rear stablizer jacks

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
While working yesterday getting our playhouse ready for a trip at Easter,I remembered that on our first trip last season the rear stablizer jacks did not want to move when I hit the button. I could hear the motor click and try to move but I had to bump the switch a few times and hit the motor with my fist.They finally did begin to work and worked fine the rest of the season. I thought I had better try them yesterday and sure enough the same thing happened. Only this time even a soft touch with a hammer would not do it.I tried using the manual handle that came with the unit.Could not move them. So I took the motor off and took it apart.A couple of the gears stayed in the top part of the motor and the rest in the bottom. I took my plyers and gently moved the main gear back and forth until it broke loose,hit the switch and it began to work.Put the motor back together and all works fine now. The only thing is the motor sounds rougher than I remembered it from last season. My questions are, do I have a bad bearing in the motor and would the motor have stuck because of no use?I know that there are some very smart people that will be reading this that can give me some answers. Now the only other thing I know I need to do,at least at this point ,is replace 3 hydraulic lines that are dripping at the fitting.One goes between the pump and the slide out cut off valves,one goes to the landing gear,and one to the door side slideout. Since I am not sure of the best way to refasten the under belly after I cut it,I may let a local rv repair guy do this one.Thanks! Terry
 
Last edited:

Rmcgrath53

Well-known member
This is what happened with mine. The switch is located behind the wheels and is open to getting wet and corroded. My switch became very crudded up with salt from the highway. Any way they put a new switch in and shrink wraped it real good to protect it better from the elements.
 

SmokeyBare

Well-known member
Terry,

Hard to tell from this side of the fence... if that motor has got a little rust on the surface of the motor shaft or not... your half way to being the resident EXPERT :D With you having already removed and partly tore apart the motor.
( mine is still working so I go with the Ain't Broke - Don't Fix It )

If I was you... I'd be tearing apart the motor one more time... using a digital camera to take snap shots as you do... in case reassembling it becomes confusing... and check it out for any rust or grit that might be making it get jammed from starting... and as already stated... check out the switch as well.

GOOD LUCK !

Marv
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
It sounds a lot like a corrosion problem. Is there any way to "seal" the gear drive unit once it's re-assembled? We don't have the electric rear jacks so I'm not too familiar with the set up.
 

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
Here is an update to the post above about my rear jacks. I have been bothered all season with the motor working when it wanted to.So I had the motor checked out at a local rv repair shop this week.Long story short the motor was replaced.For about 40.00 more I could get the jack assembly also so that is what I did.This was done under my extended warranty,which is about to end.Did have to pay a deductable.Installed the new jacks today my self and other than two broken bolts it was a fairly simple job.
 

Tom of Ypsi

Well-known member
Had the same thing happen with our rear jacks last March. Took the motor apart and cleaned the brushes been working fine since then.
 
I disassembled my inoperative rear stablizer motor today and found some moisture from last February when we drove hundreds of miles in the rain. Cleaned, dried, greased, and reassembled the motor and it works again. But the circuit breaker trips when I start putting any weight on the stablizers. So I think I will replace the self-resetting circuit breaker that is located in the battery compartment.
QUESTION is, what is the amperage of that circuit breaker?

Thanks for any help
 

caissiel

Senior Member
If the motor is like a starter, and the bearings are starting to go it might be blowing the circuit breaker because of drag, more DC power might just make it work harder and hotter. I have a new unit and wil surely watch it from now on. We learn something all the time, and all these options are maintenance items that need attention.
I did use Lithium Grease on the hubs of my 4 x 4 with no seals and it was great for the small needle bearings exposed to water, the no seal thing was so the water run out and not get trapped in the hub.
Maybe grease in there might help prevent water and rusting.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Jim,

Give Lippert a call in the morning - they should know. Circle back here with the answer so it is searchable in the forum for others going forward.

Check the ground to ensure it is not corroded.

The owners manual for this item is on the Heartland Owners Manuals site at this link. It includes a wiring diagram and some basic troubleshooting.

Best of luck,

Jim


Lippert Components Inc.
866-524-7821
Lippert's Website
eMail Lippert
 
Top