First year with a 2009 3670RL, which we like, alot. Only thing is, a few minor issues, the lates which we found after returning home, after our first decent road trip, that being a 4-1/2 hour ride. When we got home, we found the long cabinet, that stands on the counter, and goes to the ceiling (has two cabinet doors on it), managed to come off the wall. Fortunately, amazingly enough, it didn't do much damage at all, as it ended up on it's side, laying on the counter. What I have since realized, is that there where the screws went into the wall, seem to have rust streaks, and perhaps not a coincidence, on the exterior, in the same area where it would be located, there are a couple bubble on the "skin" of the trailer. The look like wallpaper would look that needs to be flattened. I can't help but think it's resulted in water getting in, and rusting and weakening the screws, which then resulted in the cabinet coming loose during the trip home. It's being picked up by the deale to be fixed, but I'm curious if anyone out there has had anything similar happen, and could talk about the "bubbling" in the skin....?
Latest issue....
- Thread starter Dylan
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Dylan,
Without examining the damaged area, it'll be somewhat speculative to say what's causing the damage. That said, the usual culprit is a water leak causing internal damage to the wall and to the external surface. So your guess is probably correct. The hard part now is to figure out where the water is getting in. You probably will have to do some re-caulking on the roof.
Without examining the damaged area, it'll be somewhat speculative to say what's causing the damage. That said, the usual culprit is a water leak causing internal damage to the wall and to the external surface. So your guess is probably correct. The hard part now is to figure out where the water is getting in. You probably will have to do some re-caulking on the roof.
wdk450
Well-known member
Dan and Ann:
My 2008 Bighorn 3670RL had the same thing happen last summer, minus the evidences of water, so I won't address that issue. The cabinet frame is attached to the wall during construction before it is finally finished, in such a way that re-assembly in that manner is almost impossible, so re-attachment is a real problem. I finally decided to drill access holes through the false cabinet back inside the cabinet, and close them with wood plugs when the job was finished. I used metal screw in anchor points (5/8 inch?) in the wall into which regular wood screws could be screwed. I then mounted 8 metal right angle corner braces on the back framing of the cabinet where it touches the wall. The trickiest part was final assembly, where I had to get the screws through the front access holes, through the angle brace holes and into the anchor point screw holes BLIND, by feel only. I used RVers Goop on the crosshead screwdriver tip to hold the screws during assembly. I sealed up all of the cabinet to wall/countertop edges with a clear construction adhesive caulk.
The assembly was difficult, with a few dropped screws inside, but I got it done, and think that my assembly is much stronger than the original.
My 2008 Bighorn 3670RL had the same thing happen last summer, minus the evidences of water, so I won't address that issue. The cabinet frame is attached to the wall during construction before it is finally finished, in such a way that re-assembly in that manner is almost impossible, so re-attachment is a real problem. I finally decided to drill access holes through the false cabinet back inside the cabinet, and close them with wood plugs when the job was finished. I used metal screw in anchor points (5/8 inch?) in the wall into which regular wood screws could be screwed. I then mounted 8 metal right angle corner braces on the back framing of the cabinet where it touches the wall. The trickiest part was final assembly, where I had to get the screws through the front access holes, through the angle brace holes and into the anchor point screw holes BLIND, by feel only. I used RVers Goop on the crosshead screwdriver tip to hold the screws during assembly. I sealed up all of the cabinet to wall/countertop edges with a clear construction adhesive caulk.
The assembly was difficult, with a few dropped screws inside, but I got it done, and think that my assembly is much stronger than the original.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Dylan, that would be a surprise when you open the door. 1 question, was this a used coach? If it was, I would get on the roof and check all the caulking. Also check all the caulking at the windows, front and rear caps top to bottom or anywhere there is caulking. This should be checked at least once a year. Hope you find the issue. BTW, use good caulking, like "dicor" to redo any areas you find.
