Newbie question about removing WDH bars

[BrannonB]

We have a 35’ 4” TT, 2006 F-250 and WHD with chain style tension bars.

I know when backing to remove the friction style anti sway, but I have a question about the bars.

Lets say i back i to a site that is down hill until I reach the actual pad and when I get in position the camper is level, but the tow rig is still on the incline. This seems like it would put tremendous stress on the bars and make it almost impossible to release the bars without the leverage rod either breaking my foot or go flying through the campground. So my question is... do you remove the bars when backing into a steep angle site or do you just block up and raise the front of TT until you can release the tension bars easlily?

Also.... how tight do you run your antisway? The dealer said to use 2 fingers to tighten the on/off lever, but I read to tighten the on/off the whole way and if adjustment is needed to loosen/tighten the tension bolt.

 

[justafordguy]

You will have to play it by ear, if it looks like a very un-level spot it may be easier on you to remove the spring bars first.

Friction type sway bars are useless anyway so it doesn't really matter how tight you have them.

 

[MountainDon]

Not to be too dumb, but what other kind of bars are there?

 

[justafordguy]

Most of the higher end WDHs have anti sway built into their design and don't require the adjustable add-on friction type bars. Take a look at en Equalizer brand hitch online. The website will explain how it works, and I can tell you they work very well.

 

[Todster]

With that long of a tag trailer. Look into a Hensley or pullrite 2.5” hitch. You won’t regret it.


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[BrannonB]

Thanks for the replies, but I’m not looking to replace the hitch just yet. Next weekend will be the maiden voyage of the TT we have. It’s only been pulled from the dealership to home. I’m just curious about the spring bars and steep descent sites.

 

[DaveC6]

I’ve never had a site like you describe, but if so then it would be easier to take the bars off while you are level. As far as the sway bars, they should be tightened down so there are no threads showing on top (i.e. all the way). If you can’t then adjustment is needed. Doing what the dealer describes means they are still “off”. My trailer is about 6” longer than yours and I run 2 sway controls.


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[PondSkum]

I would definitely disconnect the WDH and the sway bars if you are in any situation of off camber maneuvering. I can personally say that if you forget to remove the friction sway bar during rough terrain, it can (and will) break the little ball off the mount when it binds up... Those items are only really necessary for traveling on the road, once you are in a park, driving slowly, and/or backing into your spot, you are safe to disconnect it all to reduce risk of damaging anything. I would also wait until you are out of your camping site, and back on flat, somewhat straight road/pavement before reconnecting it all.

 

[BrannonB]

I’ve never had a site like you describe, but if so then it would be easier to take the bars off while you are level. As far as the sway bars, they should be tightened down so there are no threads showing on top (i.e. all the way). If you can’t then adjustment is needed. Doing what the dealer describes means they are still “off”. My trailer is about 6” longer than yours and I run 2 sway controls.


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i have thought about running 2 sway controls as well. It came with one, I’m pulling it with a lifted F250 on 37” tires. So it alone has a lot of surface area. I’ll try this run next week, it’s only about 50 miles from home with half back road and half interstate travels.

Thanks again to all for the replies.