Our 3010 Modifications
- Thread starter Sniper
- Start date
Sniper
Well-known member
OK, here is the up-date I promised on the exterior LED lights. The company I had ordered from got the issues I had squared away to my satisfaction, and that's a whole other story unto itself. The company can be found at this link: http://www.ledtrailerlights.com/ the item# is MCL32 you'll be asked to specify Red or Amber. These are exact replacements for RV exterior marker lights, and they look fantastic!
The first picture is of the things required to replace the lights. Plus you'll need caulking. (I used white "flex-shot". Works great).
The second picture shows the LED on the left as opposed to the conventional light on the right. Notice the LED has a black and white wire as opposed to two black wires of the conventional. The LED is "polarity" sensitive the black wire is hot and the white wire is ground.
The third picture shows the placement of the "pigtail" connectors and the black and white LED wires to the proper wires on the trailer. (The blue stuff is RTV that I put around the wood that was drilled through at the factory and left unprotected. It just made me feel better to do it
)
The last picture shows the jumper used on the trailer connector to check the lights as I went along. I checked each light after I spliced, but before I crimped each "pigtail" connector, then again before I put flex-shot around them. (measure twice, cut once as they say)
Another tip if your gonna attempt this yourself, when your up top replacing the lights on the the front cap use extreme caution when pulling the wire through the hole. Do not trust the marker light wire to stay in the factory "pigtail" connector. If it were to detach itself the trailer wiring may be sucked into the great void never to be heard from again. I can only imagine the pain of trying to fish a wire through there would be.
The first picture is of the things required to replace the lights. Plus you'll need caulking. (I used white "flex-shot". Works great).
The second picture shows the LED on the left as opposed to the conventional light on the right. Notice the LED has a black and white wire as opposed to two black wires of the conventional. The LED is "polarity" sensitive the black wire is hot and the white wire is ground.
The third picture shows the placement of the "pigtail" connectors and the black and white LED wires to the proper wires on the trailer. (The blue stuff is RTV that I put around the wood that was drilled through at the factory and left unprotected. It just made me feel better to do it
)The last picture shows the jumper used on the trailer connector to check the lights as I went along. I checked each light after I spliced, but before I crimped each "pigtail" connector, then again before I put flex-shot around them. (measure twice, cut once as they say)
Another tip if your gonna attempt this yourself, when your up top replacing the lights on the the front cap use extreme caution when pulling the wire through the hole. Do not trust the marker light wire to stay in the factory "pigtail" connector. If it were to detach itself the trailer wiring may be sucked into the great void never to be heard from again. I can only imagine the pain of trying to fish a wire through there would be.
Last edited:
Sniper
Well-known member
We had it installed by our dealer. Yes it requires welding of the mounting brackets to the frame, and the J-wrap had to be cut as well. Here is the link if you would like more info http://thebigfootleveler.com/
Safe travels.
Sniper
Well-known member
Don't think you can really count this as a "modification", but anyone who owns a 3010 (or at least our model year 3010) probably knows there is no where to lay your TV remote, or glasses when your lying in bed. So without having any command authorization to make a shelf, I came up with this cheapo contraption that works for what I need it for, and don't look to bad. Bought these little office organizer trays at the dollar store. 3-pack for 2 dollars and two large "butterfly clips. I cut out 4 of the plastic dividers on each end of one side, slipped the butterfly clips trough the slots and clipped the contraption to the window valance. TA DA! Place for the remote and my tri-focals. 
porthole
Retired
Sniper
Well-known member
I did and it looks great Duane! However the Commander is still mulling something like that over...LOL
porthole
Retired
Thats the good thing with what I did. Had we not liked it, it slides up and out - the door if necessary
I picked up some fake cherry trim board while in Goshen. I will be attempting something along the bed level to make do as a cup holder. Commander wants a place for a coffee mug.
I picked up some fake cherry trim board while in Goshen. I will be attempting something along the bed level to make do as a cup holder. Commander wants a place for a coffee mug.
Gtoli
Well-known member
Sniper,
I'm really interested in any additional mods you've made as we are looking to pick up our 2011 3010 in the nest week or so. We are going to the dealer tomorrow to inspect the rig and are looking for any suggestions as far as anything specific to the model and year to look for.
I'm really interested in any additional mods you've made as we are looking to pick up our 2011 3010 in the nest week or so. We are going to the dealer tomorrow to inspect the rig and are looking for any suggestions as far as anything specific to the model and year to look for.
