CoveredWagon
Well-known member
It could be as simple as a bad/corroded to valve. It happens. I change that first.
But that just me.
Water weeping from hot water tank pressure valve.
- Thread starter Sudsman
- Start date
But that just me.
That’s the frustrating part, I did the the bleed out air thing, it weeped, I chGed the T / P valve with a new one, it weeped, i used only electrical for heating, it weeped, I used only gas to heat, it weeped. think I may remove the pressure regulator from the system and try that.
It is adjustable, yesterday I dropped the incoming pressure to 10 PSI, then ran it up to 60 PSI. Ran water then lowered it to the normal 50 PSI. Still weeps. Grrrrrrrrrrr!
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
looking like a defective valve seat in the T/P. Take it back & get a new one. At 10 psi the should never weep
It is adjustable, yesterday I dropped the incoming pressure to 10 PSI, then ran it up to 60 PSI. Ran water then lowered it to the normal 50 PSI. Still weeps. Grrrrrrrrrrr!
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It is adjustable, yesterday I dropped the incoming pressure to 10 PSI, then ran it up to 60 PSI. Ran water then lowered it to the normal 50 PSI. Still weeps. Grrrrrrrrrrr!
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jerryjay11
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You can google directions, but they are normally installed on the cold-water supply and works for the whole water system, water pump or city supply.
SLO
Well-known member
With everything you’ve done so far it seems clear thermal expansion is your problem. As the water heats it expands in the water heater tank. Normally water heaters are designed to expand into the incoming cold water line. Our RVs are a closed water system. The check valve in the incoming city water connection is what makes it a closed system. Since the expanding hot water cannot expand past the incoming check valve, the pressure builds up in the water heater. Once it gets to 150 psi your T & P valve leaks. Perhaps the water heater thermostat runs a little longer than it should causing pressure to build. jerryjay11 and Thystra gave you the correct answer, an expansion tank. Sometimes looking at a posters profile will give you some insight into to their answers. jerryjay11 has HVAC an appliance experiance, giving more weight to his answer. One other thing. The air chamber at the top of the water heater tank, recommended by Suburban, only works until you turn on a hot water faucet. As soon as the hot water is used the air is forced out of the tank. You’d have to create the air chamber again every time you use hot water. Not very practical.
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jerryjay11
Well-known member
Correctly stated. "One other thing. The air chamber at the top of the water heater tank, recommended by Suburban, only works until you turn on a hot water faucet. As soon as the hot water is used the air is forced out of the tank. You’d have to create the air chamber again every time you use hot water. Not very practical."
A note about residential homes... Most homes today have Backflow preventers to keep home water system from pushing the water back to the supply source.
So does it work only during water pump usage? Currently my issue is when using city water, not water pump.
jerryjay11
Well-known member
jerryjay11
Well-known member
Sudsman
Yes, it works there. Once you hook up to city water all your water lines are at city pressure. A check valve is built into the pump to prevent backflow to the freshwater tank. So, everything after the pump is affected by city pressure. You can place the expansion tank just after the pump discharge line if accessible or anywhere in the system that is easy to get to. Typically, I would install anywhere in the cold-water supply. Only because I don't want the hot water to deform the bladder of the expansion tank.It works there - it just has to be inside any and all check valves. The pump is a cold water line and, at least on my unit, near the water heater. Allows any pressure build up to be easily absorbed by the expansion tank.
