Questions about parking and arrivals

[ericandalice]

Driving the new BC 3690 is pretty easy. We were pleasantly surprised.

We're still learning to back up.

We had a bit of a scare earlier and I knew you guys would be able to offer suggestions. Long story short, we tried a state park. The drive in was ridiculously curvy and steep. Not too much of a problem because luckily no one was coming down the mountain. Raining cats and dogs didn't help. But the truck handled like a beaut.

Eric did a tremendous job of backing it into the biggest spot they had( thankfully it had stopped raining at that point.) Unfortunately, the spot appeared more level than it was and when I hit auto level we ended up with a few feet in the air and one foot sliding on wet pavement. To say I was terrified is an understatement.

We hooked up, tried a different space, but before we could get half way in, my nerves had had enough. We left. It's a first come first serve park, so nothing lost except a few years off my life.

We found a different campground a little closer to home. Parked in a pull through (whew) that seems more level. We had no problems leveling last night (different park.)

But our first night (in a very level dealer lot) and tonight it seems to be unlevel to the front left. The rig thinks its level but how much can I trust that? Do you often manually adjust after its done it's thing?

Once you pull into your space, what do you do after you unhook? Put down the rest of the levelers? Put out your chocks? (how many chocks do you use btw?) Put out the slides? For some reason I feel like putting out the slides might unlevel things. But remember, I had a bit of a scare.

Also, is it normal, when you have 6 points down, to feel a little wiggle in the 5er when you walk? Is it okay? Last night and the night before I didn't feel anything but solid. Today, maybe I'm just a little more sensitive and the spot is different of course.

We're having dinner and I'm having a much earned glass of wine. headed home tomorrow to see our fur babies.

 

[GOTTOYS]

ALWAYS! Chock the wheels before you unhitch and don't remove them until you re-hitched. Use as many as you need to make you sure it can't move. You don't want the trailer rolling away....What you do after that can be done in any order you want...Don

 

[danemayer]

Hi Alice, I don't have all the answers for you but maybe can offer a few comments:

We have the 4 point auto-level and have had some difficulty on very unlevel setups where it just won't or can't get level with all 4 pads on the ground. One tip is to get a set of leveling blocks to reduce the extension of the jacks on the low side/end. There have been a few times where I just went to manual mode to get it level. Manual mode is your friend - don't be afraid to use it.

If you think when the levelup finishes that the rig is not level, it's probably not. The device has a calibration procedure where you get it level, as measured with carpentry levels, and then calibrate the computer. Thereafter, it should level correctly. You might want to have the dealer do this next time you're in for service. I had to have mine calibrated and was thinking about doing it myself, but Lippert has several slightly different button sequences that have been published, and I was reluctant to find out what happens if you use the wrong sequence. If you let the dealer calibrate, check it before you leave in case they're sloppy.

The 4 point system with stabilizers in the rear is probably less stable than the 6 point you have and we're very stable except with the washer in spin mode, which does shake the rig a bit. I carry the scissor-jack type of clamps that go between the wheels and use them instead of chocks. That provides additional stability since it locks the wheels to one another. A lot of times I don't even bother with putting one in and rarely use both.

My sequence is to 1) unhook, 2) level and put down the stabilizers 3) add the scissor-jacks to the doorside wheels, 4) push the slides.

You'll get comfortable with all of this pretty quickly.

 

[SouthernNights]

Ericandalice,

You are trying to get familiar with A LOT of things at one time and with all the new stuff to learn it can be pretty unnerving. But hang in there, you will get used to it.

Do what Don says, ALWAYS chock first.

As far as your rig feeling feeling not level, it probably isn't. Ours was 4" out front to back with the nose being low. Get one or two torpedo levels and a 4' level-or believe it or not, download a free bubble level on your phone... They have an APP for that!!! (always wanted to say that.) The app is pretty cool though because you can lay the phone down and the bubble level works 360 degrees at one time.

Anyway, check the fridge, (you can put a level on the fridge fascia for a straight edge, check your counter top and check you floor with the 4' level. The fridge is very important that it operates in a level position. If the unit feels comfortable to you it will probably be good for the fridge. Sometimes the counter tops are not exactly parallel with the floor-it's ok, go with the floor then. Check the floor in several places both width wise and length wise. You might even have to find a happy medium between several different places when you begin to level the rig.

If your rig is off, here is the Lippert manual on how to recalibrate the trailer. http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/...ling_5th_Wheel_Operation_&_Service_Manual.pdf

You should also have the same thing in your paperwork that came with the coach. I have done it several times before getting it to "feel" just right. It is very easy do to and once you have done it you will gain more confidence with the system.

Here is the same instructions that the above link will bring you to. Please note the bottom instruction in case something is not going right.!


