Removing My Black Tank Valve - Suggestions

[JanAndBill]

Because of ongoing problems with the valve, I put in an aluminum plate access hatch in the bottom, so that part isn't a problem. I believe the valve is installed backwards, so I'm going to remove it and rotate it. Besides the obvious (not being directly underneath when I remove it ) are there any other suggestions for prepping the tank to hopefully lessen the dreaded downfall? Already thought about putting blocks under the wheels to raise the passenger side up. Any suggestions on what to use to lube the seals when I reinstall it?

 

[danemayer]

Before taking the valve apart, I'd suggest you take a long look at the valve and surrounding space and where the cable would run. My black tank valve also opens to the rear, making the cable do a 180 degree turn. But I'm not sure there's clearance on the front side to simply rotate it. Maybe yours is different, but I'd look first.

I recently loosened the nuts on the assembly very slightly which allows the blade to slide in and out a little better. I think the last guy to work on the valve might have overtightened them.

 

[JanAndBill]

Before taking the valve apart, I'd suggest you take a long look at the valve and surrounding space and where the cable would run. My black tank valve also opens to the rear, making the cable do a 180 degree turn. But I'm not sure there's clearance on the front side to simply rotate it. Maybe yours is different, but I'd look first.

I recently loosened the nuts on the assembly very slightly which allows the blade to slide in and out a little better. I think the last guy to work on the valve might have overtightened them.

Dan, they could well be to tight, because the service guy told me had tightened them down when they replaced the valve under warranty. The valve has leaked ever since they replaced it, which I guess being to tight could cause the blade not go all the way in and seal. Might try to loosen the bolts some and see what happens. If it still doesn't seal off I'll need to remove it anyway. The drawing I received from Heartland shows it mounted opening to the front. It looks to me like there is enough clearance to mount it that way, but I will check that again. The ideal position would be slightly up, and pointed toward the front, but since the dealer didn't cut the pipe and use a rubber coupling, I don't know if I want to go that far.

 

[mobilcastle]

Good luck with your repair. Do you have the extra valve added to your discharge pipe at the end where you connect the hose. You can add one easily to stop the leak building up at the cap.

 

[Garypowell]

Once you have emptied the tank roll the rig up on some leveling blocks on the left side. This will not only make it easier to get underneth to work but it will make any remaining "stuff" in the tank will go over to the other side of the tank.....thus protecting you!

 

[JanAndBill]

Good luck with your repair. Do you have the extra valve added to your discharge pipe at the end where you connect the hose. You can add one easily to stop the leak building up at the cap.

I've been reluctant to add one as it would stick out far enough to be a disaster waiting to happen. If I can't get the valve to operate properly I have enough pipe at the discharge to cut it and put a permanent valve in.

 

[JanAndBill]

This is a job I've been reluctant to tackle, as there is just something about laying on my back UNDERNEATH a sewer line. Finally got up the motivation to tackle it. After removing my "access hatch" (this was one my better ideas), I was able to get enough light up in the compartment to determine that I had enough room to rotate the valve 180 degrees, but if I did then there were so many barriers in the way that it wouldn't really give me any better cable routing. When I removed the cable from the valve, I taped a rope to the end. Then went back to the compartment and removed the nut from the back of the cable, which allowed me to pull the cable with rope attached out. I was able to manipulate the rope by reaching through from the basement into a larger arch without sharp bends. Once I had the routing the way I wanted it, I taped the rope to the new cable and pulled it back into position. I should mention that before I installed the new cable, I pulled the handle out far enough that I could spray silicon lube in, making sure it went all the way through. I had to use a 4" grinder to remove about a 1/4" of the outer covering at the valve end to get the valve adjusted properly. Should also note that the dealer replaced this valve less than a year ago under warranty, and did a shoddy job. Two of the bottom bolts holding the valve together were overly tight, and the two on top were really loose, and they left out entirely one of the bolts that clamps the outer cable. Once I corrected this, I lubricated the push rod on the valve with white grease, and sealed everything back up. Valve works great, and best of all NO LEAKS!!!!