Pull Test, Tug Test or No Test?

[HornedToad]

When I bought my first fifth wheel I remember the tech during the PDI stressing the importance of a "Pull Test" when hitching. He walked me through how to raise the landing gear 6 to 8 inches after hooking up and to drive forward a few feet to make sure the hitch is connected. He explained that if the trailer came off the hitch it would fall on the landing gear and wouldn't damage the bed of the truck. I've religiously done this "Pull Test" every time I hook up, sometimes to the dismay of experienced campers... "What are you doing that for??? or Screaming at me that I'm driving off with my landing gear down!!!

When I got a new trailer with the level up I had concerns about continuing this pull test as one side of the front landing gear would raise up all the way before the other would lift the 6 to 8 inches and I was worried about the trailer dropping with just one front leg extended. Also, I have a B&W hitch that I've read the jaws are supposed to latch from the weight of the trailer even if the handle is not closed.

I've been following a thread about which wheel chocks are best and it seems that some leave their trailer "chocked" and do a "Tug Test" instead of a "Pull Test".

Should I continue my "Pull Test", change to a "Tug Test", or forgo both to a "No Test"???

 

[jjriker]

I don't know which test might be "better" but we also do a pull test every time we hitch up.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Mike,

We have a Hensley BD3 hitch and the trailer has 4 point auto leveling. After hitching up I always do a pull test with the front jacks about 2 inches off the ground (sometimes a bit more depending on how level the ground is). 2 inches ensures if there's a fail, the jacks will catch the trailer before 1) there's a lot of downward acceleration increasing the force of impact, and 2) the trailer stops before it hits the bed rails of the truck.

My front landing gear usually retract at about the same rate (but extend one at a time until resistance is met). Sometimes I have blocks under the jacks and have to retract enough to remove the blocks, extend to touch the ground, and then retract to raise them both 2 inches.

For anyone who has a Hensley BD3 or TS3 hitch, looking to see if the jaws are closed is good, but not sufficient. Looking to see if the release handle has moved to the rear position is good, but not sufficient. The locking block on the front side of the hitch MUST have moved into the locking position. If you're not checking this block, you're one hitch-up away from a disaster. After I'm certain the hitch is closed and locked, then I do the pull test just in case I missed something, or in case something on the hitch has failed.

And yes, I have had people start shouting at me - generally because they think I've forgotten to retract the landing gear.

 

[Wharton]

We don't do any test. We hitch up, check that the jaws are closed and the handle locked, we then put a Master lock through the handle and pull away. We have followed this procedure for 15 years and never a problem.

 

[Lynn1130]

I leave the chocks on the wheels and the landing gear down. This prevents the trailer from moving forward and bending the landing gear or sliding the trailer on the pavement. I then put the truck in gear with my foot on the brake and let the truck idle as I take my foot off of the brake. If the hitch is not connected properly the truck will move away from the pin and the trailer will not drop at all since the gear are still down. No damage to truck, or trailer landing gear. Oh, forgot. I used the manual lever on the brake controller to apply full brakes to the trailer.

 

[GMCaddic]

Do the tug test that is what will put pressure on the 5th wheel jaws to make sure they are closed. I put my trailer brake up to 8 or 9 to make sure my trailer brakes are set before I tug.
I would not lift my landing legs up to test because then you run the risk of dropping the trailer on the landing gear and jamming them. My Reese 5th wheel hand book
recommends doing the tugs test also.

 

[Bones]

I do a tug test with the landing gear barely off the ground. No different than a semi truck. All-ways check and double check to make sure those jaws have locked as well as the pull handle.

 

[Jim.Allison]

There are so many thing that you are managing when hooking up and we all do a good job at hooking up, but a set of yellow and red laminated cards on a key ring could be clipped to the safety brake cable upon setup, in this manner you could not overlook them when hitching up. You could begin with Black and grey water drained, power cord, Tv cable, hose and sewer hose stowed, (in my case on the BD3) hitch jaws closed and locked, 7 pin connected, safety brake connected, wheel chocks stowed, landing gear slightly raised, pull test, retract landing gear, ensure all landing gear and 6 point raised and in travelling position, tail light test. and of course the infamous TV antenna down check, compartment closed and locked, entry door closed and locked.

IMHO all this combined is the whole pull test. I don't know for sure but just looking at the list, I would say you have a very high likelihood of getting snuffed on anyone of those items. The accidental trailer unhitching being the worst and most expensive single event.

 

[ILH]

I've had my trailer drop on my truck - even after checking the jaws. I religiously do the tug test, using the trailer's brakes and the legs retracted a few inches off the ground.

You only have to have your trailer drop once and you'll always be paranoid.

 

[Jim.Allison]

I have never dropped mine but I check and double check it and pull test.

I've had my trailer drop on my truck - even after checking the jaws. I religiously do the tug test, using the trailer's brakes and the legs retracted a few inches off the ground.

You only have to have your trailer drop once and you'll always be paranoid.

