New fridge. Inverter cuts out

[Capt7383]

We had to replace our Frigidaire refrigerator with a Samsung 18 cf. Fridge. The inverter GFI trips when disconnected from shore power. We have the Magnum csw1012 pure sine wave inverter continuous power 1000 watts. Surge for 1 sec. Is 1500 to 2000 watts. The tag on the fridge says 1.1 amps max. Should I assume the inverter is underpowered? Or could the cheapo twin 12 volt batteries that came with the unit be the problem? They don't even have a tag on them,they came with the unit which is a 2014 BC 3070re. Is there any plug and play soft start gizmo out there? The inverter shows 13 volts when hooked to shore power. Any help appreciated I am not an electrician

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[asherwin]

I replaced the original Nevercold with Samsung 19.4 CU. FT. refer and added a 2000W inverter. Have not had any issues. I would suspect your 1000W inverter may be the culprit.

 

[jbeletti]

1.1 amps sounds very low for the max current draw at 110 VAC for that refer. Maybe that's 11.1 amps?

Sounds like the Inverter could be undersized for your choice of replacement refers.

If you can describe "cuts out", others may be able to give you good actionable advice. Also, when it cuts out, what does the inverter display say (error code etc)?

 

[Capt7383]

1.1 amps sounds very low for the max current draw at 110 VAC for that refer. Maybe that's 11.1 amps?

Sounds like the Inverter could be undersized for your choice of replacement refers.

If you can describe "cuts out", others may be able to give you good actionable advice. Also, when it cuts out, what does the inverter display say (error code etc)?

I haven't looked for an error code yet. When I say cuts out I mean the GFI trips on the inverter

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[Capt7383]

1.1 amps sounds very low for the max current draw at 110 VAC for that refer. Maybe that's 11.1 amps?

Sounds like the Inverter could be undersized for your choice of replacement refers.

If you can describe "cuts out", others may be able to give you good actionable advice. Also, when it cuts out, what does the inverter display say (error code etc)?

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[danemayer]

I agree that 1.1 max amps sounds way, way low, especially for startup of the compressor. I would disregard the label. It might be an error, or they might not be talking about startup amps, or who knows what.

A GFCI outlet trips when it detects current leakage in the downstream circuit. If for example 1.1 amps flows out the hot wire and 1.05 amps flows back through the neutral wire, the GFCI assumes the difference is leaking to ground and might be going through your body.

It also could be a bad GFCI on the inverter, but that begs the question of why it started tripping immediately after changing out the refrigerator - if that's when it started. While changing the refrigerator, was anything else in the electrical supply path touched?

I suppose it might also be possible that your 3 year old batteries are worn out and aren't delivering as much power as you need, and perhaps the GFCI circuitry is failing before the inverter throws a low battery error. Original RV batteries on a 2014 rig probably need to be replaced. You can get them load tested at most auto shops or auto parts stores.

I'd start with the battery testing due to their age. If you replace them it won't be a waste of money even if it doesn't help with this problem.

If the problem continues, for about $25 you can purchase a power strip with built in GFCI. Remove the plug that goes into the inverter's GFCI outlet and plug into the power strip. Plug the power strip into an outside power source. With shore power off, see if that resolves the problem. If so, you have a problem with the inverter.

If the GFCI on the power strip trips, something at the transfer switch or refrigerator outlet, or with the new fridge is causing the GFCI trip.

 

[Capt7383]

Thank you all very much. Dan, I will get to work troubleshooting with your ideas

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[Capt7383]

Many thanks to all who replied especially Danemeyer and Rpotter. I replaced the GFCI in the inverter with another 15 amp gfci and viola it works just fine. Now I will see how long the batteries will power the fridge. I may still have to replace batteries if longevity becomes an issue. Magnum must have gotten some weak GFCIs

 

[J.S.B.]

Many thanks to all who replied especially Danemeyer and Rpotter. I replaced the GFCI in the inverter with another 15 amp gfci and viola it works just fine. Now I will see how long the batteries will power the fridge. I may still have to replace batteries if longevity becomes an issue. Magnum must have gotten some weak GFCIs

Just the info I needed to confirm the hunch I had about the GFCI being the culprit. About an hours fix and all looks good.