ZERO SETTING THE CONTROL


1. Put unit in manual mode, see MANUAL OPERATION, HYDRAULIC above .
2. Level the unit using a reference level on a flat surface.
3. When unit is level, turn the touch panel “OFF.”
4. Push the “FRONT” button quickly 10 times, then the “REAR” button 10 times.
5. The panel will flash all the lights and beep.
6. To memorize the level condition, push the “RETRACT” button 3 times
7. The WAIT light will flash for approximately 20 seconds.
8. When the “WAIT” light goes out level is set.
9. Push “ON/OFF” button to shut the system off.


STOPPING OR ABORTING AN OPERATION
1. Push “ON” button on the touch panel to stop or abort any operation.


We also have the 4 point leveling systems Dan . Sometimes it seems to have a mind of its own but eventually I am sure things will settle down. None of the issues I have have impeded the system from working when setting up though. Since I recalibrated the system, it is a wonderful thing. You will get used to whether or not you need blocks under the jacks and how many. If the site is too far out of level front to back or side to side, sometimes you have to help the jacks with some blocks because the stroke on the jack is not long enough to compensate for the site. Once again-with time and experience it will become easy. i think you guys did right the thing at the state park. If you find one site difficult, find another site or cg.

Our 4 point is pretty solid but don't forget-the "feeling" of solid changes with each person and these things do not have foundations. The more weight you put on the jacks, the less bounce you will have but you will never remove 100% of the movement.

 

[SouthernNights]

Ok, my edit button doesn't seem to be functioning right now.

I meant to say, We also have the 4 point leveling system LIKE Dan's. Also , if Dan is right about multiple button sequences, just call Lippert give them the last eight of your VIN and let them give you the correct sequence .

I don't know where you are in GA, but if you would like and can get a site, several of us are meeting at Cane Creek Park in Waxhaw NC next weekend. You are welcome to join us
http://co.union.nc.us/QualityofLife/ParksRecreation/CampingArea.aspx

 

[ericandalice]

ALWAYS! Chock the wheels before you unhitch and don't remove them until you re-hitched. Use as many as you need to make you sure it can't move. You don't want the trailer rolling away....What you do after that can be done in any order you want...Don

That's what I started doing. Back in. Stop. Chock. Then unhook. We bought four. But hey, if we need more, I'll get more. Glad to see I'm doing that part right.

 

[ericandalice]

Hi Alice, I don't have all the answers for you but maybe can offer a few comments:

We have the 4 point auto-level and have had some difficulty on very unlevel setups where it just won't or can't get level with all 4 pads on the ground. One tip is to get a set of leveling blocks to reduce the extension of the jacks on the low side/end. There have been a few times where I just went to manual mode to get it level. Manual mode is your friend - don't be afraid to use it.

If you think when the levelup finishes that the rig is not level, it's probably not. The device has a calibration procedure where you get it level, as measured with carpentry levels, and then calibrate the computer. Thereafter, it should level correctly. You might want to have the dealer do this next time you're in for service. I had to have mine calibrated and was thinking about doing it myself, but Lippert has several slightly different button sequences that have been published, and I was reluctant to find out what happens if you use the wrong sequence. If you let the dealer calibrate, check it before you leave in case they're sloppy.

The 4 point system with stabilizers in the rear is probably less stable than the 6 point you have and we're very stable except with the washer in spin mode, which does shake the rig a bit. I carry the scissor-jack type of clamps that go between the wheels and use them instead of chocks. That provides additional stability since it locks the wheels to one another. A lot of times I don't even bother with putting one in and rarely use both.

My sequence is to 1) unhook, 2) level and put down the stabilizers 3) add the scissor-jacks to the doorside wheels, 4) push the slides.

You'll get comfortable with all of this pretty quickly.

Dan, I don't believe that. You have answered every question I've asked you!

I'll admit I'm scared of the leveling blocks. At the state park, the actual ground beneath the jack feet (circles on the ground) was at an angel. That's why one of the feet slipped on the pavement. The idea of putting leveling blocks on the ground, then putting the jacks down on that type of surface makes me uncomfortable. I could be totally wrong, but it feels like the weight of the rig would slide right off the blocks.

The folks around us tonight are using one or more blocks, put the pad they're on seems perfectly level.

We have the air conditioners on right now and oh my goodness. I'm getting a little sea sick. I might have to go sit outside. This is our first night with them on. So there's that to get used to. But also, I didn't feel so much movement as we were walking around before. So I can't figure out what we did differently/wrong tonight. And I'm hoping we didn't mess up something on the frame when the right did her tap dance on four jacks.

 

[archbarb]

Larry, do you happen to remember the name of the app for the bubble level?
Barb

 

[ericandalice]

Ericandalice,


Our 4 point is pretty solid but don't forget-the "feeling" of solid changes with each person and these things do not have foundations. The more weight you put on the jacks, the less bounce you will have but you will never remove 100% of the movement.

