What the manual doesn't tell you...

LookN4Ward

Active Member
Being a true rookie with a trailer you have a steep learning curve and one's anxieties don't help either. I started this thread so others can append things they have learned that was not in the manual. We bought our trailer and did the walk through, but it is impossible to remember everything. I even jotted notes.

When our trailer was delivered to our lot by the dealer the learning curve began despite all efforts to be prepared. The first thing I discover is that my electric cable won't reach the park hook-up. So buying an extension cable was the first order of business.

Next up was setting up the park water supply to the trailer inlet. Attach water pressure regular to spigot, attach hose to it, attach water filter, attach hose to water filter and to trailer water inlet. Not too much of a problem. Crap the hose connections are leaking. Work on those later.

Prepare water heater for use. Insert the anode rod into the water heater as instructed by dealer. Open the relief valve. Open the faucets. Turn on the water. Sound like things are going fine. Wrong, no hot water. Wait is there a switch we need to open. Yes, it is in the bathroom. Wait an hour, still no hot water. We have propane, don't know what is wrong. It's late, we're tired, will fight it in the morning.

Call dealer about water heater and he tells us that the water valves on the hot water heater need to be changed. Open top and bottom and close the middle. OK, find the screwdriver remove the access panel under the sink and sure enough there are three valves. Do as instructed. Ah Ha, water fills the hot water tank and the propane heats it up. Won't find this in any manual.

Water won't flow from the kitchen or bathroom sink faucets. Take the filter screens out and discover small plug in each sink outlet. Remove them and we're off and running. Didn't find this in any manual.

Got to make sure we can empty the two gray tanks and the black tank. Never worked with expandable sewer hose. Off to Camping World. Might take two trips. Buy more sewer hose and sewer connectors, one for each gray tank. Empty tanks. Hose not stretched taut so discover that gravity still works. Raise hose up and down at strategic points to get water moving. Stroke of fate, did the gray tank first.

Run to Camping World and buy one of those accordion sewer holders and this time stretch the hoses taut and by shortening if necessary. Wow how simple now to drain the tank.

The black tank test reader says two thirds full, how can that be? It has been only two days. Two people can possibly have 37 gallons of waste, but maybe?

Empty the tank, use the washout inlet for the black tank to rinse. Two days later same 2/3rd full. Ok, must be true. Drain again. After 10 days I suspect something must be wrong with the tester. So I run water into the stool until the tank is full. It takes a long time to fill the black tank with water holding your foot down on the toilet pedal. I confirm that 2/3rds full is not remotely close to 2/3rds full. Oh, don't forget the chemical for the toilet odor!

So now I am wondering if I run out of propane what will heat the water, I know the electric can do it. Don't know the answer, but I bet I'll figure it out rather than take a cold shower.

Now back to that leaky shower stall. :)
 
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trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
We have a Landmark, but if your water heater is like ours, there is a switch on the water heater near the tank drain plug for the electric.Turn this switch on and leave it on until you drain he tank for the winter.There should also be a switch for the electric inside your camper to turn on when you want to use electric. Hope this helps.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
What a great post. You're right, the manual is very basic and if an owner is a newbie it will be an interesting experience to say the least. I've been fortunate to have owned and camped in everything from a tent up to a class c and have learned a lot along the way. I'm still learning!!! As for your hot water heater, there is a small rocker switch outside under the heaters exterior access panel. Lower left side. There should be a clip pin in the switch. Pull the pin and turn the switch to on. You can leave it in this position. Inside the trailer to the right of your tank level meters, there should be a red switch to turn on the electric heating option for your water heater. Make sure the heater is full of water before using it on electric. You can also use both LP and electric at the same time for faster recovery but it's really not that necessary.
Remember, this forum is here to help so don't be shy. Ask away and maybe save yourself some time. Have you seen the movei RV? It's a bit over the top but still fun to watch. Good Luck with your learning experience.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Ray,,, That movie, RV, is a good one. I can almost put a persons name to every scene in the movie,,, and some appear several times in the movie. Even a couple from this forum...:D

Jim M
 

biggziff

Active Member
What a great post. You're right, the manual is very basic and if an ow Inside the trailer to the right of your tank level meters, there should be a red switch to turn on the electric heating option for your water heater.

Hey, Ray....

On all the units I've had in the past if the water heater is a DSI unit the red switch inside the rig turns the gas valve and spark unit on, not the electric element. The little switch outside turns on the electric. Are the Heartland units set up differently?

thanks
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
Hey, Ray....

