I am seeking advice on how to run power for a second ac unit on a 2023 Heartland Trail Runner 27RKS. The trailer has 50amp hookup, it doesn't seem to have been pre wired for another ac. I also do not know what the labeling means in the breaker panel. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Power for second ac unit
- Thread starter Shoe1963
- Start date
If you have 50 Amp service then there is a good chance that you are wired for a second AC. Your breaker panel appears to have a breaker for a second AC.
If you have a 14x14 vent in the ceiling of the bedroom you will need to remove the inside shroud and look for a piece of romex cable, probably terminated in a plastic box.
If you find that you should be good to go on installing a forward AC.
Peace
Dave
If you have a 14x14 vent in the ceiling of the bedroom you will need to remove the inside shroud and look for a piece of romex cable, probably terminated in a plastic box.
If you find that you should be good to go on installing a forward AC.
Peace
Dave
wdk450
Well-known member
I noted that the breaker labelled "AC1" is a 20 amp breaker, where the breaker labelled "AC2" is a 15 amp breaker. Both AC units are usually identical, so would need the same size breakers. Also, air conditioning breakers are a special HACR type, with a longer delay before tripping.
HACR (Heating/Air Conditioning/Refrigeration) rating — It can handle a brief surge in amperage that's required for a compressor or other devices to start.
Both air conditioners should NOT be both connected to the same feed phase to balance the electrical loading. On my breaker box, the 2 phases feed every other breaker. That is, looking at the breakers left to right you have phase A, B, A, B, A, B and so forth .
HACR (Heating/Air Conditioning/Refrigeration) rating — It can handle a brief surge in amperage that's required for a compressor or other devices to start.
Both air conditioners should NOT be both connected to the same feed phase to balance the electrical loading. On my breaker box, the 2 phases feed every other breaker. That is, looking at the breakers left to right you have phase A, B, A, B, A, B and so forth .
jerryjay11
Well-known member
If so, then the 20-amp breaker appears to have the microwave on it. Got the feeling that at least the first 4 breakers are mislabeled. And aren't RV AC units typically 115 volts? I do realize some may be 240 volts, but most are 115V from my experience.
SeanMacGerailt
Member
Good info here. I am also planning to add a second AC unit, to my garage. I haven't pulled the vent fan yet to verify the power wire is there, but like the OP showed, I have a 50 amp setup, and a "2nd AC" breaker, so I expect it is there.
Question is, when adding the 2nd unit, what is typically done for a thermostat for on/off and temp setting? Could control it on the unit itself, but since the ceiling is pretty high, a wall mount would be better. I can, of course, run a wire, just wondering if that pre-wire that as well.
The main unit in the living area has one of those Dometic t-stats that I'm not in love with. Tried to replace it with a Honeywell, but it appears they designed it so you're stuck with theirs.
Question is, when adding the 2nd unit, what is typically done for a thermostat for on/off and temp setting? Could control it on the unit itself, but since the ceiling is pretty high, a wall mount would be better. I can, of course, run a wire, just wondering if that pre-wire that as well.
The main unit in the living area has one of those Dometic t-stats that I'm not in love with. Tried to replace it with a Honeywell, but it appears they designed it so you're stuck with theirs.
jerryjay11
Well-known member
What makes you stuck with the Dometic?
If not mistaken, a T-Stat is a T-Stat. As long as you replace with a same number wire T-Stat and follow the instructions to install it. Just count the number of wires, noting the color codes for wiring the new one.
If not mistaken, a T-Stat is a T-Stat. As long as you replace with a same number wire T-Stat and follow the instructions to install it. Just count the number of wires, noting the color codes for wiring the new one.
jerryjay11
Well-known member
I was under the impression t-stat had to be 12-volt DC or battery powered. That's according to an article I read. I'll have to dig deeper. Never had to replace one so I may need some studying just in case.
SeanMacGerailt
Member
Correct, this is the issue. These apparently have some form of communication to the unit. Not the simple switching of a call for AC or heat like the typical t-stat. My issue with the Dometic is that it allows too much temperature swing. I have resolved this on other RV's by swapping to a Honeywell digital t-stat that keeps the deadband tighter. Could not find any info in the manual or online about settings for this on the Dometic.
Anyone have thoughts on my original question?
