No Shore Power - Help Please!

wkcox

Member
I have Roadwarrior 415. Just got out of storage, tried to connect to 50amp shore power but no power in camper. Battery and 12 volt system works. Generator works and I hear the transfer switch (Progressive Dynamics Model PD52) click on, and I have 120 volts in camper. I have tested L1 and L2 at 120 volts from power supply and at the end of the cable prior to attaching to camper. The camper is not 2 years old yet, and I am still learning to trouble shoot. I have a trip coming up and I need help. Any ideas?
 

olcoon

Well-known member
I'm no expert by a long shot, especially with electricity. But from what I've learned on the forum, "possibly" you've got a dead battery. Especially since you just got it out of storage, and if you don't have a battery cutoff switch installed. I'm sure you'll get some quality help soon, but in the meantime, if you've got a voltage meter maybe you can check the battery to see how much power it's got.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
See you sure that the power chord is securely attached to the Marinco plug on the trailer?
Twisted on and secured with the screw ring?
Just a thought.

Peace
Dave
 

wkcox

Member
See you sure that the power chord is securely attached to the Marinco plug on the trailer?
Twisted on and secured with the screw ring?
Just a thought.

Peace
Dave

Yep, plug is okay. It seems that power is not getting from the plug to the camper. As I mentioned before, the transfer switch works for the generator, but does not actuate for the shore power. Does that sound like a bad transfer switch? Is there anything between the shore power plug and the transfer switch?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
It sounds like you will need to take the cover off the transfer switch and have a look.
Be sure that the Genny is off and you are unplugged from shore power.
If you are real careful and have confidence in what you are doing you could plug in and check for current there.
You may have a bad connection or the transfer switch itself is shot.
Let us know what you find.

Peace
Dave
 

wkcox

Member
Thanks, Dave. I will. Is there anything else between the transfer switch and the shore line plug?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
No, but you could check the connections on the back side of the Marinco plug.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The transfer switch contactors need 120V on L1 or they won't actuate. So if you're not hearing the contactors fire on shore power, I would guess you're either not getting 120V to L1 on the transfer switch, or the transfer switch has failed on the shore power side.
 

scottyb

Well-known member
Since I've experienced two ATS failures, that's always the 1st thought that passes my mind. If you feel up to it, meter both sides of the ATS. There are 2 x 3 wires in and 1 x 3 out. Meter red(L1) to white(N) and black(L2) to white(N) on all sides. If you have power on both legs going in but nothing coming out, it's a bad ATS. If no power coming in, it could be the marinco, since it is straight wire from there to the ATS.
 

wkcox

Member
The transfer switch contactors need 120V on L1 or they won't actuate. So if you're not hearing the contactors fire on shore power, I would guess you're either not getting 120V to L1 on the transfer switch, or the transfer switch has failed on the shore power side.

Thanks, Dan. L1 measured 118 volts, L2 119 volts at the end of the cable prior to the plug. Do you think that would cause the transfer switch not to actuate?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks, Dan. L1 measured 118 volts, L2 119 volts at the end of the cable prior to the plug. Do you think that would cause the transfer switch not to actuate?

118 wouldn't be the problem. Unplug the power cord, genny OFF, remove the transfer switch cover. Look for heat damage or charring. If there's heat damage, stop. If not, Connect power and very carefully measure voltage on the incoming wires.
There's a wiring diagram on the cover.

If you have 120 (or 118) on the input side but not on the output side, and you don't hear the contactors actuate when plugged in, you have a bad transfer switch.

BE VERY CAREFUL. 220V at 50amps if you touch the wrong places. I use a non-contact voltage tester as much as possible to reduce the danger. Get the $20 tester.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Last edited:

recumbent615

Founding MA Chapter Leader-retired
118 wouldn't be the problem. Unplug the power cord, genny OFF, remove the transfer switch cover. Look for heat damage or charring. If there's heat damage, stop. If not, Connect power and very carefully measure voltage on the incoming wires.
There's a wiring diagram on the cover.

If you have 120 (or 118) on the input side but not on the output side, and you don't hear the contractors actuate when plugged in, you have a bad transfer switch.

