Lippert Pin Box

HarleyRyder

Retired Gunslinger
Duane-

I hear you on self leveling. When that event were to occur the trailer would be somewhere behind me. Put the lube plate in (10 inch), hooked up, brought the jacks up and the gap is gone. Took a feeler gauge and found that I now have .025 clearance from the top of the jaws to the top groove on the pin.
Still bothers me that I had to do the lube plate to get the clearance to hook up. It seems to me you shouldn't have to do that. I may change pin boxes or grind down the old capture plate to give me more clearance.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Regardless of what you do you need to use the lube plate. I guess if I removed the lube plate from my pin box I would also have a gap between the pinbox and the 5th wheel. Never tried it.

Intresting thing you stated about the jaws. Good to hear that they are stronger than the rating.

I really like my hitch. Don't think I would change it for any other. However I have had a problem with the U-Bolts galding. I changed them out with grade 8 bolts and strap steel.

BC
 

trvlrerik

Well-known member
I have the companion hitch also in my tv. I had thought about changing out the U-bolts but was advised not to change, as the grade 5 U bolt supplied also gives you a friction grab around the square bed pin. Grade 8 bolts can slide on tool steel.

I had galling problems with my U bolts also, I take my hitch out nearly every week. I started to use lock tite anti-gall for stainless steel bolts and I have not had a problem since. The lock tite comes in a chapstick like resealable tube, I got it at Fastenall.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Bob-
What size grade 8 bolts did you use, 1/2 inch? And what thickness strap did you use?

The bolts are the same diameter of the U-Bolts which is 1/2". Not sure the lenght of the 8 Grade bolts but arount 5 - 5 1/2". The strap steel is 1/4". I use two pieces for the U-Bolts and one for the Draw down bolt.

I also find the frame is a little light for the torque used on the U-Bolts. From the installation instructions Step #3 it says Next, tighten the two u-bolts to 80 ft-lb. to secure the RV Base to the RV Post. I tightened the Grade 8 Bolts to 60 ft lbs and it is doing very well.

There has been a discussion about this in the past.

BC
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I feel that when you removed the plate you reduced the distance from the top plate to the top of your Pin Jaws. You now have a none standard height 5th wheel hitch and it will create problems forever. I cannot believe the rep at B&W allowed you to have the clearance, you are going from a 11" dia plate to a 1/4" face to support your trailer pin. The pin and Jaws will wear off in no time but the jaws will be substandard. If its acceptible to B&W well you go for it but the next trailer you connect will not have a worn pin shoulder so you will put more wear on both jaw and pin again.
Grinding out the holder on the removed plate is the next most appropriate move but it will be very important to leave a smooth finish because the teflon plate you put on the trailer pin will rotate on the trailer and not the Hitch, the holding of the teflon plate will loose up and your plate will fall off everytiome its unhooked.
I am in the same delima about changing the hitch in my truck because I have 8 brackets on my old style unit and now the hitches have only 4. So 4 more holes in my box not being used. I feel you would be in the same predicament. A new plate without the holder might be the 100% best move here.
What about the hitch plate now will it be heavy enough to hold the weight of your trailer. I broke the pin right off mine because the teflon plate was 9" and it craked the plate all around the Pin. Maybe the plate on top of your Jaws will fail after a while.
 

Larryheadhunter

X-Rookies Still Luving it
Hi Harley Ryder and all you tech wizards. I just went to the pullrite website www.pullrite.com and looked at the superglide owners manual. If you use a teflon pad, you will void the warranty. I found this out from one of the technicians at pullrite. This quote is taken straight from the owners manual: Can I use a Teflon disc or lube plate on the king pin plate?
The king pin box and SuperGlide plate or “head” move together and since there is no friction, there is no need for any grease or a lube plate. Use of a Teflon disc or lube plate would cause the king pin to be short and problems hooking up
will occur.

The newer superglides don't require slip plate if made after Nov 2009. Ones built before require "slip plate" every time you use the rig. Try to spray on the night before using on the the top and inner tubes of the autoglider. Hannah has the newer version that has a plastic part that only requires wd 40 or 3 in one oil on the capture plate and the inside jaws. Please read the pullrite owner manual on their website before making any changes to the hitch, and causing huge problems to your hitch and hitch pin cushion. On the bottom of the hitch pin cushion is a spacer with a hole for the goose neck. That spacer hits the very top of the capture plate, which is like a ramp as you back into it, raising the hitch, and sliding across until the goose neck slides in to the jaws, which if done correctly, will snap the jaws shot and cause the handle to basically move forward, if the jaw closes properly. You will know if you did it correctly, if your hear a snap shut, rather than a clunk. The purpose of the spacer is to make sure that the spacer slides onto the ramp and also creates space between the hitch pin cushion and the truck rails.

AGAIN READ THE PULLRITE MANUAL ON LINE AT THEIR WEBSITE FOR PRECISE INSTRUCTIONS. IF YOU DON'T FOLLOW THEIR INSTRUCTIONS, YOU MOST LIKELY WILL DAMAGE YOUR HITCH!
 

porthole

Retired
I don't see how this is an improvement. Mine will not rust and I don't spray it daily.

All I have to do now is just spray the rails with Slip Plate every day I actually use the hitch. And if my days are light travel (NJ campsites) I usually only spray on the departure from home.
 
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Larryheadhunter

X-Rookies Still Luving it
Look at Alan's pictures of the underside that's added to the pin cushion. It shows a spacer which is exclusive to the Pullrite hitch. Many of the guys who took my rig to a repair shop had to remove it because their hitch was lower, and they would hit their truck rails.

And Duane, I am corrected about spraying the slip plate. Only the nite before traveling. Thanks.
 

porthole

Retired
I am corrected about spraying the slip plate. Only the nite before traveling. Thanks.

Larry you were correct.
I was referring to your reference with the "new since November 09" improvement.

It seems that you better spray the rails almost daily in wet weather or the rails will rust and damage the nylon pads. That is right out of the manual (the damage from rust part).

I'll keep my pre 11/09 version with the occasional application of slip plate.
 
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