SOLVED - Inverter GFI Issue
- Thread starter gfnesbitt
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rxbristol
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
A refrigerator has an inductive load that can trip GFCI's and this seems to be a classic example of this phenomenon. Without an experienced electrician installing a snubber, the only way to prevent this problem is to plug the fridge into a non-GFCI.
I replaced my inverter but that did not fix my issue
A refrigerator has an inductive load that can trip GFCI's and this seems to be a classic example of this phenomenon. Without an experienced electrician installing a snubber, the only way to prevent this problem is to plug the fridge into a non-GFCI.
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
I think the National Electric Code now requires GFCI outlets for refrigerators in some residential locations, and may become a requirement for all locations in the not too distant future. That obviously poses the question of how there could be a code requirement for something that doesn't work. Maybe the GFCI is actually doing its job and there's a current leakage problem.
I think the National Electric Code now requires GFCI outlets for refrigerators in some residential locations, and may become a requirement for all locations in the not too distant future. That obviously poses the question of how there could be a code requirement for something that doesn't work. Maybe the GFCI is actually doing its job and there's a current leakage problem.
rxbristol
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
So, Dan, do you think the brand of the refrigerator has current leakage at the motor?
So, Dan, do you think the brand of the refrigerator has current leakage at the motor?
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
GFI.
Peace
Dave
That is possible but the OP stated in post #16 that when he plugged the refer into the bathroom GFI it ran fine without tripping that
GFI.
Peace
Dave
rxbristol
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
It could be the brand of GFCI the inverter company is using. I know some brands of GFCI's are terrible and cause problems.
- - - Updated - - -
My layman theory is that the brand of GFCI the inverter company is using cannot handle a motor's inductive load and trips.
It could be the brand of GFCI the inverter company is using. I know some brands of GFCI's are terrible and cause problems.
- - - Updated - - -
My layman theory is that the brand of GFCI the inverter company is using cannot handle a motor's inductive load and trips.
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
It's possible. But there are a junction boxes, a transfer switch, and other components. And until moisture is ruled out all the way from inverter to refrigerator, that's always a possibility.
My first guess would be a poor neutral wire connection somewhere between inverter and refrigerator power cord.
It's possible. But there are a junction boxes, a transfer switch, and other components. And until moisture is ruled out all the way from inverter to refrigerator, that's always a possibility.
My first guess would be a poor neutral wire connection somewhere between inverter and refrigerator power cord.
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
I have a RMA to send my unit back. I have requested they replace the GFCI outlet with a non-GFCI. We’ll see if they will do it. No way to find the leakage to ground. My experience with traffic control cabinets over the years was we never put anything with a current draw and/or load that was unstable into a GFI.
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I have a RMA to send my unit back. I have requested they replace the GFCI outlet with a non-GFCI. We’ll see if they will do it. No way to find the leakage to ground. My experience with traffic control cabinets over the years was we never put anything with a current draw and/or load that was unstable into a GFI.
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carl.swoyer
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
Double check with Magnum energy. Have the paperwork for the fridge handy and they will need the specifications for your frig.425-353-8833. I always try to get Glenn on line. He is incredible
Always willing to help you with your Inverter.
At least you can determine the inverter is a suitable match or possibly a little short on the application.
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If the inverter is dedicated to the refrigerator then it sounds like your having trouble with lock rotar amperage. Meaning the output capability of the inverter is not sufficient to start the compressor on the refrigerator. It may be sufficient for running it but not starting it. Had the very same problem with my 07.
Double check with Magnum energy. Have the paperwork for the fridge handy and they will need the specifications for your frig.425-353-8833. I always try to get Glenn on line. He is incredible
Always willing to help you with your Inverter.
At least you can determine the inverter is a suitable match or possibly a little short on the application.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
I sent my inverter back to Magnum in December. Just got the replacement back this week. Installed it yesterday. Shut down my utility power and the inverter powered my fridge for more than an hour. Issue appears solved. Their failure analysis indicated my unit had a defective system board that was causing the GFCI to trip.
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I sent my inverter back to Magnum in December. Just got the replacement back this week. Installed it yesterday. Shut down my utility power and the inverter powered my fridge for more than an hour. Issue appears solved. Their failure analysis indicated my unit had a defective system board that was causing the GFCI to trip.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
That’s great news. I haven’t solved the issue with mine yet but replacing the inverter didn’t fix it. Maybe 2 bad ones?
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That’s great news. I haven’t solved the issue with mine yet but replacing the inverter didn’t fix it. Maybe 2 bad ones?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikeandconnie
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
Is there any updates here. Jim did you get your inverter to stop popping the GFI? I'm going to try to get mine to stop popping.
