Rushmore shower drain hose

[jjwink]

We are seeing a leak from the shower area to the cabinet under the pantry when we take a shower. Upon inspection it appears the hose from the shower drain to the hose to the grey tank has come loose or moved. How do we get the shower drain out to further inspect this problems? Is it correctable by us?

 

[JohnD]

Our 2013 Heartland Trail Runner had a shower issue . . .

Basically, the shower faucet was not attached correctly to the wall and leaked behind the faucet to the floor under that shower stall.

Contact your dealer and alert them to the problem . . .

Make them fix it under warranty!

It took two warranty visits to get our shower fixed.

 

[boatto5er]

We are seeing a leak from the shower area to the cabinet under the pantry when we take a shower. Upon inspection it appears the hose from the shower drain to the hose to the grey tank has come loose or moved. How do we get the shower drain out to further inspect this problems? Is it correctable by us?

You should be able to lift the drain cover in the shower straight up. It will be snug, but should pop out. On my Grand Canyon, you can see the drain connections under the shower by going into the "basement of doom", but your leak should be above that level. Are you sure it's not a clear caulking leak around the shower itself where the glass connects to the metal ribs? We have the radial style shower and I had to recaulk part of it last year?.

 

[danemayer]

Upon inspection it appears the hose from the shower drain to the hose to the grey tank has come loose or moved.

Hi jjwink,

We also have a 2011 Rushmore. I'm pretty sure the shower drain is a 1-1/2" PVC pipe that goes into the gray #1 tank. If you take down the basement wall and stick your head in there, I think you can see where it goes into the gray tank.

Can you fill us in on your inspection and exactly what you saw.

 

[jjwink]

Repairman #1 found our problem-our drain has broken off where the p-trap connects to the floor drain. Unfortunately some glue-happy person glued the pipe to the floor drain! Drain won't budge. Repairman #2 coming tomorrow to see if he can free the floor drain and replace the pipe . All insulation in underbelly will also need replacing. All this is in an area behind and beyond the UDC where there is only room for a tiny, tiny person.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Jerry, what insulation are you refering to. Is their "batten" type insulation in the underbelly? I am asking cause I dont think that HL uses that.....but maybe. If you have some water sitting in the underbelly, drill a small hole (1/4") at the low spot and you will be good to go.

 

[danemayer]

All insulation in underbelly will also need replacing.

Actually just the insulation in the front section will need replacing. The back section is about 8" higher and probably didn't get wet. And yes, it's batting type insulation on a 2011 Rushmore. There's probably also a sheet of radiant foil barrier.

If you ever camp in cold weather, while the front section of coroplast is down, it's very easy to add a couple of sheets of foam board insulation under the bedroom. Just cut it to fit inside the frame. Insert one end against the frame, flex and install the other end into the other frame member. The frame will hold it in place nicely. 5 minutes tops. If you want to spend 15 minutes, get a roll of attic insulation and tape pieces onto the top side of the foam board before installing.

 

[rjr6150]

Repairman #1 found our problem-our drain has broken off where the p-trap connects to the floor drain. Unfortunately some glue-happy person glued the pipe to the floor drain! Drain won't budge. Repairman #2 coming tomorrow to see if he can free the floor drain and replace the pipe . All insulation in underbelly will also need replacing. All this is in an area behind and beyond the UDC where there is only room for a tiny, tiny person.

Jerry
Typically the riser from the p-trap glues into the bottom of the shower drain. Much easier than the old way we used to do it called lead wool and oakum. Your repair guy should be able to use either a no-hub coupler or Fernco coupler to join the two pieces back together. This will also allow slight flexing of the pipe. If not any big box store will have a new drain assembly. Mine is in storage or I would check typically shower drain calls for 2".

 

[jjwink]

Repairs to drain complete and all pipes are now strapped to floor so they will have less freedom to bounce around. Still have to replace insulation but we will let underbelly dry out for a few days. Amazing what all was left behind in the build! Thanks for all the suggestions. We don't often use the fifth wheel in really cold climates but might add the stryo-you can never have too much insulation.

 

[kakampers]

Bob...all Landmarks have batten insulation in the underbelly...

 

[jjwink]

Today's chore- take out all screws holding front section of chloroplast up and pull out ALL the old insulation. It was a wet mess! We will let it dry completely for several days before replacing it. Since we are wintering in Gold Canyon, AZ , getting it really dry won't be a problem. Getting it all back up might be a different story!!

 

[danemayer]

Today's chore- take out all screws holding front section of chloroplast up and pull out ALL the old insulation. It was a wet mess! We will let it dry completely for several days before replacing it. Since we are wintering in Gold Canyon, AZ , getting it really dry won't be a problem. Getting it all back up might be a different story!!

Hi Jerry,

It is hard to get back in place if you're by yourself. One thing I've done is use a 2x4 and large spring-loaded clamps. Clamp the 2x4 to the frame to hold up the middle of the coroplast.