Tank valves

[sjrellis]

Not sure this will make complete sense, but hopefully ya'll will know what I'm trying to say!

Jim says that he is going to have to change the dump tank (black first) valves(?). They are difficult to open and he thinks the black is also leaking at the valve. So, has anyone replaced these valves? Are they a universal size? How do you get to them? Anthing else you can tell me that I can print out and give to him.

Thanks!

 

[fljlcw]

there above the belly skin not sure where on your model our 3580 is ahead of the drain

 

[cjbearden]

sjrellis, we recently had the black tank valve on our 2009 Landmark Augusta replaced. We had a tech from Camper Clinic in Rockport, TX come to our park site. Took him several hours and was a big mess (have to completely dump the black tank, rinsing until everything runs clear). The underbelly has to be dropped to access the valve and jack up the black tank. When old valve is removed, more 'stuff' will be released. The tech was soaked by the time he finished the job. Getting to screws was a nightmare because valve was real close to a cross brace.

If you are near Buda, TX, Camper Clinic also has a service center there. But your dealer or any other HL servicer should be able to fix you up. I know this doesn't answer all your questions but hope it helps. The valve originally was a low priced generic, non-adjustable valve. Replacement is a standard heavier duty, adjustable valve. Good luck on getting your issue resolved.

 

[JohnDar]

Had a similar problem with our previous TT. Removing the sewer cap resulted in a spray, even after draining and flushing the tanks from previous trips. Solution was to attach a Valterra valve to the sewer fitting and leave it there. I added a clear extension from the sewer to the new valve to allow clearance for the main valve handles and to make it easier to connect the hose. The original fitting was low and under the TT, sort of like milking a cow getting hooked up.

If nothing else, it will buy you some time until you can get your coach to a dealer for repair, rather than subjecting some poor traveling tech to a blue/green bath.

 

[HappyKayakers]

I would try some WD-40 on the cables before changing out the valves. We've been fulltiming in our BH 3600 since spring of '06, still on the original blade valves. That's not to say we haven't had a few problems.
I had to remove the black tank valve because it was leaking (probably similar to yours). The problem was TP getting stuck on the end of the blade so it wouldn't close completely. After cleaning it off, I made sure that only clear water was running through the clear elbow before closing the black tank valve. I'm now a firm believer in the tank flusher system.
Also had a problem with gray 1. When I opened the valve on a full tank, water would only dribble out. Took that valve out and discovered a tank cutout blocking most of the pipe.
So, the valve wasn't the problem in either case but still needed to be removed. Another poster was correct about the nuts around the valve casing. The nuts closest to the frame were a real pain to get to.

 

[jpmorgan37]

There are also lubricants that you can put in your tanks that supposedly help make the valves work smoother. I've never used them but some people say they help. I, like Joe, use the black tank flush every time I dump, and also have a back flusher that I have used on occasion for my gray tanks. I leave the gray tank valves open most of the time. We have been in our fifth wheel full timing for three years also and am still on the original valves. Another thing that I do is to add a small amount of Calgon water softener to the black tank after each dump. It helps to keep the level gauges working properly.

John