Laundry door removal question

Hi Guys.
We fulltime in a 2020 Landmark Newport and our washing machine needs serious maintenance. A series of measurements reveals that, at least, the laundry door needs to be removed so that the dryer can be moved from on top of the washer. However, there appears to be no way to remove the hinge pins! I'm very familiar with this procedure on standard Brick and Sticks doors, but this is a real puzzler. Have any of you needed to remove a closet or laundry door and if so, how???
TIA for any assistance.
 

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Administrator
Staff member
I've had to remove the door and accomplished it by removing the screws that hold the hinges to the jamb.

Peace
Dave
 
Thanks Dave - I was afraid I was going hear that! LOL

I didn't mention in the original post that it looks like I may need to remove the entire door casing, too! Hopefully not, but I guess we'll see.
Thanks again! Have a blessed Easter week.
Tony
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
Dave's right door comes off he said with no trouble. I also took off the catches as well for extra room and then also extracted four angled screws, and crinkle nails using padded G clamps/packing so as to be able to slide out the washer in its tray. I cut the Pex clamp to remove the drain from the tray.
Too heavy for us to lift over the threshold, so I built a butcher's block-style bench to wheel in and out of with the dryer.
I installed a new pump, motherboard, and caned surge proctor from Westland Sales.
I hope this will help.
Den.
 

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Last edited:
Thanks Den, I appreciate the detailed info and the pictures. Looks like I need to replace the control module/panel/board. Washer appears to be otherwise ok, but the door doesn't lock. I've already replaced the door locking mechanism and had a guy come and troubleshoot. Hope the repairman is correct, the recommended ctrl board alone costs $275 !! I'm trying to avoid his charges of about 6 hrs at 85$/hr. Wish me luck!
Thanks again,
Tony
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
Shure thing, you can do it, if you do it yourself the easiest way to change the board/pump/surge proctor out is to lay the washer down on the side on old towels and work out of the bottom one can get to everything. Check out Westland Sales in OR I received the parts in three days now our Bev is a happy camper! I received this from Westland Sales.
Den.

POWER WILL NEED TO BE TRACED FROM POWER CORD INSIDE FROM RFI FILTER (BROWN WIRE) TO SURGE PROTECTOR AND ON INTO THE BOARD. PLEASE SEE PICTURES, BROWN WIRE IS LOAD (120VAC) BLUE WIRES ARE NEUTRAL AND MUST BE COMPLETE ALSO. SURGE PROTECTOR NEEDS CONTINUITY FROM BROWN INPUT TO BROWN OUTPUT GOING INTO BOARD AND THE BLUE NEUTRAL ALSO NEEDS CONTINUITY FROM BLUE INTO SURGE PROTECTOR AND BLUE OUTPUT TO MODULE BOARD. REMOVE PLUGS TO ISOLATE SURGE PROTECTOR WHEN TESTING FOR CONTINUITY. IF THE SURGE PROTECTOR TESTS GOOD, THE BOARD MORE THAN LIKELY BAD. THIS APPLIES TO WD2000S, WD2100, WDC6200 MODELS AND PICTURES ALTHOUGH FROM XC MODEL WILL BE VERY SIMILAR WITH SAME SURGE PROTECTOR.
NOTE: IN WD2100 XC, ARWXF129 MODELS THE UPPER DISPLAY PANEL BOARDS POWER FEED MUST BE CHECKED, SEE PICTURE ATTACHED FOR THAT TEST ALSO.



THE ABOVE PICTURE SHOWS TERMINAL JCT BLOCK OF POWER CORD. BROWN IS POWER FEED, BLUE IS NEUTRAL, GREEN WITH YELLOW STRIPE IS CHASSIS GROUND WIRES. EARLIER MODELS MAY LOOK DIFFEENT BUT WILL SERVE THE
THE ABOVE PICTURE SHOWS THE PLUG FROM POWER FEED ATTACHED TO THE INPUT OF THE SURGE PROTECTOR, IN SOME CASES, THIS PLUG HAS BEEN EITHER FOUND LOOSE OR DISCONECTED, OR HAS BEEN FORGOTTEN DURING INSTALLATION OF NEW CONTROL BOARD WHICH WILL CAUSE SAME SYMPTOM, NO POWER NO LIGHTS.



Upper Board test.jpg

THE UPPER BOARD TEST BELOW FOR XC AND XF129 MODELS SHOW THE SMALL WIRE HARNESS THAT ATTACHES TO THE DISPLAY BOARD BEHIND THE BUTTONS. IF TEST IS GOOD AND STILL NO POWER OR LIGHTS, THEN MODULE BOARD IN BOTTOM OF MACHINE IS BAD.
 

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