Yes, you're right. I'm pretty sensitive to movement.

I came and sat outside. I still feel like I'm moving, so it must be nerves.

 

[ericandalice]

Larry, do you happen to remember the name of the app for the bubble level?
Barb

I just downloaded free iPhone app called water level. It seems to work. It confirmed my suspicion that we're a smudge off level. But I only checked the carpet in the living room.

 

[SouthernNights]

Larry, do you happen to remember the name of the app for the bubble level?
Barb

Archie, on Droid it is call Bubble Level. here is the link. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.androgames.level&hl=en

 

[danemayer]

Alice, this is the type of wheel chock I'm talking about. This particular set is pretty expensive, but illustrates what I'm talking about. Once you tighten them between the wheels, the only way the rig will slide is if it's on mud - the wheels won't rotate. I don't like wedge type of chocks because they don't seem to always grip the ground reliably - the trailer can move before they settle. So with the wheels secure, the landing pads aren't going to come off of leveling blocks. (There may be wedge chocks that work better, but you might have to experiment before finding one that is secure enough - and experiments sometimes fail.)

An alternative to blocks is to get 2x12" boards from Home Depot or other lumber supplier. Have them cut it into 2 foot pieces - long enough that even if the trailer moves a few inches, it won't come off the boards. A 12' board will yield 6 pieces which is almost as much height as you'd get from a plastic set of levelers.

 

[TomMar]

I too have parked in a location that one leg started to move due to the angle but when I put my homemade 12" x 12" x 6" wooden blocks down we got traction. I agree with chocks or the between wheel grips however in some of our uneven sites our 4point auto leveling system picked the wheels on one side completely off the ground. So much for my chocks. What I am saying is nothing is perfect so keep an alternate option in mind. I like the extra boards because we were very successful with them on our '09 Big Horn.

We also have a 4' level that I have used to cross check the automatic system, but neither can override the DW's system - She opens the bathroom door and looks to see if it swings forward/back/right/left. No swing and she is happy and everyone knows when she is happy everyone is happy.

Happy travels

 

[JohnDar]

I still carry my 4x4 cribbing pads with me in case one of my Ground Control jacks ends up in a low spot...like we're currently parked. One jack (DS rear) ended up in a depression that would put it at it's travel limit, so it got a pad. The pads are roughly 12" x 12" x 4 1/2." They're inexpensive to make, can be stacked, and stow easily in the truck bed. This photo is when it was still at the storage yard. When I installed the Ground Control system, I stacked them three high under the frame when removing/replacing the front jacks.

Something I do when pulling into our CG, even though the trees are trimmed for large rigs, is to angle my mirrors up so I can see the sides along the roof. Tree trunks don't always grow up straight, so it's good to be aware of what may be cutting close.
View attachment 19834

 

[danemayer]

Once you tighten them between the wheels, the only way the rig will slide is if it's on mud - the wheels won't rotate.

Alice, it occurred to me this morning that when I'm parked in front of my house, where the curb side of the street drops off, if I use the x-chocks, and the wheels come off the ground, the wheels can spread, and the chock no longer holds them tight. So if you're site is sloped sideways, 2 chocks would be safer.

 

[porthole]

Alice, you had several things working against you which just exaggerated your experience, state park, with little or no guidance from the staff, heavy rain and steep, winding roads. You were a wreck before you even got to your spot. You need to get to a rally and be with other HL folks and see what we all do. Take all the ideas and suggestions and see what works for you. Wheel chocks, sometimes I use them, sometimes I don't. You will learn when you need them. Our current site at Lake George has a bit of a drop off at the rear, and I used my "wedge" ground chocks to make sure the trailer didn't roll when I un-hooked. Don't depend on wheel chocks once you hit that auto level button. The system "un-loads" the tires. Reduced tire to ground contact = reduced holding power. Learn how to use you leveling system, and as mentioned above, learn how to use the manual mode. Many times the "auto level" can exaggerate the lift needed to level out the trailer. My system starts by always lifting the left side about 2". then bringing the rest of the jacks down to level. You may find at times, as nice as the auto function is, just bringing the jacks down and lifting only an inch or so is sufficient. Sounds like you need to level the trailer using the jacks and carpenter levels (4' level) and the have the system learn your new level. It is way to do, just follow the instructions. If you find the steel jack pads slipping or sliding on asphalt, gravel or even we grass, a piece of wood adds a good amount of friction for you. If you were to walk down the rows of trailers here at this rally you will see a mix of types wheel chocks, some are using, some not, some have pads under the leveling jacks, some don't. You mentioned the slides and leveling. If the ground is not hard packed I will put the slides out first, then level. At this campground it had rained heavly a couple of days before we got here. So I leveled the rig and let it is for 30 minutes or so and then re-leveled it.