Taking heating unit out of RV

[DadGramps]

Have a Heartland Sundance 265S bumper pull that has been fantastic. I re-ran the waterlines that were under the floor to the kitchen and lavatory through the area under the shower and bunks, heated that area by tapping the 4 inch flex duct with a 2 inch duct to keep that below bunk warm. Now even in 25 below the water lines do not freeze if I have heat in the RV living space. This was a great modification to make!

Now my problem is that the heating unit in my RV has no outdoor access panel like many do. It only has the round exhaust vent and fresh air intake vent (a combination inlet/outet on the outside wall)

I want to add a duct to the unit to give the living space more heat by running a new line through the cabinet under the TV and pointing it out towards the entry door.

I don't see any access to getting to the unit and trying to do this through the return air grille would be impossible. I'd also like to wire the heater fan with a low voltage switch that will allow me to turn on the fan without the heater running in case I run out of propane but have a heafty ele. heater that can produce enough heat to be pulled in through the return grille and distributed throughout the RV. My return air grille now has a removable/washable filter on the inside of it which I hope helps to keep dust bunnies/hair and other stuff from fouling my sail switch

Anyone have any idea how to get to the heater without pulling cabinets or the stove or? Is there an outside access door that can be put in to accomodate the fresh air and exhaust air requirements plus give me access to the unit for removal or replacement?

This was not a well thought of design in my opinion. I'm a 72 year old retired master plumber-hvac contractor-electrical contractor-asbestos abatement contractor-Architectural Barriers certified for ADA compliance and home bulider. So I've seen a lot of stuff and I don't think this was given much thought.

Thanks
Gramps

 

[jerryjay11]

Not knowing the year, is there a grill inside where the heater is? I'm looking at a pic of a 265S and see a black grill under the stove. This is where you have to remove your furnace.

 

[DadGramps]

My bad. 2021 265 BH is my model. Sorry for the mistake. When I saw your post it dawned on me.

I have the large grille at the floor that is the Return Air opening. I filtered the back side to protect the sail switch.

To the right of it is a 4 drawer cabinet. To the left of it is an upper cabinet/lower cabinet/TV cabinet. All in one. 40 inches wide and goes from floor to ceiling. It is an angled cabinet. Right hand side is standard depth but left hand side is shallower. Inverter and main wiring come into the lower part of it.

Outside I only have the standard outlet that handles incoming fresh air and out going combustion air. No access door to open so I figure I have to get down on my new replacement knees and use my triplett of lumbar discs to see into it and try to disconnect everything to pull it out through the RA Grille. It's big enough to pull it out through but this is a strange way to access appliances. There really should be an access door to allow removal from outside; or a door you can buy and have put in to be able to do so.

All I want is to be able to check it yearly, clear out the sail switch if it clogs up and in this current wish, to add a duct to the main area.
I have to have access to all sides or pull it out each year. Yeah I'm one of those guys that service everything each year. I even replace my anode rod every 6 months and clean the AC filters monthly.

I use it a lot, travel all the time to fish, hunt, hike with my hunting dog, scuba, go to cook outs and such; and I need it up and running without any problems if at all possible all the time.

Thanks
Gramps

 

[jerryjay11]

So, I finally figured out you have the Sundance Ultra Lite model. That return vent (under the stove) is where you'll have to remove the furnace. This is pretty much typical removal. My last two campers were the same. I pulled mine a couple times with 1 knew knee and the other needing replacement and my back is no so hot either. Pulling it out isn't that hard. Just make sure you disconnect all wiring and ducting. Putting it back in and lining up the air/exhaust is tricky as it drops a bit. Easier with a second person outside aligning the tube.

 

[Hollandt]

Have a Heartland Sundance 265S bumper pull that has been fantastic. I re-ran the waterlines that were under the floor to the kitchen and lavatory through the area under the shower and bunks, heated that area by tapping the 4 inch flex duct with a 2 inch duct to keep that below bunk warm. Now even in 25 below the water lines do not freeze if I have heat in the RV living space. This was a great modification to make!

Now my problem is that the heating unit in my RV has no outdoor access panel like many do. It only has the round exhaust vent and fresh air intake vent (a combination inlet/outet on the outside wall)

I want to add a duct to the unit to give the living space more heat by running a new line through the cabinet under the TV and pointing it out towards the entry door.

I don't see any access to getting to the unit and trying to do this through the return air grille would be impossible. I'd also like to wire the heater fan with a low voltage switch that will allow me to turn on the fan without the heater running in case I run out of propane but have a heafty ele. heater that can produce enough heat to be pulled in through the return grille and distributed throughout the RV. My return air grille now has a removable/washable filter on the inside of it which I hope helps to keep dust bunnies/hair and other stuff from fouling my sail switch

Anyone have any idea how to get to the heater without pulling cabinets or the stove or? Is there an outside access door that can be put in to accomodate the fresh air and exhaust air requirements plus give me access to the unit for removal or replacement?

This was not a well thought of design in my opinion. I'm a 72 year old retired master plumber-hvac contractor-electrical contractor-asbestos abatement contractor-Architectural Barriers certified for ADA compliance and home bulider. So I've seen a lot of stuff and I don't think this was given much thought.

Thanks
Gramps

You may want to consider this: Cheap Heat: https://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/