I have looked and done a search and haven't found the answer to a question. hope I have posted in the proper place. we will be staying full time in southeast Missouri or northwest Arkansas during the winter. we will be in a big horn 3575el. will we be able to use the washing machine when temperatures are below freezing? if not, what are going to have to do to keep the lines going to the washer from freezing. thanks in advance to all who have the experience.
using washer during freezing temps
- Thread starter mecastle
- Start date
boatto5er
Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
It's unlikely you will have problems with the washer freezing, but the lines leading to it are susceptible. If you can trace the lines to the washer, you could install cutoff switches with a drain in them. Then when colder weather was forecast you could cut off that line and drain it. OR, wrap the lines with heat tape/insulation. As long as you have propane and the furnace running you should have some protection.
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danemayer
Well-known member
We use our washing machine in extreme cold weather in Colorado. We're currently on our 6th extended ski trip.
The water lines run through a raceway just inside the doorside front pass-through storage hatch - same raceway where our auto-level control panel is mounted.
We've never had a problem with the washing machine lines freezing, even at -30 (F) when both the kitchen and bathroom lines froze. We've since put heat tape and insulation on all water lines with the exception of the washing machine lines. However, last Fall, I did install cutoff valves in that raceway so that if there ever is a problem, I can shut off the water to just those lines.
The water lines run through a raceway just inside the doorside front pass-through storage hatch - same raceway where our auto-level control panel is mounted.
We've never had a problem with the washing machine lines freezing, even at -30 (F) when both the kitchen and bathroom lines froze. We've since put heat tape and insulation on all water lines with the exception of the washing machine lines. However, last Fall, I did install cutoff valves in that raceway so that if there ever is a problem, I can shut off the water to just those lines.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Just curious Dan, do you leave the grey tank open to run the washer? Any issues there with freezing?
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danemayer
Well-known member
I haven't run with the gray tank open in the winter since burning a hole in the tank our first winter. I do have to dump the gray tanks at least every other day, and on days where we do 2 or 3 loads of laundry, I have to dump the gray tanks that day for sure.
thanks boatto5er and danemayer for the responses. I was hoping we were going to be ok. I plan on having extra heat in the pass through and udc. I will also run the furnace and will have a couple 20# propane tanks as spares. will also be prepared to skirt with 1" thick styrafoam if it gets very cold.
hope there is nothing else I am overlooking.
hope there is nothing else I am overlooking.
danemayer
Well-known member
Check out our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide.
If you have a residential refrigerator, you need to winterize the water feed line. Instructions are in the Residential Refrigerator Guide.
If you have a residential refrigerator, you need to winterize the water feed line. Instructions are in the Residential Refrigerator Guide.
danemayer
Well-known member
The "freeze" problem is the same if you have a gas absorption refrigerator with an ice maker.
Our 2011 has a Dometic RM1350 with ice maker and water feed. I got tired of winterizing the line, so one day I left the water cutoff in the OFF position and I took the ice tray out of the freezer and started using the space for food.
But if you camp without shore power, a gas absorption refrigerator is a better choice because it doesn't use nearly as much electricity as a residential unit.
danemayer, you're are spot on about the fridge differences. that is why after getting all the info on this forum from everybody that has been there and done that, we will not have a fridge that has a ice maker. we are going old school and using ice trays. will suit us just fine. thanks for the info.
Hi Dan,
I just purchased a 2011 BigHorn with the Dometic RM1350 with ice maker. The line was frozen and broke where it feeds up from the outside lower refrigerator vent just past the solenoid valve. Easy to fix at the dealer, but I noticed there is no cut-off valve. I checked in the drawer under the fridge- nothing. I would assume it is recommended to install a cut-off valve with drain. Where is the best place? Also, winterizing- do you run pink juice or just drain? How do you protect the solenoid?
Sorry for the ignorance - new to the whole Ice Maker in the RV thing.
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Carleen,
As the saying goes, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask.
The cutoff valve for the water feed on your 2011 BH is probably behind the Universal Docking Center (UDC) where the water connects to the trailer. You'll have to take down the rear wall of the pass through basement storage to get to it. That will also give you access to the water pump.
We've got some owner-written user guides, including a Winterization Guide that will walk you through how to winterize your trailer, including the Dometic RM1350 refrigerator. On page 11, there's even a picture of the cutoff valve behind the UDC.
If you plan on using the ice maker and water feed, I'd suggest using compressed air on the refrigerator. Antifreeze can leave a taste in the plastic feed line.
For the rest of the trailer, after closing the ice maker water feed valve, and draining/bypassing the water heater, you'll probably do better with antifreeze. If you have washer/dryer prep, don't forget those lines and drain.
After I posted the question- I did find the user guide you mentioned. What a fantastic guide! I have downloaded it on my phone for use this fall. We also have a Splindide vented 2100XC washer/dryer combo and read the information about winterizing it. I was able to test it over the weekend and it works great!
While looking for the leak for the black flush, I removed the walls in the basement so I could find the source. It would make sense to have the valve behind the UDC- right off the source so you could drain the entire line out rather than just part of it. I am wondering if I can design a hinged door system for that portion of the wall so access to that area is easy. The screws aren't holding it in place anyway and a hinge with locks would likely do better. I will post pictures if I am able to.
Thanks again for your help!
While looking for the leak for the black flush, I removed the walls in the basement so I could find the source. It would make sense to have the valve behind the UDC- right off the source so you could drain the entire line out rather than just part of it. I am wondering if I can design a hinged door system for that portion of the wall so access to that area is easy. The screws aren't holding it in place anyway and a hinge with locks would likely do better. I will post pictures if I am able to.
Thanks again for your help!
