Location for Installing EMS

[floridarandy]

Our 2008 Sundance 2900MK does not have a generator. I'm considering a hardwired Progressive Industries EMS and I have a couple of questions.

The breakers are located at floor level just below the small closet immediately inside the entry door. I am trying to determine if I can install the EMS at the base of this small closet just above the breaker box since I assume the power enters directly into the breaker box before being distributed to the coach.

The Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 requires the incoming wiring be routed to the EMS and then wired out of the EMS to the breaker box. Is there likely to enough slack in the existing cable coming into the breaker to feed into the EMS if its located immediately above the breaker box? I assume I'd use an appropriately sized pigtail from the EMS back to the breaker.

Randy in Florida

 

[JohnDar]

Hard to say. Depending on just how tight the work area is, you might want to buy a couple of feet of 6/3 w/g cabling to make it easier. That small amount won't break the bank and should be available at any HD or Lowe's. Worst case, go to an electrical supply company.

 

[jnbhobe]

Randy get a 5ft piece of 6/4 so or sjo cable, very easy to work with.

 

[floridarandy]

Jon and John - are you suggesting that its possible to "splice" into the existing cable before it enters the EMS? I know that i'll have to add a "patch" between the EMS and the breaker box but this patch seems like a hard connections. Its the possiblity of the "splice" that concerns me.

Randy

 

[cookie]

Your not going to have to make an actual 'splice'.
You will just remove the wire from the main breaker terminals and attach it to the EMS terminals.
Then you will take you newly purchsed 6/3 w/ground and attach that cable to the breaker terminals, where you removed the first cable from, and the other end to the EMS.
Hope this clears it up some.

Peace
Dave

 

[JohnDar]

In a nutshell, if there is enough slack in the line from the outside shore connection to the breaker panel, then you could cut the cable and install the suppressor using the end from the breaker panel as the output side and the shore line end as the input. If there isn't enough cable slack to make it easy to do, then you'll need to disconnect the shore line from the breaker panel and use that as the input into the suppressor and use the extra cable you buy to connect the output of the suppressor to the breaker panel.

Initially, I had the dealer install mine (didn't know better and it was before taking possession). Anyways, they put it right behind the breaker panel, which in my rig is under a kitchen cabinet and not very accessible. So I decided to move it. I removed the short piece they used to connect it to the breaker panel and used a longer section of 6/3 w/g NM cable I had left over from installing a subpanel in my garage for my power tools.

So, until you actually get in there and play with that wire, it's hard to tell if you'll have enough slack to be able to easily "splice" it in. It's also fairly stiff, so it might be easier to add the extra wire rather than fight the stuff.

 

[boatto5er]

By the way, try to avoid doing this on a really cold day. The cables get stiffer and less pliable as the temperature goes down. Makes it really hard to make the connections inside the EMS box. Don't ask how I know...😩


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[jnbhobe]

What Dave said. The so or sjo is real flexible.

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[floridarandy]

ok...one last dumb (non electrical guy) question. if there isn't sufficient slack from the outside shore connection to run to the new EMS box do i splice onto the incoming shore connection or use some type of mounting block to connect the shore power to and then run a small length to the EMS? i can't image a splice is in order.

the other side of the ems back to the breaker box should be no issue and there are obviously mounting screws on the outbound side of the EMS and the incoming side of the breaker.

 

[jnbhobe]

trust me Randy there will be plenty of slack
Uu
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[bighorn3370]

I was able to pull enough slack in the cable to install the EMS in my BH. In hindsight, I should have bought wire. It would make it easier to remove the EMS. Ernie

 

[leilers6]

Larry&Ruth: 2011 Greystone 29MK. Just wandered how floridarandy made out? I want to install a SurgeGuard 34560 in my 5'er. It's identical to yours. Was there enough room & any problems? I'm a "has- been;used-to-be welder", not a hot wire guy, but I want to try this one, if I can just keep my "wires straight". I welcome any and all advise and help.

 

[jimtoo]

Hi Larry,

Welcome to the posting side of the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge as you have seen if you have been looking around since January of 2011. Hope you have been and have found lots of useful information.

Hopefully he will come back and give you some info soon.

Enjoy.

Jim M

 

[danemayer]

Hi lellers6,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. As you've already noted, there's lots of useful information here, along with a great bunch of friendly and helpful people.

Good luck on your project. No doubt you'll get some advice pretty soon.


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[mobilcastle]

In my Bighorn there was plenty of slack. I installed mine right behind a basement panel near the inverter-easy to get to. I cut it right into the existing wire-I did not add any new wire. I will say the wire is not easy to work with.Good luck.

 

[scottyb]

I will be installing a PI HW-50C this week. I will be installing it after the ATS, hoping there is enough slack in the line. If not, I have a piece of SO cable. One question I have from those that have installed the same, is concerning the remote read-out. The data cable plugs into the bottom. I was hoping it plugged into the back side where it could be hidden. I'm trying to figure out a way to make a clean installation without exposed wiring. My control panel it mounted on the wall when you walk in the door, and not hidden in a cabinet. I want to mount the read-out nearby. Any ideas?

 

[cookie]

The best I could come up with was to notch one of the switch plates to accommodate the wire.
I did this on both rigs we have owned.
Although mine is in a cabinet, it looks okay.

Peace
Dave

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[mobilcastle]

I put mine in the control panel area-It has a cabinet door with glass that closes over the controls. I can still read the numbers on the remote unit through the glass.

 

[porthole]

Scott, I have the double monitors. You can see mine here.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ins?p=135047&highlight=progressive#post135047

If I was to do it again I would install the EMS so it is a bit easier to remove the cover. I recently had a circuit board go out and it was a bit of a challenge to get back in there.
I added wire on my install. This gave me plenty of "swing" room when positioning the EMS. IIRC I picked up 4' of 6/3 or 6/4. Don't recall if I got the ground insulated.

The "SO" Jon mentions would make handling that wire so much easier.

 

[scottyb]

I put mine in the control panel area-It has a cabinet door with glass that closes over the controls. I can still read the numbers on the remote unit through the glass.

No cabinets for the control panel on Cyclones. They are just flush mounted on the wall.

Scott, I have the double monitors. You can see mine here.

Looks like you made the hole just below the bottom of the display and made a sharp turn out of the plug. I really don't see an option of not having at least a minimal amount of exposed cable. I see what you mean about mounting the EMS where you can remove the front panel. I will keep that in mind, since I have read about needing to bypass the EMS if it fails. I am thinking about making my basement area more accessible using some type of bolts with knobs instead of the wood screws. Seems like that area has alot going on and I could need to get in there quickly, some day.