Lights are dim - battery low
- Thread starter bullenv
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
The Power Converter may not be working. When on shore power, the Power Converter should supply enough 12V DC power to the fusebox to run the refrigerator and interior lights, along with the furnace. It should also be charging the battery.
If you have a meter, check the voltage at one of the fuses in the fuse box.
We also have an owner-written 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide that may be helpful.
If you have a meter, check the voltage at one of the fuses in the fuse box.
We also have an owner-written 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide that may be helpful.
Not sure if it's relevant to the OP question, but we have found that the breakers at some campgrounds have been turned off at the post. It's a good idea to check to confirm that there is power at the post when you plug in. Also, if the post power breakers are in the "on" position, sometimes there is a main breaker at a second location in the park (distribution panel?) that may have been tripped or turned off. I usually check the clock on the microwave after plugging in. If the light is on, we have power.
Lacks power from the post could cause the battery to discharge prematurely.
Lacks power from the post could cause the battery to discharge prematurely.
Last edited:
happykraut
Well-known member
Greg after reading your post I'm a bit concerned. The pedestal should be off after the last guy disconnects and leaves his site because you should never disconnect you power cord while the pedestal breaker is on. Likewise you should never plug into a hot pedestal. Kill the power, plug in and then power up. Occasionally I have been to parks where the guy that leads you to your site will kill the breaker for you in case you don't know any better.
bullenv, you mention a new battery. Was an old one replaced? If during the installation of the new one it was even momentarily connected in reverse, the fuses in the converter were blown. The converter will not be charging the battery or providing 12 volts. Check the fuses on the converter.
Thanks for the tip Happykraut. I will make a point of checking the power before connecting/disconnecting from the post in the future. I wasn't aware that hooking up "hot" could be a problem, but that is why I frequent this site...to learn from those who know better. Thanks again.
avvidclif
Well-known member
Another reason for a PI Surge Suppressor mounted in the trailer. When plugging in it's the only thing drawing current (milliamps) until it has checked the power source and verified it's OK. It then activates a large relay applying power to the rig. Yes if stuff is on the relay is the one getting the arc but it's part of the Surge Suppressor and has a lifetime warranty. Besides relay are made for that type of use. Think of the contactor in your home AC.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
When disconnecting or reconnecting a battery....always connect the positive cable 1st. Do the reverse when disconnecting a battery. If you connect the negative cable 1st...you will always get an arc when installing the positive cable and could cause a fuse to blow. If you have a battery disconnect...turn it off and make sure you have connected the cables on the correct posts.
Bohemian
Well-known member
For those who want to know why one should always disconnect the negative first and reconnect it last. It's simply because it is connected to the ground (or bond) of the vehicle (in the U.S.A).
Actually, for safety reasons. If disconnecting the + cable first if you happen to touch your wrench to any other grounded metal (frame) it will get red hot real fast.
So if disconnecting the - first that will not be an issue.
50+ years ago when I got my first Craftsman tool set I had to try and fix everything in sight. When I got to disconnecting the battery I learned that lesson real fast. Still have that scorched wrench.
Peace
Dave
So if disconnecting the - first that will not be an issue.
50+ years ago when I got my first Craftsman tool set I had to try and fix everything in sight. When I got to disconnecting the battery I learned that lesson real fast. Still have that scorched wrench.
Peace
Dave
Check the voltage at the battery with a DC volt meter with shore power disconnected you should see whatever the current battery voltage is. Then hook up to shore power and check the voltage at the battery again. You should see something between 13.6 and 15.2. If not take a look at your converter and fuses.
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jmgratz
Original Owners Club Member
You might check your converter to see if it is charging the battery. Basicly the converter is a sophisticated battery charger. The refrigerator uses 12 volts for the control board, the lights run off 12 volts as do the slides. Hook up an external charger to the battery and see if everything works. If so your converter is either bad or the fuses to it (or mounted on it) are bad. Most of the converters have 3 30A fuses on them. The converter only works on 120volts (when plugged in toe the electric pole). The other thing that happens sometimes is the converter plug vibrates loose going down the road causing it to not work.
