Starting antifreeze into water lines

[RVFun4Us]

When I winterized our 2008 3055 Big Horn in early January for the first time, I had a problem starting the antifreeze from the container through the hose into the water lines. I bypassed the hot water tanks, shutting off both valves, then opened the valve between those lines to provide the bypass. Then I opened the valve located by the water pump so that the antifreeze would pull from the antifreeze containers by putting the installed hose into the containers. I did all this after blowing out the lines using a portable air compressor. I could not get the water pump to pull from the containers so I primed the line the best I could pouring antifreeze through a funnel into the line, a little messy at best. I finally got the pump to pull from the containers but it still wasn't at full capacity. Does anyone have a better way to start the antifreeze from the container into the water lines? Maybe my mistake was blowing out the lines first? Any help appreciated.

 

[ChopperBill]

My guess is you did not shut off the valve that goes from the pump to the fresh water tank. That would pull air even if you have your anti-freeze hose in the container. With all those lines and valves it is easy to miss.

 

[jim rotman]

We also have a 2008 3055rl and I have not had a problem drawing from antifreeze bottles when I use the bedroom sink first. I seems to get the air out of the lines quickly and then I have full flow.

 

[cookie]

Sounds like too many valves being flipped here. On my 2008 Bighorn all I do is flip the two blue handle valves in the UDC, put the hose in the jug, turn on the pump and open the faucets one at a time. No need to go behind the wall.
Peace
Dave

 

[2010augusta]

I would not blow the lines out first. It sounds like you cavitated the pump. it is a water pump, not an air pump after all, so by filling the lines with air, you made it very hard for the water pump to do its job. When I winterize I use several gallons of antifreeze to flush out all the water. run each fixture till it runs nice and pink. I have not blown out lines ever.

 

[vangoes]

On my 2007 3055 there are 5 valves that need to be turned to winterize. There are 3 for the HW bypass, there is one to close the line to the FW tank and there is one to open the pickup tube for the antifreeze. No priming is ever needed. I agree with the earlier post that you probably did not close the valve to the FW tank causing the pump to pull air.

 

[RVFun4Us]

Thanks for the replies. I did not know there were five valves to flip. My Big Horn is in storage now and I will need to check the valve that you refer to from the pump to the storage tank. Did not know there was one there so I must have missed it. Thought the one with the line leading to the antifreeze was multi-functional, shutting off the line to the tank and opening the one to the antifreeze. I do believe that blowing out the lines is causing a problem also so probably more than one way to fix the problem. Guess I will try to find this 5th valve when we pull it out of storage the first week of March.

 

[jbeletti]

Sheri and Bob,

I don't think you will have 5 valves. When we made the change to the handle-style water heater bypass valve and the handle-style winterize valve, we eliminated the need for the 5 finger turn-style valves used in previous model years.

Jim

 

[RVFun4Us]

Dave: Your 3400 evidently has valved on the outside of the UDC. My 3055 has the valves behind the wall.

Jim: My 2008 3055 does not have the handle-style pulls. They are all the 5-finger turn style valves. So I guess that means there may be a fifth valve that I have not located between the pump and water tank. Am I right?

 

[RVFun4Us]

To everyone curious about my problem in pulling antifreeze out of the containers, last week I pulled my Big Horn out of storage for a week and camped. Since we are still having freezing temps, I rewinterized but this time looked for this fifth valve between the pump and fresh water tank. Sure enough, there was one. It was on the backside of the water line and not visible from the wall opening. Just felt around back there and located it. So after turning that valve off and opening the pickup tube to the antifreeze, it worked great. One more lesson learned on our Big Horn.

 

[irvin56]

That's why I like this Forum

You will get an answer from someone about what and where to find a solution to the question.

Nobody running you down and saying your stupid. Like some other forums on the net do.

 

[klindgren]

You will get an answer from someone about what and where to find a solution to the question.

Nobody running you down and saying your stupid. Like some other forums on the net do.

That's why I love this forum so much. I'm not big on posting anywhere else cuz you get suspect information (mostly UNeducated opininons) and have to take a ration of crap about what you should know but don't.

I've never seen any of that on the HL forum. Just helpful FRIENDLY tips and suggestions. You all are the greatest.

thanks much

 

[Duramax1]

What is the benefit of blowing out the water lines when installing antifreeze?

 

[katkens]

What is the benefit of blowing out the water lines when installing antifreeze?

I use the compressor to blow out my black tank flush , so I just blow everything out since its there. I like the idea of a more concentrated fluid in the pipes and I seem to use less antifreeze......KENNY

 

[jbeletti]

I'm with Kenny - higher concentration. That said, not sure the higher concentration matters. But it makes me feel good

I also like the thought of pushing ALL the water out - just in case I have a miss on getting anti-freeze in. Then for those that have ice makers, to me, using compressed air is a little nicer than having anti-freeze ice cubes for a while after de-winterizing

Plus it's a great opportunity to use another toy - compressed air, hoses, adapters

Jim