Non GFCI outlets not working, HELP

[DJ_Ledoux]

Hello all. I am new to owning a trailer and going through the growing pains.
I have a 2020 Mallard M260 and all of a sudden all my non-gfci outlets have stopped working. I have checked the breakers and none are tripped. I have looked to make sure that there is no tripped GFCI. All of my outlets connected to the main GFCI are functional and clearly marked. I am not electricly inclined but could fix if I knew what I was looking for.
The specific outlets that don't work are all four outlets in the bedroom, the outlet underneath the dining table, and the outlet to plug the television in. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I live in this camper while I'm out of town working.

Thanks

 

[danemayer]

Hi DJ,

First place to check is where your power cord attaches to the RV. If it's not twist-locked into place, you can lose 1 of your 2 power legs, and 1/2 of your outlets and appliances won't get any power.

If that's ok, check the campground pedestal, or ask the campground office to measure the voltage on the receptacle.

If you're using an adapter on your power cord to connect to a 30 amp receptacle, it might have an internal problem.

Let us know what you find.

 

[DJ_Ledoux]

Thanks for the quick response same, I've checked the power connection at the pole and the plug into my camper they are good. I am not using a 50 amp to 30 amp reducer so that takes that out of the question. I am also running a surge protector from the pole to my camper. Everything checks out fine.
I recently checked all the connections to the outlets and they are all tight.
This has me scratching my head

 

[danemayer]

You might have to pull the circuit breaker panel away from the wall and check incoming voltage. Unplug from shore power before handling the panel. Reconnect once the panel is in a safe position to check voltage.

Our Electrical User Guide has descriptions with photos and drawings that may help you run down the problem.

 

[cookie]

You didn't mention how you checked the breakers, but if it was just a visual don't rely on that.
Turn the breakers off then reset to on again.

Peace
Dave

 

[JohnDar]

And look around for electrical junction boxes under slides or in cabinets. Would not be the first time a wire nut came loose and broke a circuit.


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[Flick]

The specific outlets that don't work are all four outlets in the bedroom, the outlet underneath the dining table, and the outlet to plug the television in. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I live in this camper while I'm out of town working.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

The problem will be a simple fix. Finding the problem not so simple. You more than likely have a loose wire. This could be at the breaker (inside your trailer) either the black wire at the bottom of the breaker itself or the white neutral on that circuit. Have to check each 20amp cause you won’t know which one. If those are ok, it’s more than likely in one of the plugs that would be the first in the series. If all the wires in every plug is screwed down properly, you’d have to move to the plugs that work to see if a wire has come loose going to the next plug. Not always easy. Best to flip the main breaker off when searching for a loose wire. Even though a plug appears to be dead, it could have a live wire in it, and of course, that’s what your looking for.

 

[DJ_Ledoux]

Thanks for the insight all, I will be checking all the outlets tonight and will let you know what I find.

 

[carl.swoyer]

You can also check the transfer switch if you have one. On mine I found L1 out of the socket. Put the wire back in and tightened everything up.

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[GK2018]

I know you said you checked all the GFCI but in our Mallard M33 we had the same issue turned out to be a hidden GFCI plug located in the master bedroom I almost lost my mind trying to troubleshoot the problem so basically long story short look for plugins all over the place sometimes they are hard to see/find. I'd recommend tripping all of them with the "test" button and then reset them even if they look good.

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[wdk450]

A non-contact voltage tester (sniffer) can be very handy in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-NCVT-1SEN/100661787


Though, this tester just tests for the live (hot) side of the circuit being present: loss of neutral (white wire) return paths can also shut down an AC outlet. A DVM or "Monkey face" LED indicator might be better.

The RV industry's use of insulation displacement connection AC outlets is a frequent cause of loss of power to outlets. I much prefer standard household screw termination outlets, ESPECIALLY WHERE HIGH CURRENT DEVICES (like electric heaters) ARE GOING TO BE USED. The insulation displacement connector uses a solid metal V into which the connection wires are forced down into. This results in a very small metal surface area connection that is not nearly reliable as screw/metal plate connections. Multiple wires on 1 V connector is especially trouble prone.

I have replaced all of my interior insulation displacement outlets with standard ones. This requires installing an electrical box at each outlet (no big deal).

 

[DanielKp]

I'm having a similar issue did you ever figure out the problem