Have a 2015 Landmark 365 Key West with Lippert hydraulic leveling jacks. One jack, door side in front of tires, goes down when autoleveling. It will make contact with the ground and then seems to stick there. If the coach needs to rise a bit on that side, the jack does not go down any more - it stays at the same length resulting in it being off of the ground. I have tried leveling blocks under it thinking maybe it was maxed out and that doesn't change anything. Dealer has run tests for hydraulic leaks in cylinders, checked the hydraulic switches and can not find the problem. I, and the dealer, have spoken with Lippert and followed their instructions, all with no results. Wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and what you found out. TIA.
Leveling Jack goes Down but...
- Thread starter ksucats
- Start date
Had dealer look into that - claimed all things passed tests. That said, I've noticed that it really isn't that the leveling jack goes down but when the leveling system raises the front, the jack doesn't stay on the ground- it doesn't go up - it rises as the coach rises. I just noticed that the off-door side is starting to do that same thing now. Dealership could not find anything wrong (messed up seals, solenoids, leaking lines, nothing.) Supposedly they worked with Lippert on it as well, all with negative results.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
I replaced the brushes on my motor. No problem since.
Cost $150.
Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk
Cost $150.
Sent from my SM-A526U using Tapatalk
centerline
Well-known member
so what happens if you jack the unit up with the 3 GOOD jacks..... THEN lower the faulty jack to the ground..... then raise the other 3 jacks a bit, leaving the faulty jack in place to see if it will support a load?.....
testing the jack cylinder seals is easy, without using gauges.... testing the output pressure of the pump is easy, without using gauges.... testing the hyd circuit for that particular jack is easy, without using gauges.... these things are easy test and easy to find a problem when they are all checked in an isolated manner....
if all these check out good, you need to find out if there may be an overload sensor in the system or circuit, which could either be an electrical, or a mechanical "transducer" that has failed in some manner....
the last thing to check will be the main valve body of the system, which is made of aluminum and can crack internally, causing a lack of pressure to be delivered where it should.... there is no good way to test the valve body, but its the beginning source of each individual hydraulic circuit going out to the jacks, and they should ALL work independently, but identical to each other.... any small anomaly found when testing this valve body may be the only indicator that it is the problem.....
the first way to test it would be to switch the lines from a known GOOD circuit, with the lines from the questionable circuit.... if the problems then move into the GOOD circuit, and the questionable circuit becomes operational, then we KNOW the valve body is the problem...
I dont think your dealership has thoroughly done their job in testing the system...
testing the jack cylinder seals is easy, without using gauges.... testing the output pressure of the pump is easy, without using gauges.... testing the hyd circuit for that particular jack is easy, without using gauges.... these things are easy test and easy to find a problem when they are all checked in an isolated manner....
if all these check out good, you need to find out if there may be an overload sensor in the system or circuit, which could either be an electrical, or a mechanical "transducer" that has failed in some manner....
the last thing to check will be the main valve body of the system, which is made of aluminum and can crack internally, causing a lack of pressure to be delivered where it should.... there is no good way to test the valve body, but its the beginning source of each individual hydraulic circuit going out to the jacks, and they should ALL work independently, but identical to each other.... any small anomaly found when testing this valve body may be the only indicator that it is the problem.....
the first way to test it would be to switch the lines from a known GOOD circuit, with the lines from the questionable circuit.... if the problems then move into the GOOD circuit, and the questionable circuit becomes operational, then we KNOW the valve body is the problem...
I dont think your dealership has thoroughly done their job in testing the system...
Lou: I would agree with you last statement. Low on staff (as I'm assuming all are these days) and learning OJT. 150 miles to my selling dealer but I may set up an appointment with them to see if they can figure it out.
I can lower that jack until it makes contact with the ground again. When I raise the rear jacks, all four of them come up one at a time until all are seated in the up position. I haven't been able to keep it on the ground as it comes up second in the rotation. As a test I lowered my front gear all the way, then put down the rear stabilizing jacks. Then raised the front gear and the door-side front jack (just in front of the wheels) can up off the ground. lowered it again, raised the front and the same thing. As best I could tell, the back jacks articulated some to compensate for the raising of the front. This is also when I noticed that the off-door side, front jack) was doing the same thing but not as bad.
Definitely something wrong somewhere.
Thanks for you assistance -stay safe.
Ron
I can lower that jack until it makes contact with the ground again. When I raise the rear jacks, all four of them come up one at a time until all are seated in the up position. I haven't been able to keep it on the ground as it comes up second in the rotation. As a test I lowered my front gear all the way, then put down the rear stabilizing jacks. Then raised the front gear and the door-side front jack (just in front of the wheels) can up off the ground. lowered it again, raised the front and the same thing. As best I could tell, the back jacks articulated some to compensate for the raising of the front. This is also when I noticed that the off-door side, front jack) was doing the same thing but not as bad.
Definitely something wrong somewhere.
Thanks for you assistance -stay safe.
Ron
centerline
Well-known member
you should be able to pick the jacks up individually.... the "retract all" button will pick them ALL up in a random order, but by retracting them one at a time, this would tell us if the faulty jack is able to hold pressure in it.....
there should be no "compensating" going on in the system, UNLESS you have the auto-level feature, and activate it.... when pressing the buttons individually, the jacks should remain in the position that you leave them in, and if they retract or extend when another jack is operated, it indicates a fault somewhere... which we already know. if another jack is showing symptoms as well, im going to guess that the valve body is in fact cracked internally, and it may still be cracking more...
there should be no "compensating" going on in the system, UNLESS you have the auto-level feature, and activate it.... when pressing the buttons individually, the jacks should remain in the position that you leave them in, and if they retract or extend when another jack is operated, it indicates a fault somewhere... which we already know. if another jack is showing symptoms as well, im going to guess that the valve body is in fact cracked internally, and it may still be cracking more...
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
get the Lippert Communities app, there you will find all of the documents for testing & troubleshooting the leveling system PLUS you can post your issue and get answers asap from members(Scouts) or a Lippert tech.
