holding valves DO fail sometimes, and they are the only 3 pieces that allow a hydraulic system to work dependably without destroying itself.... they are the only "fail safe" devices within the system, and any little piece of debris, overheating, or failed/broken spring can cause either too much or not enough pressure to operate the system as designed.....
for ANY one who reads this, hydraulic oil expands and contracts with temperature change... which means, when you FULLY retract or extend the slideout, as the atmospheric temperatures heats up and cools down there can be extreme pressure changes....
the pressure that is built up and locked INSIDE the fully retracted (or fully extended) side of the cylinder is going to increase a substantial amount more, UNLESS a "properly" working pressure relief valve is in the system which will allow this damaging over-pressure to escape thru the valve, relieving the high pressure oil back to the reservoir, where it its harmless... rather than allowing it to find/force its way out of the system....
a cylinder like a jack cylinder that when in use and that is not fully extended/retracted can move slightly either way as the day heats up or cools down and expands/contracts the oil, but slide units that are usually fully in or fully extended, AND hydraulic jacks that get fully retracted for travel are susceptible to premature failure... and if the pressures within the system are not correct, just replacing the seals will NOT make it better, but may stop the leaks for a month or two.......
a faulty relief valve can be the cause of failed cylinder seals, because they arent able to withstand the high internal pressures, so the plastic and rubber seals get deformed and pushed out of the way to allow the fluid to bypass to the other side of the cylinder..... sometimes when this happens, a small piece of debris may try to pass and get caught in the seal, holding it open as the pressure is reduced, but allowing it to leak fluid... the only way to prevent this is to keep clean oil and when you come to the end of a cylinder, STOP and dont continue holding the button and building pressure.... UNLESS you have checked the system pressures to make sure its correct or the problem will NEVER go away....
you CAN hold the button on a system with a working PR valve, without worry of blowing seals, or allowing the temperature to have any effect on the pressure.... a properly working system should allow many years of trouble free service, without leaks or seepage....