I don't think Rejex is more difficult to apply and remove than any other product. Apply, wait 15/20 minutes and wipe or buff off. It can be used on decals and was originally made for use on aircraft. Nothing sticks better than a 200 mph bug and they just hose off with Rejex. LOL
For those with oxidation on front and rear caps (2011 models mostly). The problem is in the coating that was applied and short of removing and painting (which I did) it will not go away. As I understand it, this was not a Heartland issue alone.
I have a 2011 with the severe oxidation on the nose cap and called HL about it a while ago. Per their rep, HL considers this oxidation "acceptable degradation" (their words). Estimates to repair this issue (basically, cleaning and repainting the nose cap) are in excessive of $5,000 (from the old Greystone forum).
I've washed that nose cap using of number of cleaners, e.g., Simple Green, Spic and Span, etc., and it has done nothing. I might try the orbital buffer when the weather warms a bit.
$5,000.00 is way out of line. I was quoted $800.00 to paint my rear cap by a shop close to the Amana Rally in IA when i was there last Fall. I'm dropping it off there in the Spring to get it done...DonI have a 2011 with the severe oxidation on the nose cap and called HL about it a while ago. Per their rep, HL considers this oxidation "acceptable degradation" (their words). Estimates to repair this issue (basically, cleaning and repainting the nose cap) are in excessive of $5,000 (from the old Greystone forum).
I've washed that nose cap using of number of cleaners, e.g., Simple Green, Spic and Span, etc., and it has done nothing. I might try the orbital buffer when the weather warms a bit.
Hi Just4play,Buff Magic, best stuff on the market for oxidation. I used it on my boat that was very heavy oxidation and made it look new.
Buff Magic, best stuff on the market for oxidation. I used it on my boat that was very heavy oxidation and made it look new.