Out on a 2 week trip and the hot water was working just fine. Then one night nothing! So I switch to propane and everything was good again. On the way to the next stop I stopped and picked up a new electric heating element and I replaced it at the next and still no hot water while using the system on electric power. Any suggestions?
Replace Heating Element in Tank Still NO Hot H2O
- Thread starter BigStinky
- Start date
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Check the circuit board module taped to the back of the water heater. It may have come undone. Also check the reset switches under the rubber "buttons" on the front of the water heater. One is for 120V operation, the other for 12V (propane). If the 120V has tripped, press it back in and see if that remedies your problem.
As mentioned above, it sounds like wiring. After disconnecting from shore power and turning off the generator, take the breaker panel out and be certain that the wires are attached.
You mentioned that you checked the breaker. Did you turn it off then back on again? Sometimes they are tripped but look like they are not. It's best to turn off then on.
Peace
Dave
You mentioned that you checked the breaker. Did you turn it off then back on again? Sometimes they are tripped but look like they are not. It's best to turn off then on.
Peace
Dave
Yes I did turn the breakers off and on again to make sure they weren't trip. I checked the rubber fuse buttons on the front and they are good too. Only thing I still need to check is the circuit board on the back. If I can't get it tomorrow looks like will have to leave it on the propane for the next 8 days until I get home. Thanks everyone and if anyone can think of anything please let me know.
ChopperBill
Well-known member
Went through the same deal myself. Like above the neutral ground wires were off at both the switch and at the connections down by the heater. The guy doing the Water heater wiring that day must of had a real bad day.
2psnapod2
Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
I am not a fan of there wirenut jobs myself. I believe they are using over sized wirenuts also. The wires I have seen are mostly 14 ga and smaller. The wirenuts used are the yellow ones that are for 12ga. They also need to work with a pair of strippers as the pre-stripped wires are never stripped far enough. JMHO
Hello Hello.... We are using our 2012 2585RL for the very first time and can not get ANY hot water (propane or electric)..... Called the dealer today and they said that the "bypass" must not have been turned to normal (we were not at the trailer when talking to them...) when we got back to the trailer this evening (dealer closed now, so no answers from them) the switches were in the "normal"position...... Can someone please help, we would really like to shower tonight..... Propane tanks are full and on (we get fire at the stove....)... We are also plugged into power so shouldn't at least one electric or gas work???? Everything seems fine,but obviously not..... Thanks.....
BigStinky,
Was the original element really bad. What did it look like when you took it out. If it was bad you should have seen the burned through area or at least check for resistance. If it was not really bad then something else was the cause of no hot water on electric. Dave's idea of checking for power at the tank is where I'd start. If the element was good then you had power originally then none. If all switches are OK and all breakers are reset then it's on to the electronics or circuit boards for a cause. This is part of the reason why some of us need schematics of these electrical devices.
Was the original element really bad. What did it look like when you took it out. If it was bad you should have seen the burned through area or at least check for resistance. If it was not really bad then something else was the cause of no hot water on electric. Dave's idea of checking for power at the tank is where I'd start. If the element was good then you had power originally then none. If all switches are OK and all breakers are reset then it's on to the electronics or circuit boards for a cause. This is part of the reason why some of us need schematics of these electrical devices.
I don't have a meter with me but it looks like I might need to add it to my tool box. The heating element looks fine normal coarsion and no burn marks. The switch still lights up so I have power at the switch. Leaning towards the circuit board. Might just have to wait until I get home. Thanks again for everything. Bill
Rickhansen
Well-known member
BigStinky,
You definitely need a multimeter in your toolbox.
If I'm not mistaken, the circuit board is not your problem. The circuit board is only for gas operation. It has the direct spark ignitor and flame sensing/safeguard circuitry. It doesn't even have 110 volts going to it; only 12vdc.
The 110 volt circuit for the heating element only has two switches (inside and the rocker switch at the water heater), a manual reset high-limit cutout switch, a thermostat operating control (both under the rubber cover), and of course the 1400 watt heating element. Once you're sure you have proper 110 volts at the heater, that only leaves 3 devices that can be checked (de-energized) with an ohm meter.
Sorry I can't help more from here...
You definitely need a multimeter in your toolbox.
If I'm not mistaken, the circuit board is not your problem. The circuit board is only for gas operation. It has the direct spark ignitor and flame sensing/safeguard circuitry. It doesn't even have 110 volts going to it; only 12vdc.
The 110 volt circuit for the heating element only has two switches (inside and the rocker switch at the water heater), a manual reset high-limit cutout switch, a thermostat operating control (both under the rubber cover), and of course the 1400 watt heating element. Once you're sure you have proper 110 volts at the heater, that only leaves 3 devices that can be checked (de-energized) with an ohm meter.
Sorry I can't help more from here...
Rickhansen
Well-known member
Sunnywa,
Far be it for me to chastise anyone, but you have jumped into the middle of someone's on-going thread. You've also not provided much for insight as to what you've tried, observed, or what your results have been. You'll find this forum can be very helpful, as is reading the manuals and your PDI when you picked up your new rig. You'd be better off starting a new thread, and giving the rest of some more info to start with.
Enough of that...
The "bypass" is a valve located in your UDC that used for winterizing. If it is set to bypass the hot water heater (winterize) the water heater may have little or no water in it, or at best, no flow through it. If you have turned on the electric (both the red illuminated switch inside, and the rocker switch outside) without the tank being full then you have likely burned up your electric heating element and it's time to get to know your dealers service department.
Have you turned on the red illuminated rocker switch on the tank level meter? Did the burner light?
If you pull the lever slightly on the thermal/pressure relief valve does water come out? Is it hot?
Good Luck - hope you had your shower by now.
