Has anyone done this little project on the Sealand 210 yet? I just picked up the seal replacement kit and will probably tackle the job tomorrow. Just wondering if there are any 'gotchas' I need to watch out for.
Yes !!
SmokeyBare did and gave a great photo guide.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php?t=11582
This is one of the things that I am going to do also..
By the way. I called Dometic (Sealand) they said the commodes have a 2 yr warranty and maybe a 3 year. This may enable you to call them and have someone come out and repair if for you under warranty.
Call them first before getting it repaired.
Thanks Smokey for the great detail
BTW
JimB.. A thought here.
Is there a way we can make a place to store great examples of how and what to do about repairing things like this.. I just happen to save the URL of this thread for future use..
Also, if anyone else is intrested, You can take and make a folder on your computer and copy URL's (web addresses) to it and if you need to know something about a subject you can go to that folder and launch that web page..
Such as:
C:/Bighorn/Commode
C:/Bighorn/Landing Gear
C:/Bighorn/Tires
C:/Bighorn/Pinbox
C:/Bighorn/waterheater
Also, if anyone else is intrested, You can take and make a folder on your computer and copy URL's (web addresses) to it and if you need to know something about a subject you can go to that folder and launch that web page..
Such as:
C:/Bighorn/Commode
C:/Bighorn/Landing Gear
C:/Bighorn/Tires
C:/Bighorn/Pinbox
C:/Bighorn/waterheater
This is a great suggestion! Makes it much easier to find what you need.
I took it one step further...printed out the posts that I think relevant and keep them in a notebook. This way it is easy for me, while in the garage, to find information I need. I use the back side of printed material to help save a tree or two.
Has anyone done this little project on the Sealand 210 yet? I just picked up the seal replacement kit and will probably tackle the job tomorrow. Just wondering if there are any 'gotchas' I need to watch out for.
I've changed it twice... biggest challenge is getting the top portion to seat properly after you install the new seals. If not seated properly, it leaks.
If after replacing the seal, the joint leaks behind the stainless steel band thats used to hold it together, tighten the draw band some more. The by tightening the draw band, it causes the two surfaces to squeeze together tightly, making a water tight seal.
Project completed this morning, all back together, no leaks! I decided not to try and pry off the water line to the top portion. It was held on by a small hose clamp. Hose wouldn't move easily after loosening the clamp so I got DW to just hold the top portion while I cleaned and replaced seals. If I do it again, though, I'll use nut drivers instead of a screwdriver.
On ours, the hose and vacuum breaker is just slid into a rubber grommet on the back side of the bowl. in pops in and out real easy. the only hard part was loosening the screw the hold the plastic cover on over the valve, but it can be done with a Phillips bit and a 1/4" wrench.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.