Need to replace hot water heater

2TrakR

Well-known member
The Suburban 12 gallon hot water heater (specifically the tank) needs replaced in our 2011 Cyclone 3950.
Anyone have thoughts on where to source the part and any tips/tricks to do the replacement?
 

BigJim45

Luv'n Life
The Suburban 12 gallon hot water heater (specifically the tank) needs replaced in our 2011 Cyclone 3950.
Anyone have thoughts on where to source the part and any tips/tricks to do the replacement?

Check on Amazon. They have all kinds.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Amazon is a great resource ($440 delivered). If you're handy and have a helper, it's a pretty simple job. Depending on your floor plan, it might be tight to get to the back side to disconnect some items.
 

2TrakR

Well-known member
Thanks, it's reassuring. It's tight to get access to the rear of the WH, but I've previously changed the water pump which is even further in behind the WH, just need to crawl in the basement and do some contortions.

Doing some research, I'm pretty well talked into going with a tankless unit from Atwood. Only a couple hundred more (also on Amazon, get much of my stuff there too). We normally don't out-run the 12 gallon unit, but we do have a lot of "waiting for it to heat up" since we camp at a variety of locations (bad electric, boondock, etc.) where we can't/won't leave the regular WH on all day.

I think the "instant hot water" will do us more good than the downsides I've read about on the tankless units. Would be nice to have electric and propane instead of just propane with the tankless, but if we don't have to wait for the water to heat up, the electric option isn't that important to us (other than "free hot water" at some of the locations we camp).
 

2TrakR

Well-known member
Ended up with an Atwood tankless unit from Amazon. Changed it out in a couple evenings (1 to remove, 1 to put in). Ordered the larger door cover since the Atwood was designed to fit a 6 gallon "space" and ours was an 12 gallon unit. The larger door/cover includes the extra mounting plate so the unit fully attaches to the larger space.

I had to change the water lines to match up to the new unit, but already had pex line, crimps, tools and such for working on that stuff.

Basement access wall was off, have to take that panel out to get to the HW shut-off valves to winterize anyway. Could reach everything without having to crawl into the basement itself.

Much easier that I had anticipated to change.

So far so good, will see how the unit works this weekend.
 

Skywrench

Full Timer
Ended up with an Atwood tankless unit from Amazon. Changed it out in a couple evenings (1 to remove, 1 to put in). Ordered the larger door cover since the Atwood was designed to fit a 6 gallon "space" and ours was an 12 gallon unit. The larger door/cover includes the extra mounting plate so the unit fully attaches to the larger space.

I had to change the water lines to match up to the new unit, but already had pex line, crimps, tools and such for working on that stuff.

Basement access wall was off, have to take that panel out to get to the HW shut-off valves to winterize anyway. Could reach everything without having to crawl into the basement itself.

Much easier that I had anticipated to change.

So far so good, will see how the unit works this weekend.

Just checking in to see how your tankless water heater is working out.
 
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szewczyk_john

Well-known member
I did not see this post tip now but if you don't mind me asking, What was the reason for needing a replacement in a 2011 cyclone? Even under heavy usage they should last longer than that!
 

2TrakR

Well-known member
Tankless unit works great. 3-5 seconds before hot water comes out the tap on first use, no different than the regular unit.

Still adjusting the shower, it works, but I'm not satisfied with the consistency of the temp. That may be due to shower head pressure/flow or something else (including user error).

One other "downside" is that our faucets are the single lever variety, which often get put into the hot position unintentionally. We thus leave the HW off most of the time so we are not inadvertently kicking propane just for a quick hand washing. Still just a flick of the switch in the panel and it's ready in a sec. If they had separate hot/cold knobs, I'd leave the HW switch on/enabled all the time.

Reason we had to replace ours was due to poor winterizing. Thought I had that drained, but didn't leave the plug out and had enabled the bypass before any pink was introduced. Tank split at the seam.
 

Westwind

Well-known member
I had great service out of my Atwood on my 2002 Sunnybrook TT, easy to care for, no rod to replace. Will be interested to know how you make out with the Tankless unit, a lot of the manufacturers seem to be headed in that direction.
I Sympathize with your pain on how the original needed replacing, I go nuts with the winterizing, especially the Washer/Dryer - so far so good but I expect my luck to run out someday.
Folks who live in warm climates can't relate to this winterizing ordeal.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
I had great service out of my Atwood on my 2002 Sunnybrook TT, easy to care for, no rod to replace. Will be interested to know how you make out with the Tankless unit, a lot of the manufacturers seem to be headed in that direction.
I Sympathize with your pain on how the original needed replacing, I go nuts with the winterizing, especially the Washer/Dryer - so far so good but I expect my luck to run out someday.
Folks who live in warm climates can't relate to this winterizing ordeal.

Yep, Texas style winterizing:

Remove shorts and all but 2 short sleeve shirts.
Replace with jeans and long sleeve shirts
Add a light and medium jacket
Replace flip-flops with shoes

DONE GRIN
 
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