Two 12V batteries flat in 7 hours, normal?
- Thread starter lakeside
- Start date
Lakeside,
I have a Landmark, but the issue sounds the same. The 12v part of my Yeti came "always on" from the factory. Heartland recognized the issue and the answer was to add another switch to rectify the problem. So I now have 2 switches to operate the Yeti.
Hope this helps,
John
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
OPer here. This is a follow up about the issue I had last fall while dry camping with two 12V batteries draining flat over a seven hour period with no visible usage other than the refrigerator running on 12V/LP and the carbon monoxide/smoke detector constant draw.
Some of what folks have said what the problem might be was very close. I thank you all for the good information.
I took the 5er to the dealer today and we started from the batteries and searched for a ghost power draw. The volt meter read 5.25 amps as a constant draw with nothing on inside the 5er other than carbon monoxide/smoke detector. By isolating every wire on the relay bar just over the batteries, we found when we disconnected the Yetti package wire the meter dropped to .25 amps. Presto, the Yetti system was drawing 5 amps and the Yetti on / off switch was in the OFF position.
A call to Heartland proved successful. "Quote", "The 12V side of the Yetti system that controls power to the heat tape on the water line is ALWAYS drawing 5 amps regardless whether or not the switch on the electrical panel is on or off. The switch on the panel controls the 120V power to the tank heater pads only. The newer Bighorns coming off the factory line NOW have an additional switch to control the 12V power feed to the water line heat tape". When my unit was manufactured, (March 2013) there was no switch on the 12V line to the water line heat tape, meaning it was continually drawing 5 amps off the battery pack. This fact really means this Bighorn was NOT manufactured to run off the grid because the batteries would go flat over a seven hour period.
The fix to this problem for me is to remove the Yetti package fuse from the fuse panel. If I wish to use the Yetti package to keep my tanks and water lines from freezing up in cold weather, I will reinstall the fuse.
Now I will ask you folks if I should be happy with this fix after paying $1000 to Heartland for this Yetti package option. I would bet most folks would say that this is NOT an acceptable fix for my issue?
O.K. Heartland, you have been great to deal with so far. How about sending me a new switch for the 12V side of my Yetti system and a few instructions on how to best connect it? This action would certainly make me once again a very satisfied customer.
Lakeside
Some of what folks have said what the problem might be was very close. I thank you all for the good information.
I took the 5er to the dealer today and we started from the batteries and searched for a ghost power draw. The volt meter read 5.25 amps as a constant draw with nothing on inside the 5er other than carbon monoxide/smoke detector. By isolating every wire on the relay bar just over the batteries, we found when we disconnected the Yetti package wire the meter dropped to .25 amps. Presto, the Yetti system was drawing 5 amps and the Yetti on / off switch was in the OFF position.
A call to Heartland proved successful. "Quote", "The 12V side of the Yetti system that controls power to the heat tape on the water line is ALWAYS drawing 5 amps regardless whether or not the switch on the electrical panel is on or off. The switch on the panel controls the 120V power to the tank heater pads only. The newer Bighorns coming off the factory line NOW have an additional switch to control the 12V power feed to the water line heat tape". When my unit was manufactured, (March 2013) there was no switch on the 12V line to the water line heat tape, meaning it was continually drawing 5 amps off the battery pack. This fact really means this Bighorn was NOT manufactured to run off the grid because the batteries would go flat over a seven hour period.
The fix to this problem for me is to remove the Yetti package fuse from the fuse panel. If I wish to use the Yetti package to keep my tanks and water lines from freezing up in cold weather, I will reinstall the fuse.
Now I will ask you folks if I should be happy with this fix after paying $1000 to Heartland for this Yetti package option. I would bet most folks would say that this is NOT an acceptable fix for my issue?
O.K. Heartland, you have been great to deal with so far. How about sending me a new switch for the 12V side of my Yetti system and a few instructions on how to best connect it? This action would certainly make me once again a very satisfied customer.
Lakeside
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Lakeside,
Newer builds have a dual switch Yeti control. Perhaps if you call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030 and ask them about it, they might agree to send it to you at no charge. Have your VIN # ready.
Before intstalling the tank heater wiring to the new switch, make sure it's compatible. At one time the tank heaters ran off 110V AC. I think they now might be 12V DC. You can use a 110V switch on a 12V installation, but not the reverse.
dave10a
Well-known member
Installing one of these in series with the battery would be a good idea. http://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html
dave10a
Well-known member
Installing a proper sized shunt (100amp in my case) on the negative side of the battery will allow you monitor with a DVM the net current when charging or current drain when not charging. This allows one to see if the batteries are going bad as an indirect way of watching the batteries impedance; see if the charger is functioning properly; and to see any current drain with the main battery switched off when storing.
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