Use of Emergency Break-Away (when changing RV tire)
- Thread starter jomimac
- Start date
Re: jomimac
You could do that but why? It's going to draw down your electrical power, heat up the brakes and may not lock them as much as you they will. Why not crack all the lug nuts loose prior to jacking up that axle? That's standard procedure if one does not have a impact gun.
You could do that but why? It's going to draw down your electrical power, heat up the brakes and may not lock them as much as you they will. Why not crack all the lug nuts loose prior to jacking up that axle? That's standard procedure if one does not have a impact gun.
CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Re: jomimac
The OP stated that he had no tire on the rim so he could get it on the pavement. I’m not sure, but I believe if you pulled the breakaway cable to set the trailer brakes you might / could burn out the electric brake system. I also think I’ve heard that if he had disc brakes, electric over hydraulic it will not cause a problem.
I have disc brakes so I do have to check on this. How about it anyone have knowledge of this?
The OP stated that he had no tire on the rim so he could get it on the pavement. I’m not sure, but I believe if you pulled the breakaway cable to set the trailer brakes you might / could burn out the electric brake system. I also think I’ve heard that if he had disc brakes, electric over hydraulic it will not cause a problem.
I have disc brakes so I do have to check on this. How about it anyone have knowledge of this?
danemayer
Well-known member
Re: jomimac
If you pull the breakaway cable all the brakes will be energized at full power. They're not meant to do that very long and will overheat pretty quickly. You may end up with damaged brakes.
On disc brakes, the pump is not meant to be continuously activated and I think my manual cautions against holding the brakes at a long traffic light.
If you were to pull the breakaway cable in order to loosen the lugnuts, put it back as soon as they're loose. Don't wait to get the new wheel on.
If you pull the breakaway cable all the brakes will be energized at full power. They're not meant to do that very long and will overheat pretty quickly. You may end up with damaged brakes.
On disc brakes, the pump is not meant to be continuously activated and I think my manual cautions against holding the brakes at a long traffic light.
If you were to pull the breakaway cable in order to loosen the lugnuts, put it back as soon as they're loose. Don't wait to get the new wheel on.
Gary521
Well-known member
Re: jomimac
I cannot imaging a situation where the blown out tire would not be in contact with the ground. As suggested, loosen the lug nuts before jacking the axle. Do the reverse when putting the new tire on. However, If this is possible, have somebody step on the brake momentarily.
I cannot imaging a situation where the blown out tire would not be in contact with the ground. As suggested, loosen the lug nuts before jacking the axle. Do the reverse when putting the new tire on. However, If this is possible, have somebody step on the brake momentarily.
CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Re: jomimac
OP stated no tire left on the rim.
OP stated no tire left on the rim.
I've yet to experience a blow out that the entire tire came off the rim. Not saying it can't happen. But usually there's enough tire left that it can make contact with the ground enough to break the lugs loose, or you can wedge something under it that will help it grab. But here are some suggestions that may or may not work.
1. Carry blocks of wood or other material that can be stacked high enough so that you can lift the rim in question, block it up, then let the rim back down on top of the blocks to hold it to break lugs loose.
2. Not sure if they have enough extension to them, but possibly use one of the "X-Chocks" that fit between the tires. If it will extend far enough, it should add enough leverage to hold the wheel. Can possibly stick a board or something in to make up the gap if needed.
3. If you have a passenger, have them hold the brake on the truck just long enough to break the lugs loose.
4. In a real pinch, remove other tire(s) on that side then lower the trailer until wheel rests on ground.
5. Buy a cordless impact wrench to keep in your tool kit, then you wouldn't need to worry about it.
1. Carry blocks of wood or other material that can be stacked high enough so that you can lift the rim in question, block it up, then let the rim back down on top of the blocks to hold it to break lugs loose.
2. Not sure if they have enough extension to them, but possibly use one of the "X-Chocks" that fit between the tires. If it will extend far enough, it should add enough leverage to hold the wheel. Can possibly stick a board or something in to make up the gap if needed.
3. If you have a passenger, have them hold the brake on the truck just long enough to break the lugs loose.
4. In a real pinch, remove other tire(s) on that side then lower the trailer until wheel rests on ground.
5. Buy a cordless impact wrench to keep in your tool kit, then you wouldn't need to worry about it.
CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Re: jomimac
Good catch Dan. I was unsure about that, but just found my owners manual and it mentions not using the service brakes for extended stops such as railroad crossing stops. I’d never have given that a thought, but I am lazy so I often toss the truck into park at such events.Gues I dodged that bullet.
Thanks
Good catch Dan. I was unsure about that, but just found my owners manual and it mentions not using the service brakes for extended stops such as railroad crossing stops. I’d never have given that a thought, but I am lazy so I often toss the truck into park at such events.Gues I dodged that bullet.
Thanks
wdk450
Well-known member
If you DON"T have electric over hydraulic disk brakes, that is conventional electric trailer brakes, ENERGIZING THE TRAILER BRAKES WHILE STANDING STILL WILL HAVE NO BRAKING EFFECT!!!! Conventional electric trailer brakes have a magnet that when energized sticks to the brake drum inner vertical surface, AND WITH WHEEL ROTATION pivots an arm separating the brake shoes into contact with the brake drum braking surface. NO VEHICLE MOTION, NO BRAKING!!!
danemayer
Well-known member
Bill,
If the wheel is stationary, you're correct. But with weight off the wheel, I'm pretty sure a slight forward turn of the wheel, by hand, with brake magnet activated, will pivot the arm and lock the wheel.
Once you engage the brakes, it takes about 1/4 turn of the wheel then the brake locks up. I tested this before my last trip to ensure that all my brakes were engaging, and that the emergency switch was working (which it wasn't so I replaced it and now it's good to go).
Gaffer
Well-known member
CoveredWagon
Well-known member
Just let the DW. Change the tire. 
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