BE VERY CAREFUL. 220V at 50amps if you touch the wrong places. I use a non-contact voltage tester as much as possible to reduce the danger. Get the $20 tester.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I agree with Dan on this one but I would do my first testing with a non-contact voltage tester... if you have power on the shore side of the ats and not on the output side it is most likely a failed ATS and at that point I would remove shore power and open the ATS to verify as Dan suggested no fried wires or that the ATS it self is not outwardly compropized before proceeding .. There are no breakers, fuses prior to the ATS - unless you have a Progressive EMS in line with your Shore power. But since you did not mention that I will assume that you do not ...
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Guys, be carefull. I teach occupational health & safety and if you don't have the correct personal protective equipment and a good meter this kind of power can kill someone.

A good meter like Fluke, face shield and proper rubber electrical gloves should be minimum when working with this kind of voltage and amperage. The safety code say anything over 50V you need the above. I know, not practical for personal life, buttttttt!
 

Mizmary

Well-known member
We had a similar issue once, we lost power to half the camper. Everything worked on the generator. We assumed someone had messed with the cable the first time. We unplugged, re-plugged and it fixed itself. Then a while later the power issue came back. We checked everything, including the transfer switch and it seemed fine. (Which was quite the process because we had to pull the fridge and everything put of the basement in that area.

We went through this entire process, including blaming the campground pedestal.

Turned out the plug on the camper was loose. We disconnected all power, reseated the connections in the plug and it has worked since. I think it ended up that one of the wires wasn't stripped far enough back to make a proper connection, or, it had a screw loose. (Maybe it's just me with the loose screw!) I hope I explained that properly.

I'll have hubby answer when he gets a chance. If you need clarification. (I thought I had posted on here about it but I can't find the thread. Oh well.) If you find nothing at the transfer switch you should check there.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
You need to test at the transfer switch now. Also, there may be a yellow lockout laying around somewhere back there with the transfer switch. This will lock the transfer switch in the shore power position. DO NOT FORGET to take the yellow lockout out of the transfer switch before starting the generator.

If you need shore power now and do not want to use your generator, then bypass your transfer switch, until you get another one.

Also do you have a surge protector installed permanently? If the juice you are feeding is wrong, it won't let it get to your breaker box. If your transfer switch test good then you will have to move to your surge protector then breaker box.
 

wkcox

Member
SOLVED! Thanks for all of the help! The transfer switch was bad. The generator side worked fine, but the shore line side was bad. It was stuck in the non-actuated position, so no power was getting out of the switch. It was a PD52 (Progressive Dynamics), and was less than two years old. I put in a TRC 40100, and I hope it lasts longer. I do use a Surge Guard model 34750 power protection when plugged into 50 amp supply. i think the problem occurred while my camper was in storage. I had left it connected to 15 amp 120 volt plug in hopes of keeping the battery charged. Is that okay?
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Wooo Hooo, now you know!!!!!!

SOLVED! Thanks for all of the help! The transfer switch was bad. The generator side worked fine, but the shore line side was bad. It was stuck in the non-actuated position, so no power was getting out of the switch. It was a PD52 (Progressive Dynamics), and was less than two years old. I put in a TRC 40100, and I hope it lasts longer. I do use a Surge Guard model 34750 power protection when plugged into 50 amp supply. i think the problem occurred while my camper was in storage. I had left it connected to 15 amp 120 volt plug in hopes of keeping the battery charged. Is that okay?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
i think the problem occurred while my camper was in storage. I had left it connected to 15 amp 120 volt plug in hopes of keeping the battery charged. Is that okay?
I doubt that's the cause. Lots of people are full timers and the transfer switch is energized year round.
 

recumbent615

Founding MA Chapter Leader-retired
Wkcox,

Was a cause ever found for your issue? Posting the problem without the final solution is not as helpful as the problem with suggested solutions. The final resolution would be greatly appreciated but all who run into a similar issue down the road.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
I think he said the transfer switch was bad!!!!
Wkcox,

Was a cause ever found for your issue? Posting the problem without the final solution is not as helpful as the problem with suggested solutions. The final resolution would be greatly appreciated but all who run into a similar issue down the road.
 
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