Thanks
Is there any updates here. Jim did you get your inverter to stop popping the GFI? I'm going to try to get mine to stop popping.
Thanks
Mark-Roberta 051995
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
I was going to start a new thread on this but there are multiple discussions on this so I will continue here on my experience. This is on a 2017 LM 365 Charleston.
This started last week when we were in Charlotte. Traveled with the inverter on to keep the fridge cold on our 7 hour trip. Worked great all of the way. Ran generators all 6 days while there and the fridge worked as it should. We turned the generators off one day to give them a rest, flipped the switch for the inverter and the fridge came on. We came back to the camper 3 hours later and the fridge had no power. Fired up the generators and the fridge worked as it should. During our 7 hour trip home we turned the inverter on for travel and the fridge came on as it should. We stopped for lunch 4 hours later and the fridge was off. I was not smart enough to understand that the inverter had a GFCI and was tied to the transfer switch.
I reached out to Neale Behm for advice and the trouble shooting started just like everyone else once we got home to our campground.
1. See if the inverter GFCI is tripped = Yes
2. Reset it = Yes but tripped immediately
3. Unplug camper from shore power = Yes
4. Plug transfer switch back into inverter = Yes
5. Tripped immediately
6. Review Amp incoming from battery = 12.8
7. Output was reading 0.00
8. Plug a device into the inverter directly = no concerns and worked as it should, however it was only a razor charger. In Neal's eyes - not enough current to make a sound decision so we will try a larger power tool or coffee maker this weekend
9. Turned power off to fridge - on board switch only as I did not unplug it from the outlet
10. Turned all shore power off
11. Turned inverter on and got a 12.7 amp reading
12. Plugged in the transfer switch - tripped the breaker
13. Called the inverter company today and explained my dilemma on the above
14. Technician told me to do one more thing and that is to unplug the fridge from all power, then plug the transfer switch to the inverter to see what it will do
15. If the inverter trips - bad transfer switch
16. If it does not trip - bad connection from transfer switch to the fridge
Based on my view of the threads and everyone else's trial and errors throughout this and other threads no one has mentioned the transfer switch to be bad. The technician I spoke to told me that if I unplug my fridge from the outlet and put a bigger load on the inverter and it does not trip it then it is a good part. If I plug the transfer switch back into the inverter and it trips - bad transfer switch. My dilemma will be if the inverter does not trip once I plug the transfer switch it back into the inverter and then plug the fridge back in and it trips - I have a loose wire somewhere.
I hope to get this resolved on here vs. my dealership because they can't find their way into work some days. I welcome all comments, suggestions, telling me things to check or do.
A big shout out to Neale for his input and experience as this is a big learning curve for me. A beer will be had over a nice dinner once resolved.
Thanks in advance everyone
Mark
I was going to start a new thread on this but there are multiple discussions on this so I will continue here on my experience. This is on a 2017 LM 365 Charleston.
This started last week when we were in Charlotte. Traveled with the inverter on to keep the fridge cold on our 7 hour trip. Worked great all of the way. Ran generators all 6 days while there and the fridge worked as it should. We turned the generators off one day to give them a rest, flipped the switch for the inverter and the fridge came on. We came back to the camper 3 hours later and the fridge had no power. Fired up the generators and the fridge worked as it should. During our 7 hour trip home we turned the inverter on for travel and the fridge came on as it should. We stopped for lunch 4 hours later and the fridge was off. I was not smart enough to understand that the inverter had a GFCI and was tied to the transfer switch.
I reached out to Neale Behm for advice and the trouble shooting started just like everyone else once we got home to our campground.
1. See if the inverter GFCI is tripped = Yes
2. Reset it = Yes but tripped immediately
3. Unplug camper from shore power = Yes
4. Plug transfer switch back into inverter = Yes
5. Tripped immediately
6. Review Amp incoming from battery = 12.8
7. Output was reading 0.00
8. Plug a device into the inverter directly = no concerns and worked as it should, however it was only a razor charger. In Neal's eyes - not enough current to make a sound decision so we will try a larger power tool or coffee maker this weekend
9. Turned power off to fridge - on board switch only as I did not unplug it from the outlet
10. Turned all shore power off
11. Turned inverter on and got a 12.7 amp reading
12. Plugged in the transfer switch - tripped the breaker
13. Called the inverter company today and explained my dilemma on the above
14. Technician told me to do one more thing and that is to unplug the fridge from all power, then plug the transfer switch to the inverter to see what it will do
15. If the inverter trips - bad transfer switch
16. If it does not trip - bad connection from transfer switch to the fridge
Based on my view of the threads and everyone else's trial and errors throughout this and other threads no one has mentioned the transfer switch to be bad. The technician I spoke to told me that if I unplug my fridge from the outlet and put a bigger load on the inverter and it does not trip it then it is a good part. If I plug the transfer switch back into the inverter and it trips - bad transfer switch. My dilemma will be if the inverter does not trip once I plug the transfer switch it back into the inverter and then plug the fridge back in and it trips - I have a loose wire somewhere.