 

[pegmikef]

I don't do a pull test as I am concerned about damaging my hydraulic landing gear, but always triple check the lock! I have the Reese Elite hitch and it uses a pair of flags to verify that the jaw is closed and the pin can be inserted (I use a lock). If the jaw is not closed, the pin cannot be inserted. I also verify the jaw is closed after the pin (lock) is inserted.

 

[ramdually4100king]

I do a tug test with the landing gear 1/2" up, 100% trailer break engaged with the tires still chalked. I've seen what happens to trucks and trailers after a drop and it does not do anything to the looks of either.

 

[VKTalley]

When I got a new trailer with the level up I had concerns about continuing this pull test as one side of the front landing gear would raise up all the way before the other would lift the 6 to 8 inches and I was worried about the trailer dropping with just one front leg extended. Also, I have a B&W hitch that I've read the jaws are supposed to latch from the weight of the trailer even if the handle is not closed.

I've been following a thread about which wheel chokes are best and it seems that some leave their trailer "chocked" and do a "Tug Test" instead of a "Pull Test".

Should I continue my "Pull Test", change to a "Tug Test", or forgo both to a "No Test"???

Mike, We have the 6-point leveling system on our Big Country, and YES, we pull test every time we hitch up even though our hitch has a visual indicator that tells you that you are hitched. I am the one who sets up for the pull test by
First, raising all the leveling jacks and removing the chalks (if we are on a level site).
Second, manually lower the front two jacks until the door side jack is a couple of inches of the ground and then raise the off door side jack up a couple inches.
Third, signal Malcolm that everything is ready for pull test and watch test.
Fourth, manually retract front jacks after test is completed.
I'd rather take 5 minutes or more extra time on hitch up to avoid dropping the trailer on the truck bed....as I tell people who are watching, "5 minutes to check vs. thousands of dollars damage." I have not had one person disagree with me on that one.

 

[Jimsryker]

Wow, I've never done the "tug" test. I've always verified that the Pullrite handle slams shut and then visually make certain I can see the gate encompassing the pin. I will however be adding this test to my pre-flight checks. I have to admit that I'm nervous about the landing gear. Hitching up always seems to put a bit of stress on them no matter how easy I try to complete the coupling. Those legs are aluminum and seem fragile.

 

[Jim.Allison]

I dont see how you guys think that your landing gear is being stressed. Am I overlooking something?

 

[2psnapod2]

I dont see how you guys think that your landing gear is being stressed. Am I overlooking something?

I believe they think that having the legs completely on the ground will stress the legs as it tries to pull the RV forward. I raise mine a inch or so then give it a tug. Pull it forward and back up also. Don't forget to also do a light check to ensure your lights are working.

 

[chiefneon]

When I bought my first fifth wheel I remember the tech during the PDI stressing the importance of a "Pull Test" when hitching. He walked me through how to raise the landing gear 6 to 8 inches after hooking up and to drive forward a few feet to make sure the hitch is connected. He explained that if the trailer came off the hitch it would fall on the landing gear and wouldn't damage the bed of the truck. I've religiously done this "Pull Test" every time I hook up, sometimes to the dismay of experienced campers... "What are you doing that for??? or Screaming at me that I'm driving off with my landing gear down!!!

When I got a new trailer with the level up I had concerns about continuing this pull test as one side of the front landing gear would raise up all the way before the other would lift the 6 to 8 inches and I was worried about the trailer dropping with just one front leg extended. Also, I have a B&W hitch that I've read the jaws are supposed to latch from the weight of the trailer even if the handle is not closed.

I've been following a thread about which wheel chokes are best and it seems that some leave their trailer "chocked" and do a "Tug Test" instead of a "Pull Test".

Should I continue my "Pull Test", change to a "Tug Test", or forgo both to a "No Test"???

Howdy!

I absolutely do a pull test. I have a TS3 TrailerSaver hitch and have had the jaws not lock properly. I have the six point leveling system. I manually raise the four rear jacks. I then hook up and manually raise the front. This will cause the curbside jack to come all the way up first. Once it is up the roadside jack starts up and I stop it when it is up a few iniches, then press the switch to go down again and the curbside jack will go down and I stop it a few, inches off the ground. This keeps both jacks about the same length off the ground when you do the pull test. Once I do my test I use the same switch located under my fifthwheel to manually raise both jacks.

"Happy Trails "
Chiefneon

 

[2psnapod2]

I failed to say that I have a "Bed Saver" on my TS3 and still do a test.

 

[Jim.Allison]

Oh......I get it, yes take the weight off the landing gear and use electric brake to provide resistance. Its just a tug anyway.

I believe they think that having the legs completely on the ground will stress the legs as it tries to pull the RV forward. I raise mine a inch or so then give it a tug. Pull it forward and back up also. Don't forget to also do a light check to ensure your lights are working.

 

[TandT]

I have always gently pulled against my rig with the landing gear still down, after hitching up. If there is a problem, I want my landing gear still on the ground. Then I visually check to see that my single wrap around hitch jaw is engaged. My Reese hitch also has a locking pin that will not drop in, if the trailer pin is not fully engaged in the hitch.

After raising the landing gear, I hit my manual brake box lever one more time and pull, to make sure my trailer brakes are functioning. Trace