Passenger Tires

[triley2280]

So I have a Dual Cam Reese weight distribution and anti sway system for my Trail Runner 30ODK, which ways 7,200 lbs, if I remember right. I am pulling it with a 2012 F150 with a tow package, rated for 11,000 lbs. When I get around 60 mph my back tires feel like they are hydroplaining and I get some pretty good sway. Going over any bumps at any speed really gets my unit bouncing. I went to the RV dealership where I bought my camper and they said the problem is my truck is equipped with passenger tires and this is the problem. How he explained the weak sidewalls in them makes since, but before I drop a grand on new tires to upgrade to LT tires has anyone else had this issue or have advice if my TV wheels are causing the white knuckle highway adventures?

 

[jimtoo]

That's a whole lot of trailer behind a F150. You need to make sure your hitch is setup correctly first. And of course your salesman will always blame something else, but if your hitch is set right, then I would go for the tires... but a 34' trailer is a lot more than I would tow with a 1/2t ,, even with a tow package.

I'm sure you will get some more opinions also.

Jim M

 

[pegmikef]

Who installed your hitch? Are you sure that it is installed correctly. When I had an Edge TT that weighed about the same loaded that I pulled with a 2010 F150 with the stock tires (the ones that came with the truck) the only time a had any sway was in very heavy cross winds. I experienced very little bounce and then only on very rough roads. I learned that the ball heilght in relation to the trailer ball cup and tongue weight were critical. Check your wd hitch documentation for the ball height and try to maintain your tongue weight at about fifteen percent of the trailer towing weight. My hitch was the EZ Lift 14K LB wd hitch.

 

[MTPockets]

Load distribution in the trailer, if not enough load on the tongue, can cause bounce.

 

[triley2280]

I am pulling a 30' trailer, not 34'. I put my own hitch on. I had expeience putting the hitch on, because I also put one on my parents TT. They pull a 29' TT with an Avalanche with no problems so I would think a 30' being pulled with a beefed up F-150 would be fine. I did have the RV dealers head service man look at the hitch and he said it all looked good.

 

[triley2280]

I am thinking about turning the cam washers on my hitch to lower my ball a bit. Otherwise it is fairly close, maybe 1.5" difference from the front of the trailer to the back.

 

[triley2280]

Pegmike, how do you check the percent of weight on your hitch?

 

[JohnD]

Pegmike, how do you check the percent of weight on your hitch?

Two things . . .

1) You may need to get better tires for your truck!

You need to look at 10-ply truck tires when pulling a big trailer!

Chances are, the tires that came on your truck are not what you need to pull a big, heavy trailer!

Had you purchased a truck with the tow package . . . then you would have them already!

Of course, we know you didn't get the tow package since you had to install the hitch yourself.

2) Just having the WD hitch is not enough . . .

Hitching it up correctly is the key!

One of my former co-workers was telling me how his dad hooked up their trailer when he was a kid . . . and even told me how his dad smashed his foot when unhooking it once while they were up in the mountains camping!

I explained to him how the WD hitch was supposed to be hooked up . . . he then asked his dad . . . and he came back to tell me that his dad told him that the trailer dealership never showed him how to do it right . . . and he had been doing it WRONG for almost 30 years and two different travel trailers!

Thus the broken foot!

So here is the easy lesson . . .

A) Drop the hitch of the trailer on to the ball of the hitch on the tow vehicle and lock to ball . . .

B) Without attaching the WD bars yet . . . crank up the truck (with gas tank full) and trailer until both appear level!

C) Now . . . give it 3 or 4 full cranks up higher than it was when it appeared level, then attach the WD bars and chains and sway control bar!

D) Now, lower the crank and you should be ready to roll!

Footnote: If it still isn't level adjust until you get it right!

The idea is that now your truck and trailer should both be level and towing will now be much more stable since the weight is distributed between frame of the truck and the trailer!

When you get to the campsite or home to unhook the trailer, make sure that you RAISE THE TRUCK AND TRAILER before you release the WD bars and chains (this is where my friend's dad smashed his foot)!

Because if you don't . . . the weight of the truck and the trailer will release itself through the chain connects and will slam the handle down to the ground (which is EXACTLY where your foot will be).

Ooooppssyy . . . there is a #3 . . . and probably the most important issue:

3) Keep your speed at 65MPH or less, otherwise, your trailer will sway despite having the sway bars!

Hope this helps . . .

 

[JohnD]

That's a whole lot of trailer behind a F150. You need to make sure your hitch is setup correctly first. And of course your salesman will always blame something else, but if your hitch is set right, then I would go for the tires... but a 34' trailer is a lot more than I would tow with a 1/2t ,, even with a tow package.

I'm sure you will get some more opinions also.

Jim M

Agreed . . . I have a 2013 Trail Runner 28-Footer and am towing it with a Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 . . . and it is right on the limit of the truck!