I hope to get this resolved on here vs. my dealership because they can't find their way into work some days. I welcome all comments, suggestions, telling me things to check or do.
A big shout out to Neale for his input and experience as this is a big learning curve for me. A beer will be had over a nice dinner once resolved.
Thanks in advance everyone
Mark
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
Those diagnostic approaches sound reasonable.
One other thing you might do is to inspect the junction box(es) coming out of the transfer switch. If there's a marginal condition there, it might only fail on the inverter since there's a GFCI involved with the inverter, but not with shore power or generator.
Those diagnostic approaches sound reasonable.
One other thing you might do is to inspect the junction box(es) coming out of the transfer switch. If there's a marginal condition there, it might only fail on the inverter since there's a GFCI involved with the inverter, but not with shore power or generator.
Mark-Roberta 051995
Well-known member
Re: Inverter GFI Issue
UPDATE:
On Sunday I approached the above mentioned suggestions. I turned all power off to the unit, unplugged the fridge, unplugged the main shore power and turned off the battery switches.
1. Crawl under kitchen slide with tools - I am to old for this crap
2. Grabbed a phillips screwdriver vs. a flat head - who uses a flat head screw - HEARTLAND does
3. Take the cover off of the junction box under the kitchen slide and out pours the water - REALLY???
4. Pull all the wire out of box to look for lose, bare or broken wires
5. - BINGO - broken wire - single strand black wire broken
REPAIR METHOD:
1. Dry out the box completely
2. Rewire the single strand black wire
3. Place all new electrical tap on all connections
4. Inspect cover on why was there water inside
5. The black foam seal plate looked good
6. Turn battery back on
7. Plug in inverter to the transfer switch - good to go
8. Plug the fridge back in and it came on
9. Waited five minutes all power worked as it should through the inverter
10 - SUCCESS
UPDATE:
On Sunday I approached the above mentioned suggestions. I turned all power off to the unit, unplugged the fridge, unplugged the main shore power and turned off the battery switches.
1. Crawl under kitchen slide with tools - I am to old for this crap
2. Grabbed a phillips screwdriver vs. a flat head - who uses a flat head screw - HEARTLAND does
3. Take the cover off of the junction box under the kitchen slide and out pours the water - REALLY???
4. Pull all the wire out of box to look for lose, bare or broken wires
5. - BINGO - broken wire - single strand black wire broken
REPAIR METHOD:
1. Dry out the box completely
2. Rewire the single strand black wire
3. Place all new electrical tap on all connections
4. Inspect cover on why was there water inside
5. The black foam seal plate looked good
6. Turn battery back on
7. Plug in inverter to the transfer switch - good to go
8. Plug the fridge back in and it came on
9. Waited five minutes all power worked as it should through the inverter
10 - SUCCESS
mikeandconnie
Well-known member
My Inverter GVI is still popping after 30 minutes. It's been like this since new and I just now have the time to troubleshoot it. I just bypassed all the wiring and switch with a 12 gage cord from the Inverter directly to the Refrigerator and it's still popping 20 or 30 minutes after I plugged it in. Correct me if I wrong here
it's got to be the Refrigerator or Inverter?
I will call Heartland tomorrow. I will post updates here,
LBR
Well-known member
I will venture a guess it could be a low voltage/current issue, such as weak batteries.... or a high resistance in the inverter primary wiring to it from the batteries. Is it a Magnum 1000 watt?
1) When you have some extra time for troubleshooting, open up the compartment where inverter is. Go grab your favorite beverage....your problem sounds very consistent.
2) Hang close by before the issue will happen....lend a sharp ear by the inverter and listen.
3) If the inverter has too low of current available when the refrigerator kicks on, you may hear the inverter squeal and pop the reset out. Ours will complain to us when the refrigerator starts up and voltage drops to 11.2 V or below.
Even tho the VOLTAGE of batteries show well above a static 11.2V, when the refrigerator compressor hits (dynamic), it will drop voltage a bunch if not enough current is supplied.
Hope Heartland can help you out tomorrow...
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