Sniper
Well-known member
No additional Mods until spring, I'll be sure to post them. As far as inspection goes if there is a switch make sure you check and see what it does, not just ask what it does. Lower and set up the dinning area in the garage. There should be pins to hold the top queen bed in place if you don't want to lower it as well. Operate the slides. Hook up the water. Operate the Generator and make sure it operates everything especially the AC. Check the ramp door seal when the ramp is closed. It took us about 6 hours to inspect our rig. I was all over that thing. Got up on the roof too just to eye ball sealant. CHECK THE TIRES! Do not go by thread wear. Check the "manufacture date" on them. There will be a 4-digit code the first two digits will be the week, and the last two digits will be the year of manufacture. We replace ours every 3 years regardless of mileage. Inflate pressure to max pressure as stated on sidewall. We also do not leave our ladder mounted on the side (seen countless toy haulers with the ladder smashed) we stow it in the garage flat against the drivers side wall secured with small bungee cords.
You will find a wealth of information here on the forum so use it to your advantage, and share your experiences as well.
We love our 3010! Hope this helps ya some. Good luck, and keep us updated.
You will find a wealth of information here on the forum so use it to your advantage, and share your experiences as well.
We love our 3010! Hope this helps ya some. Good luck, and keep us updated.
pegmikef
Well-known member
I had missed that Duane, that's really cool and looks very functional.
Sniper
Well-known member
Just when I thought I knew what I was going to do next to our Cyclone the Commander says to me last night: "you know before we go on our next trip, your going to put taller facets in both the bathroom and the kitchen don't you?" Which actually sounded more like a directive than a question, does anyone have any recommendations for good, tall, nice looking replacements with out major "hacking" involved? They look like fairly standard facets to me. Thanks for any input.
Safe travels.
Safe travels.
danemayer
Well-known member
Just when I thought I knew what I was going to do next to our Cyclone the Commander says to me last night: "you know before we go on our next trip, your going to put taller facets in both the bathroom and the kitchen don't you?" Which actually sounded more like a directive than a question, does anyone have any recommendations for good, tall, nice looking replacements with out major "hacking" involved? They look like fairly standard facets to me. Thanks for any input.
Safe travels.
On your next Date Night, take the Commander to Home Depot or Lowes to pick out the new faucets.
billyjoeraybob
South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
Just when I thought I knew what I was going to do next to our Cyclone the Commander says to me last night: "you know before we go on our next trip, your going to put taller facets in both the bathroom and the kitchen don't you?" Which actually sounded more like a directive than a question, does anyone have any recommendations for good, tall, nice looking replacements with out major "hacking" involved? They look like fairly standard facets to me. Thanks for any input.
Safe travels.
Most residential faucets will work just remove the ones you want to replace and take them with you to one of the big box stores. Check the spacing and location of the water inputs. Also some residential faucets will require adapters to match up with the pex threaded connectors.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
The key will be the type you have now. In the bath, it's typically a 4" centerset. But if you have the little pullrod to operate a stopper, you probably have 3 holes in the sink. You can verify by looking -- a bit challenging -- if you can use your smartphone to take a pic that is the best.
If you only have two holes instead of 3 you will not be able to use a faucet that only fits a center hole. Also, any faucet that has a pullrod must use the center hole to operate. If you only have 2, you won't be able to use this feature.
For the kitchen, it also depends on what you have. If it is a two handle faucet, likely you only have two holes.
If you only have two holes, you likely can't use a faucet with a center feed or pull-out head, as these typically go down a center hole, and/or use 3 holes.
Consider brands like Phoenix and Dura Faucet if you want to see options for rvs that might work with the holes you have... But be aware they are likely still plastic.
If you want to use standard household faucets, be aware you might be drilling a new hole in the countertop. And who knows what might be in the way. Many have done it and say it's no big deal, but just be aware.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you only have two holes instead of 3 you will not be able to use a faucet that only fits a center hole. Also, any faucet that has a pullrod must use the center hole to operate. If you only have 2, you won't be able to use this feature.
For the kitchen, it also depends on what you have. If it is a two handle faucet, likely you only have two holes.
If you only have two holes, you likely can't use a faucet with a center feed or pull-out head, as these typically go down a center hole, and/or use 3 holes.
Consider brands like Phoenix and Dura Faucet if you want to see options for rvs that might work with the holes you have... But be aware they are likely still plastic.
If you want to use standard household faucets, be aware you might be drilling a new hole in the countertop. And who knows what might be in the way. Many have done it and say it's no big deal, but just be aware.
Hope this helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
farside291
Well-known member
We put Delta high arcs with a brushed finish from Home Depot in both our bathrooms. Threw the cheapo plastic ones in the trash. These Deltas are very nice and you can get your hands under them to wash! Took 10 minutes to install.
