sewer smell and clogs

[rcardin]

Spent 8 weeks in our 2011 32bhds at the coast. After about 4 days we started to notice sewer smell when we flushed. I ran a full tank of water through it with a box of baking soda and drained it. Ran a second full tank and drained it again. I changed over to Seazyme for the holding tank because we had used it before with no problems. About 3 days later same problem with the smell. I knew it shouldn't be full in only 3 days so I let it go another couple of days. I noticed toilet paper was starting to clog the drain pipe. After a few more flushes it was almost completely clogged. I had to use my awning rod from the last RV to stir the clog and make it go down the drain. Needless to say this was not a pleasant experience. I ended up having to do this every few days and flushing the tank each time we dumped.

This being our 5th RV we have never had this problem. Took it to the dealer when we got back 2 1/2 weeks ago. We had a few minor problems that needed to be addressed including the toilet problem. Dealer emailed me yesterday and said the black tank is really dirty and needs to be flushed and that is where the smell is coming from. $180.00 plus chemicals to do this. I told them they were out of their mind and I would flush the tank myself. This still does not address the problem of the clogs in the 46 degree fitting. Since we do spend all summer in it at the beach and we did pay over 24k for it in January I would expect the **** toilet to work with no problems.


Reading other posts the first thing I am going to do it replace the vent caps with the cyclone vent. Only make sense it would work better. As far as the clogs any ideas before I go to the dealer to pick it up?

 

[jimtoo]

Hi rcardin,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

It sounds like your not using enough water. That is the only time I ever had the problem with a TT. Learned my lesson quick. But if you have had other units and not had the problem .... I don't know of anything else. Maybe some of out other members will jump in with an idea.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M

 

[JohnDar]

When you open the tank drain does it appear to flow freely or does it trickle out? When you flush the tank and use it again, do you add 5 gallons or so of water and your chemical of choice, or do you just start pooping in it? Unless you're standing on the pedal each time you flush, you're not putting enough water in the tank to allow the solids to break up. Get yourself a HydroFlush adapter for the sewer connection and back flush the tank a few times to get the solids pyramid out of there.

After using the tank flusher on mine until the water runs fairly clear, I close the valve and flow about 5 gallons into the tank. Then I add a small bucket of water with a cup of Calgon dissolved in it via the toilet. Occasionally, recent deposits that have not had a chance to break up may stick at the tank valve. Then out comes the HydroFlush (which is always attached to my sewer, anyways). No problems.

 

[hoefler]

Dumb question, are you setting on your site with all the dump valves black and grey open??

 

[jmgratz]

What brand of toilet paper are u using? I use Angel Soft and have not had any problem. You have to use one that is septic safe for it to break up alright.

 

[rcardin]

After reading the first 8 pages of this forum I have come to the conclusion that we just aren't using enough water. All of our previus rv's have had the tank directly below the toilet so everything just fell in.
The site doesn't have sewer so we have to roll the honey wagon over to dump every few days. Toilet paper varies. We started with single ply septic safe. After the clogs we changed to seazyme for break down chemical. It has always allowed us to use just about any brand except charmin. Tank flows great when emptying it just seems to clog at the bend going to the tank.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

The site doesn't have sewer so we have to roll the honey wagon over to dump every few days. Toilet paper varies. We started with single ply septic safe. After the clogs we changed to seazyme for break down chemical. It has always allowed us to use just about any brand except charmin. Tank flows great when emptying it just seems to clog at the bend going to the tank.

I think the problem may be that you have to dump too often. When you dump without using a tank flusher OR without having enough flow to get the solids to run out, the solids will begin to back up to the drain pipe. Keep in mind, the black tank is only about 6 inches deep. IF, and I stress if, the pipe from the crapper is extending into the tank at all, that increases the chance of blockage from the pile of pucky. It's always best to dump only when the tank is full and you have the opportunity to flush it good.
If we have to use a dump station, I put at least 25 to 30 gallons of water in my fresh water tank and have a hose I can connect to the flusher from the pump. In other words, I can flush the tank without being hooked up to anything except the sewer. I flush till the pump won't pull water and the fresh tank is empty. Then I dump the Grey tanks to flush the sewer hose a bit.
For the record, we also have a 45 degree bend just below the crapper and another before going into the tank.

