Let's visit this again...Lippert 6 point leveling issue

uncledon

Her chauffeur
So I've read lots of posts on various issues and some get close, but I haven't solve it yet. This really is a tow part issue all related to the Lippert hydraulics, but may not be anything wrong with the hydraulics package itself.

The coach is a 2015 Bighorn 3875FB. The issue only exists when retracting the slides OR the 6 point leveling. I have a Victron BMS that indicates I'm drawing approx. 18 amps when extending and closer to 40 amps when retracting the slides. Voltage never drops below 12.7. I just installed (2) new 6 volt golf cart batteries to replace the OEM 12 volt set. All connections were checked. None loose. Relative to the slide part of the issue, and this one doesn't make sense to me. When I run the slides with the rocker switch inside the coach, they will stop 2-3 times during the retraction process. Waiting for 5 seconds or so and they will continue. I have replaced both of the 50 amp auto reset breakers that are inline with this circuit recently also. If I run the slides with the Lippert remote control it extends/retracts fine???

As far as the 6 point level system goes, which operates on the same hydraulic package, when I do an "auto retract" at the panel, it will drop out 3-4 times during the retraction process. The panel will go black and then the red LED's on the panel will flash once. I can power up the panel and hit auto retract again, and the same situation will occur. I'm beginning to wonder if the power to the Lippert panel runs through another auto reset breaker that is failing killing the panel?

Well there it is in a BIG nutshell. Anyone care to wade in? Thx.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Don,

I'd guess if you trace the wires from the battery you'll find another breaker that hasn't yet been replaced. It's also possible that a replacement breaker was not up to the job. That recently happened to me.

The difference between switch/remote operation is harder to explain. You may have a switch with a marginal connection, separate from any breaker problems.

Btw, 18-40 amp draw sounds pretty light.
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Ya as Dan said.

I would first check your ground to the frame. Remove it grind off the paint and reconnect.

Next I would bypass the factory junk 50amp and install a 80amp Auto reset breaker with new 4gauge wire straight from the batteries to the breaker and then from the breaker straight to the pump solenoid.

You will never have another problem with it again !!!

The picture is of a 25amp
12444c9836e3ee8e8b0ee6d7f0879dce.jpg


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SLO

Well-known member
I'm drawing approx. 18 amps when extending and closer to 40 amps when retracting the slides.

I too draw a lot when using slides or level up. I draw closer to 60 amps though. I installed an 80 amp manual reset breaker and #4 wire from battery to pump. I think that’s the only permeant fix. 50 amps doesn’t work very good on 60 amps of draw. I elected a manual reset breaker because sometimes I’ll trip the breaker manually while camp to disengage the front landing gear switch.


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rclogg

Member
Our '16 does the same thing, the previous owner documented it here when the unit was new. Been doing it ever since. The dealer I got it from replaced all the breakers and put in an double 50AMP. still doeas it.
Mine only does it if you hold the button after the hydraulics end their cycle. I
ts been doing it for I figure 4+ years and hasnt stopped working yet. I'm just going with it. Minor inconvenience.
But I will be following to see if you can fix it.
 

uncledon

Her chauffeur
Yes Jerrod, I've already got the 80A auto reset breaker in my basket on Amazon. I have yet to find the cables in the right length. I know others have made this mod. I was trying to verify the full load rating for the pump motor before going to this option. Does anyone know this number? Thx.
 

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
uncledon,

I have always had the same problem on my 2015 365 Newport. When I retract the 6-point leveling system while on 12v power, my system shuts off several times during the process giving me a "Low Voltage" error message on my display. Power off the system and then immediately power it back up, then hit retract and it starts retracting again. I go through this process 3 or 4 times until the legs are fully retracted. It does not do it while extending the legs nor when I have shore power on. So I've just learned to always bring my legs up before unplugging from shore power.

Keith
 

uncledon

Her chauffeur
uncledon,

I have always had the same problem on my 2015 365 Newport. When I retract the 6-point leveling system while on 12v power, my system shuts off several times during the process giving me a "Low Voltage" error message on my display. Power off the system and then immediately power it back up, then hit retract and it starts retracting again. I go through this process 3 or 4 times until the legs are fully retracted. It does not do it while extending the legs nor when I have shore power on. So I've just learned to always bring my legs up before unplugging from shore power.

Keith

Thanks for the reply Keith. It makes no difference if I'm on shore power or not. Still does it.

- - - Updated - - -

uncledon - check this page out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QSTZYV/

Be mindful also of the hole size you need in the lugs on the cables.

Thanks Dan. I placed my order today for all the stuff I'll need to convert to 80A. Thx.
 

Dumboldles

Well-known member
Hi folks, I also have this problem; I just changed out the breakers on the fuss bar with 50 amp breakers...made the mistake of telling my wife the start and stop problems were fixed. She obviously commended in a snarky way stating “thought you fixed it”. Anyway I have followed this topic...almost to the just live with it solution as long as we get the jacks up or the level up system eventually does its job.

somewhat confused as to adding the additional 80 amp breaker. Where?

included a photo of my system.

Thanks
 

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Dumboldles

Well-known member
Thanks Jerrod, that helps me a lot, was hoping that an artist would diagram it out like what you did.

Les
 

Dumboldles

Well-known member
Jerrod, went out and looked at the solenoid, I could see a screw on the top with a wire connected, assuming this is the connection point.

I admit when it comes to mechanics this guy is pathetic, thanks for the information.

Les
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
On The solenoid you will connect to the big post in the middle.

Removing the smaller factory wire off of it of course.




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uncledon

Her chauffeur
Well I got all the parts in and yesterday I made the wiring upgrade. In the process I discovered what was probably the cause for the higher than normal current draw. A poorly crimped cable. I had omitted pulling on cables when I went through and checked the tightness of the terminals. I should have known better as a retired electrician. My bad! Anyway, I now register only 14-18 A when extending the slides, and more like 28-34 A retracting. I did not run the leveling yet, but suspect similar results.

I added a grounding block to the wiring to get rid of a cluster at the shunt of the BMS also. It looks a bit cleaner in there, but one of these days when my ambition level is a bit higher I may just rearrange the whole mess. :rolleyes:

Wiring before
Before.


Wiring after
After.


The culprit
Culprit!
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Nice cleanup and upgrade. While that loose crimps isn't good, I don't see any discoloration on the terminal or wire end or any melting of the terminal insulation. Maybe that connection, while not complete, was passing sufficient current and in fact, the 50A breaker was not up to the task. Regardless, replacing that wire and terminals is exactly what I've done in the past.

Personal opinion here regarding Heartland's crimp on the coarse stranded wire - unless one is using a hydraulic or ratcheting crimper that can make a circumferential crimp on this wire type, it's just too hard to do well with standard mechanical crimping.
 

LBR

Well-known member
I was all prepared to do the 80A upgrade after our 2017 CY purchase because of the CB kicking out/overheating. I decided to buy another 50A CB from local parts house and give it another chance before upgrading. Pulled the factory original CB out and it was a 30A, not 50A. Installed my new 50A, verified tight circuit connections, and it has never faltered since. The 80A upgrade got crossed off my ToDo list permanently.
 

uncledon

Her chauffeur
Personal opinion here regarding Heartland's crimp on the coarse stranded wire - unless one is using a hydraulic or ratcheting crimper that can make a circumferential crimp on this wire type, it's just too hard to do well with standard mechanical crimping.

Agree 100% Jim! Worked in industrial maintenance all my adult life and we did many large conductor wiring jobs. Having a power crimp machine for the larger conductors is a must. Heartland should know better.
 
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