I plan on getting a new and bigger truck in the next year or so . . . :

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I am pulling a 30' trailer, not 34'. I put my own hitch on. I had expeience putting the hitch on, because I also put one on my parents TT. They pull a 29' TT with an Avalanche with no problems so I would think a 30' being pulled with a beefed up F-150 would be fine. I did have the RV dealers head service man look at the hitch and he said it all looked good.

triley2280, The overall length of your trailer is 33ft. 11inches. So pretty close to 34 feet. I agree with everyone that your hitch may not be right on the money. Another thing to try. Inflate the tires on your truck to the max cold inflation psi stated on the sidewall of the tires. As you know, this should be done before driving which warms up the tires. Also check the trailer tires for proper inflation. Good Luck & Have fun.

 

[pegmikef]

Pegmike, how do you check the percent of weight on your hitch?

The manufacturer provides the dry tongue weight and I basically estimated and weighed everything that I carried that was of any consequence. Basically, once the propane tanks were installed and full and the two batteries I was pretty close to what I wanted. Then all the other stuff I put in the storage compartments and under the bed (both were in the front) served to offset what was loaded in the other end. The hydroplaning feeling of the rear truck wheels makes me think the trailer is out of balance and the tongue is too light and effectively lifting the truck. If the tongue were too heavy the effect would be for the front end of truck to be lifted and maybe have the hydroplaning sensation. Some people weigh the tongue weight if you have a commercial scale available.

 

[triley2280]

Thank you all for the great advice. I have been tweaking my hitch and it does get better with some changes. And Jim was right, I forgot to factor in the trailer hitch. I am very confident in the truck being able to pull the camper, I just need to have the correct equipment with the correct settings.

I guess my original question never got answered though. Will having P-tires (passenger) on my Tow Vehicle negatively affect the control of my trailer?

 

[Shortest Straw]

I would definitely recommend getting some trailer tires. You will notice the difference. We did that on the fiver we used to own and it does get rid of a lot of the rear end sway.

 

[JohnD]

I guess my original question never got answered though. Will having P-tires (passenger) on my Tow Vehicle negatively affect the control of my trailer?

I answered it in one of my above posts . . .

You need to get 10-ply truck tires on your truck when you are pulling a heavy trailer.

Passenger car tires on your truck while towing will cause sway . . . and most likely flat tires on the truck eventually.

 

[brainpause]

I had similar issues when we first got the Starcraft.

First, I fiddled and fiddled with the WD hitch (Equalizer) until the front axle of my truck weighed virtually the same loaded or unloaded, as measured by a CAT truck stop scale. That helped some. Before going to the scale however, I adjusted the hitch by measuring at the top of the front and rear wheel wells (unloaded and then loaded), and got the amount of compression about the same.

I tried replacing the stock shocks next, although they had less than 20,000 miles or so on them. It helped a little, but not much to speak of.

What finally really did the trick was putting 10-ply BF Goodrich Rugged Trail tires on the truck. I was ready to drop the cash for a ProPride hitch if that didn't work.

I also stopped lubricating the hitch and bars, probably adding a little friction to the setup. Ha!

 

[pegmikef]

I also stopped lubricating the hitch and bars, probably adding a little friction to the setup. Ha!

That is interesting because EZ-Lift specified that the torsion bars and hitch ball should be lubricated with a high grade grease. The torsion bar sockets on the hitch had grease zits built into them. I know everything worked a lot better after I started the lubrication in accordance with the hitch documentation that I downloaded.

 

[Silverado23]

So I have a Dual Cam Reese weight distribution and anti sway system for my Trail Runner 30ODK, which ways 7,200 lbs, if I remember right. I am pulling it with a 2012 F150 with a tow package, rated for 11,000 lbs. When I get around 60 mph my back tires feel like they are hydroplaining and I get some pretty good sway. Going over any bumps at any speed really gets my unit bouncing.

This sounds like your Over adjusted with too much weight being transferred to the front axle. This would essentially lift the weight off the rear axle and create the feeling that your getting. LT tires may help with excess bouncing but adjusting the hitch would probably be the less expensive route to try first.

Although this manual is for the Equal-I-zer hitch, It does have a good general description on what is happening and how to correct the situation. You would also want to read your own hitch manual for specific details on making the actual hitch adjustments. Starting on Page 18 of the manual is the description of the over/under weight distribution situation and can help you figure out how to correct it. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf



Come over to the Iowa Chapter rally in June or PM me and I would be happy to help you figure this out.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...0-2014-to-6-22-2014/page2?p=338988#post338988

 

[caissiel]

P tires are for passenger comfort only. LT tires are for light trucks. I would not hook a travel trailer on a truck without proper tires. If bouncy its the rear suspension that needs to be addressed. I had a 1/4 ton Ranger that had better springs then an other 1/2 ton GM. Now figure.

Sent from my LG-LS720 using Tapatalk

 

[triley2280]

My family has been talking about making a trip to Adventureland. We need to look at dates. How many people make these gathering and what of people show; families, retired, etc?

 

[cookie]

My family has been talking about making a trip to Adventureland. We need to look at dates. How many people make these gathering and what of people show; families, retired, etc?

Triley2280, I am not quite sure what you are asking. I would like to move your post to the appropriate forum, as this one is about tires and wheels.
It sounds like you are wanting to take a trip or attend a rally.
Could you clarify please?

Peace
Dave