Water leaks while flushing black tank

[hampvett]

My wife and I purchased a 2014 North Trail Caliber 30RKDD 08/2014. To this date we have made seven 2-4 night trips. The last two outings we noticed clear water leaking from the bottom of the trailer after emptying the front grey and black water tanks. The carpet by the shower was also wet. The leaks are occurring when I hook up the hose and spray flush the black tank. Both grey and black water tank valves are open when I do this. The water is dripping and trailing along the frame above the valves. The shower is located above the front valves.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Mike Hampton
Orlando, Fl.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the posting side of the owners forum.

The black tank flush typically has an anti-siphon valve that prevents contaminated water from the black tank flush from making it's way back to the water inlet. It sounds like that valve is leaking. If your shower has an access panel to get to the water lines, you'll probably find the valve back there and can evaluate the leak.

Some people have removed the valve, replacing it with an external check-valve.

 

[hampvett]

Dan-

Thank you for your reply. I will locate and check the anti-siphon valve.

Mike

 

[sengli]

Most common issue is the anti siphon valve, mine has leaked on both of my fifth wheels. So this time I cut to the chase and removed that valve, and its extra plumbing run... and replaced it with an inline brass ball valve. So now my flush line goes directly from the inlet in the UDC, to the black tank. Now when I use that black tank flush, I turn on that valave and use the flush, with never a worry of any further leaks.

 

[GWRam]

sengli,
Do you have any photos of the ball valve installed and where in the line it goes. I'm not having any problems yet and would like to avoid any if I can.
Dave


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[Gary521]

Use a Check valve.

 

[GWRam]

Where do you put the valve so it's not hidden in the wall like the anti siphon is now?


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[wdk450]

This plastic "atmospheric anti-siphon valve" is REQUIRED in new RV construction by RV building codes, and is supposed to be located 6 inches above the highest drain. Although this is in the toilet black tank system, for some reason the builders are locating this 6 inches or more above the bathroom sink drain (on its own separate shower/sink tank). The bottom line is that this plastic valve blows apart under high pressure water conditions causing flooding damage (It flooded out my $200 power converter). The codes requirement for this valve are curious, since you can buy an aftermarket tank sprayer at the RV stores that does NOT have this valve, just a check valve.

Here is an updated sheet on the B&B Tank flusher system, that FINALLY has a maximum pressure rating printed. But also note caution point #6 on the first page: "Vac/Check cannot be installed in an inaccessible location where venting of water from device during NORMAL operation causes damage." (word "Normal" has my emphasis). This implies that the valve NORMALLY can leak water. Leaking water is something you do not want anywhere inside an RV.

In making the repair on my system, I replaced the plastic valve with a Sharkbite brand brass check valve: http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Brass-Push-Fit-Check-Valve-U2008-0000LFA/202721919 . I also needed 2 Sharkbite right angle fittings ( http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202270510-_-N ) to make everything work, since the original valve is right angle, and the normal installation is a "U" PEX tubing routing. You can cut the PEX tubing with a knife or heavy scissors, and scrape out the inside of the cut clean and put a small bevel on the outside edge, to use the Sharkbite fittings - No need for a special tool. The fittings are also available on Amazon.com.

 

[Gary521]

You can attach a check valve right behind the UDC . The idea is so that you don't get any backup. I did this to mine and it works well. Bypass the existing antisiphon valve with a little PEX plumbing.

 

[Gary521]

Now that I think about it, I got the new check valve at Camping World. It replaces the existing water inlet for the flush system.

 

[Gary521]

This is the valve I was referring to:

http://www.valterra.com/product/water-inlet-2-3-4-flange-mpt-lead-free-brass-white-bulk/?pcat_id=1235

 

[Bob&Patty]

You may have the valve leaking...but how much water pressure are you putting to the flusher. Too much pressure will make the valve leak. Don't ask how I know. No more than 50 PSI is recomended to all HL trailers.

 

[Gary521]

The guy that plumbed my flush system had his head somewhere else. Part of the flush system was a flexible line that was laying directly on the voltage convertor. The warm convertor was causing the flexible line to have a nice kink in it. Check your line out. You might be amazed. Eliminating the antisyphon does not compromise anything.

 

[GWRam]

If i'm getting this correctly, I can take out the current anti siphon valve and use the hose attach point anti siphon valve at the black tank flush hose connection point with no worries and have the same anti siphon protection the plumbing codes are worrying about?

I could then remove about 10' of waterline running around my basement and then up into my shower wall.
Do I understand correctly?

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[branson4020]

As far as plumbing codes go, a single check valve is not the same as an antisiphon device like a vacuum breaker. If you want to do it right, keep the vacuum breaker.

 

[sengli]

So yah, after you cut the pex line coming out of the back of the UDC, find the run( mine was a flexible white water line..not pex) going to the black tank flush fitting in the black tank, and obviously connect it to the output side of your new shut off valve you need to install. Makes it so much simpler. I kept the extra pex runs that went to that anti-siphon valve assembly, in case anyone ever wanted them. But seriously code, makes them install this anti siphon valve and it is crap. Do a forum search on here and you will see this is a very hot topic. I actually went and got a access door and installed in in the basement wall, so when I need to I can not only actuate the new black tank valve as needed. But I can now moniter all the water lines behind the basement wall, to make sure I dont have any surprises, whenever

 

[hampvett]

My wife and I went camping this past weekend. In the past when I accessed the tank flush I had turned the water faucet completely open. That is when the leaks were occurring. I opened it about 1/3 this time. With less water pressure there was no evidence of water leaks. I did call the service center to explain what had occurred. The person I spoke with said there have been problems with the anti siphon valve. He said it is a bit more difficult to access on the 30RKDD. I will have the valve replaced with the Sharkbite brand brass check valve. Thanks to all for the useful input.

Mike and Deenie Hampton
Orlando, Fl

2014 Northtrail Caliber 30RKDD
2014 Ram 2500 Cummins

 

[rxbristol]

I just replaced the cheap value with a Watts LF288A. Easy, in code, problem solved.

 

[wdk450]

I just replaced the cheap value with a Watts LF288A. Easy, in code, problem solved.

View attachment 33461

If I had been able to find this valve anywhere (including the internet) at the time I had my blowout 18 months ago, I would have gone this route.

Thanks for the info. This would be nice to store somewhere in the Systems Guides

 

[danemayer]

If I had been able to find this valve anywhere (including the internet) at the time I had my blowout 18 months ago, I would have gone this route.

Thanks for the info. This would be nice to store somewhere in the Systems Guides

Good idea Bill.