 

[Boca_Shuffles]

We had the same problem this week on our BH 3055RL. After a total plug up in the down pipe from the head to the tank which had to be pumped out by a septic cleaning company, we realized what the problem was.

NOT USING ENOUGH WATER WHEN FLUSHING. THE TOILET PAPER DID NOT MAKE IT TO THE TANK.

The head does not drop directly into the tank, but rather the down pipe makes a couple bends . If you don't run enough water in the flush cycle, the TP will build up in the bends of the down pipe.

Flushing your tank or back flushing from the outside will not help unless you close the valves and fill all the way up the down pipe. This is generally not done because people have had plumbing disasters if they got distracted during the total back flush.

A safer solution is to occasionally fill the head to the top with rinse water and flush. You can also fast pour a bucket of water down the head while holding the head flush pedal open.

 

[JohnDar]

If you keep a couple/3 inches of water in the bowl after each use, you should have ample water to move anything down the pipe (also keeps odors out). Unless, of course, you're doing things of epic proportions. The other thing is to only use enough TP to do the job and make sure it's wetted before sending it on it's way. If you're using enough to rewrite the IRS codes on, you're going to plug up the works.

RV Toilet Training 101.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

RV Toilet Training 102 (Maybe TMI)

Something we've practiced since day one in the RV. I keep a roll of Scott's single ply in the WC and use it to put a single layer, maybe 3 sheets, of paper on the water before releasing the load. This may not help with the passing of said load through the pipes but it does help keep the bowl and seals from getting smudged up.

 

[rcardin]

We should pick it up from the dealer this weekend or next and I will do a full flush and make sure it is cleaned out really good. We have Thanksgiving break coming up and will be going back to the coast for a week. I'll make sure we use plenty of water and will try the calgon method to see if we can clean the sensors on the way down. 8 hours of sloshing around on the way down should do the trick

 

[JohnDar]

RV Toilet Training 102 (Maybe TMI)

Something we've practiced since day one in the RV. I keep a roll of Scott's single ply in the WC and use it to put a single layer, maybe 3 sheets, of paper on the water before releasing the load. This may not help with the passing of said load through the pipes but it does help keep the bowl and seals from getting smudged up.

Don't tell me you've also got that old game with little paper cut-outs of battle ships, and such. Especially for men to play "Sink the Bismarck" by aerial strafing. Or was that how they trained naval gunners??

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

I just throw an "m-80" down the pipe when ever it get slow or plugged up. Works for me!

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Don't tell me you've also got that old game with little paper cut-outs of battle ships, and such. Especially for men to play "Sink the Bismarck" by aerial strafing.

Nah, I quit playing that game a couple years ago. But I do keep a hand held Freecell game handy.

 

[JohnDar]

I just throw an "m-80" down the pipe when ever it get slow or plugged up. Works for me!

That would be "Nuke the Bismarck." Before we get into the realm of analogies for "Hunt for Red October," I'll stop.

 

[jjwink]

We are planning to install one of the cyclone vents on our 2011 Rushmore. How do you know which of the roof vents is for the toilet? There are 2 very close together.

 

[mikeandconnie]

Take the vent cover off and go by smell. I think you will find the gray sink smell worst then the black tank," I did" and installed one on both... The shower had no smell..

We are planning to install one of the cyclone vents on our 2011 Rushmore. How do you know which of the roof vents is for the toilet? There are 2 very close together.

 

[jimtoo]

We are planning to install one of the cyclone vents on our 2011 Rushmore. How do you know which of the roof vents is for the toilet? There are 2 very close together.

There are several threads about sewer smell and how to locate the vent on the roof..The vent that is right above the toilet is usually the one for the black tank. There have been several ways mentioned on how to make sure it is the one. One of the ways to locate the vent is for you to get on roof,,, have DW hold down flush lever and stick head into toilet and call your name while you listen on the roof at the vents. (Now this is not my suggestion, I just borrowed it.) Now if it does work to locate the vent, please let us know.

This thread also recommends a cyclone vent and I also have one and they do work.

Have fun and use lots of water.

Jim M