Rear stabilizer fusing

[Excalibur]

Hi all,
second post but once again wiring and fusing is the issue. My 2011 Elkridge rear stabilizing motor is questionable, but I cAnt verify that until I find the fuse to disarm circuit. Anyone who has changed out this motor or at least worked on the up-down switch can probably tell me where to look. I have 12 volts at the switch, so I know its a hot circuit. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[danemayer]

If you have a battery cutoff switch, turn it OFF. If not, disconnect the cables from the battery - carefully.

If your stabilizers have the worm gear, the motor probably has rusted brush springs. 1/2 of a ball point pen spring will make a substitute.

When removing the motor, the machine screws holding it may be Torx. Loosen the nuts on the inside to get the screws out.

 

[Excalibur]

Thanks for the reply, I'll give that a go. But what you're saying is its an unprotected circuit? Not doubting, just being cautious.

 

[JohnDar]

I've repaired two of those stabilizer motors, mine and another owner's. Neither had a fuse associated with it. If you're in a situation where your can't disconnect the battery, remove the switch from the side of the trailer and disconnect the leads to it (carefully and remember which goes back where). The Made in India motors use two brush springs with the thickness of a fine baby's hair. Not well sealed, either, so moisture gets in there and corrodes them into dust. About a half or slightly less of a ball point pen spring for each is all you need to replace them. Be careful disassembling the holders for them because the tiny screws are easy to lose and are possibly badly corroded, as well. Unless you're familiar with small electric motor assemblies, take your time and take note of what goes where to put it back together.

Once you've put it back together, you can "bench test" it before reattaching it to the stabilizer by reattaching the wires to the switch contacts and operating the switch. It should operate forward and reverse. If it does, remount it to the stabilizer.

To prevent water getting into it again, wrap the joint between the motor casing and the gear box a couple of times with silicone Rescue Tape, taking care to wrap the point where the wires enter the casing, as well. My repair has lasted almost 7 years.

- - - Updated - - -


- - - Updated - - -

Test post. Seems when I edit, I get a full repeat of the previous message.

 

[danemayer]

Thanks for the reply, I'll give that a go. But what you're saying is its an unprotected circuit? Not doubting, just being cautious.

No, it might be protected by one of the 12V DC mini-circuit breakers, or there could be a fuse somewhere. But it's more a case of how much time you want to spend running down the circuit protection vs. shutting everything off for a minute to disconnect the motor without having to do it 'hot'.

 

[Excalibur]

Thanks to both replies, I believe that info is more than enough to go ahead and change it out. Removing hot lead from the switch makes sense no matter where the fuse. I'll post and toast you later.

- - - Updated - - -

Make that all wiring after I take a pic of it