Thanks for the discussion. Roaming around the Colorado Rockies now so really need that circuit doing it's job.

 

[J.S.B.]

Many thanks to all who replied especially Danemeyer and Rpotter. I replaced the GFCI in the inverter with another 15 amp gfci and viola it works just fine. Now I will see how long the batteries will power the fridge. I may still have to replace batteries if longevity becomes an issue. Magnum must have gotten some weak GFCIs

This should be the first post for searching for a solution to the "GFCI continually trips on the Magnum CSW1012 100w inverter" problem. Took about an hour from the time I unlocked to relocking the front hatch. Expense is minimal, the cost of a "GOOD GFCI OUTLET". So far it's been providing perfect service for several test periods. 4 to 6 hours each, except for yesterday afternoon through this morning which ran for a estimated 18 hours, which happened completely by accident. Got busy yesterday with sightseeing and forgot to switch the fridge back to shore power before we went out.

If the GFCI keeps tripping with no Error Codes showing while it's showing good battery voltage.... It's probably the 20 amp GFCI outlet.
I've had GFCI outlets fail on me before and that's how they went. Now and then progressing to fully not being able to hold any load at all.

I spent far more time researching and pondering over info and opinions on many different forums then fixing the problem. Time isn't over so I guess crossing fingers and knocking on wood that it's truly fixed might not be a bad thing. The single most prevalent cure I saw was replacing that nearly $500 unit. As long as you still have a warranty and the time to sit and wait on the part and installation you'll be OK with that. But if your in the middle of the Colorado Rockies, with a move in four days and planning to be wondering the area for the next 3 months with all your stays already reserved, waiting for the unknown might not be so thrilling.

This leaves me wondering how many times these units have been replaced for this issue. How many of the "remanufactured" units have had noting more then an outlet replaced to get them humming along again?

I hope everyone finds a cure that fits their abilities and needs.

Great travels to you all in your adventures.

J

 

[porthole]

If the fridge is plugged into a dedicated outlet behind the unit, why is there even a GFCI in the circuit?

 

[totosparents]

1.1 amps sounds very low for the max current draw at 110 VAC for that refer. Maybe that's 11.1 amps?

Sounds like the Inverter could be undersized for your choice of replacement refers.

If you can describe "cuts out", others may be able to give you good actionable advice. Also, when it cuts out, what does the inverter display say (error code etc)?

I have the very same frig, it draws 1.5 amps, I put an amp probe on it, not sure of the starting amps, but total amps on sticker say's 3.9

 

[LBR]

I have the very same frig, it draws 1.5 amps, I put an amp probe on it, not sure of the starting amps, but total amps on sticker say's 3.9

We have a new Hisense and what the amp draw on the sticker inside vs. what my PI HW50 reads for a draw are way different.

 

[Relayman]

If the fridge is plugged into a dedicated outlet behind the unit, why is there even a GFCI in the circuit?

exactly. seems useless..unless
the gfci is there for liability issues when their inverter is used for a different application.

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[porthole]

exactly. seems useless..unless
the gfci is there for liability issues when their inverter is used for a different application.

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Still shouldn't make a difference with a dedicated refrigerator receptacle.
A CFCI at and behind the fridge is not going to offer any protection anywhere else in the coach.

 

[Relayman]

that's correct. The reason for the GFCI is probably
for liability issues when their inverter is used for a different application, other than an RV reefer outlet, because according to code,
a GFCI outlet is not required for an inaccessible or dedicated
outlet ( such as the refrigerator ). However , since the inverter is located in a compartment
that could possibly be plugged into from the outside...it has the gfci built in.


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[porthole]

So I'm guessing that the fridge is plugged into the inverter receptacle. Makes sense then.

 

[Relayman]

So I'm guessing that the fridge is plugged into the inverter receptacle. Makes sense then.

yes porthole...there is a three prong male plug wired to a terminal strip. this terminal strip is wired into a double-pole throw-over switch, which also has an ac source feeding it as well. That way..when you are on shore power you feed the fridge plug from the normal ac source.
when you are traveling, the throwover switch selects the inverter...where the three prong plugs into the gfci outlet built into the inverter. Soooooo
shore power- no gfci.
battery power ( traveling) - gfci.
hope this helps.
EM1 Kesley Moore aka : relayman

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