On all the units I've had in the past if the water heater is a DSI unit the red switch inside the rig turns the gas valve and spark unit on, not the electric element. The little switch outside turns on the electric. Are the Heartland units set up differently?

thanks

They are set up as Ray describes , my previous SOB was the same setup......Kenny
 

Delaine and Lindy

Well-known member
Trail and Error ????

I hear about people and the PDI's and worrying about not asking enough questions or remembering what your told . Our first 5th wheel PDI was very short about 10 minutes and the person conducting the PDI was very young and she had never owned a RV of any type. And all the other PDI's were about the same. I really believe the first PDI was a great experience. The first trip was to Key West. Would you believe we didn't even know how to turn on the water heater. So our experience came from trail and error, lots of errors but we have taught ourselves. As for the manual, they are just about worthless. Don't know if I have ever used them except the first one. I can assure you if your in a RV park there is a wealth of experience there and most are more than willing to help in any way they can. Just don't be afraid to ask and no question is dumb. I think common sence is the best tool you can have in RVing and never worry about what you neighbor is think and they are watching, but remember that were at the stage your in now. GBY....
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Hey, Ray....

On all the units I've had in the past if the water heater is a DSI unit the red switch inside the rig turns the gas valve and spark unit on, not the electric element. The little switch outside turns on the electric. Are the Heartland units set up differently?

thanks

On our Sundance w/ DSI HWH, there is a small black rocker swith on the interior tank guage panel to turn on the GAS. Appropriately enough, the switch is labelled "Heater". There is a large "home" type red lighted switch to turn on the Electric HWH (it is also labelled). You also have to turn on the small rocker switch outside in the HWH compartment for the Electric option to work. We leave the exterior switch on all the time.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
One BIG thing to remember is to be sure the water heater is full of water BEFORE turning on the electric switch. If not it will burn out the heater element in a matter of seconds.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Hey, Ray....

On all the units I've had in the past if the water heater is a DSI unit the red switch inside the rig turns the gas valve and spark unit on, not the electric element. The little switch outside turns on the electric. Are the Heartland units set up differently?

thanks
biggziff, sorry for the confusion, There is a separate "red switch" to the right of the control panel. It is a flip switch just like a 110 volt light switch but it has a red lighted switch. It provides 110 volts to the water heater electric element. In addition, the rocker switch outside on the back side of the water heater must be on as well.
 

LookN4Ward

Active Member
I found a switch that is part of the water heater hidden behind the ventura pipe. I've attached a picture to aid in the hunt. The switch is a black rocker switch with a pin to keep it from being turned on. There are 4 permutations for the gas/electric water heater switches:

  • Both On
  • Both Off
  • Bathroom (propane) On, Exterior Water Heater Off
  • Bathroom (propane)Off, Exterior Water Heater On
Obviously Both Off is easy too understand, don't heat the water. Bathroom (propane) On and exterior Water Heater switch Off allows propane heating. Under what circumstances would you use Both ON or Bathroom (propane)Off and exterior Water Heater switch ON? :confused:
 

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jbeletti

Well-known member
Under what circumstances would you use Both ON or Bathroom Off and Water Heater ON? :confused:

If by bath, you mean propane, then the reason you might want to run the water heater on both propane and AC power, is when you want to heat the water faster or have a faster recovery rate when using a lot of hot water. It is safe to do, although I would shut one method off after I no longer needed both going.

Jim
 

lcdrdean

Active Member
Thanks for all the info on the various switches. I haven't tried the using the gas yet to heat the water, but had noticed the switch on the tank monitor panel and wondered what it was for. Now I know! My last camper didn't have a switch for the gas (at least from what I remember).
 

Iver

Active Member
Here is another "what the manual ....". The battery(s) needs to be checked for the level of acid. I checked yesterday after having the trailer for only 3 weeks (a 5 day trip included). Wound up adding about a Qt. of distilled water, total, to the two batteries. A suprise.
 

Cimriver

Well-known member
In every RV park there are many folks who have gone through the same learning curve as you have and are very willing to help out. I remember the first time I emptied the black tank, I was sure I would get some on me. I didn't!

I don't want to mention any names here but if one were to search for posts by patrick1945 one might just find an extremely funny post by someone who did!
 

wdk450

Well-known member
From what I have read over and over on this forum, and experienced, the Pre Delivery Inspection (PDI) by the dealer and rechecked by the buyer is CRITICAL to rolling a properly working RV off the lot after a sale. A complete PDI should involve 1-2 FULL days by the dealer, and 1/2 day or more buyer/dealer together. ANY NEW/PROSPECTIVE BUYERS OUT THERE SHOULD HEED THIS. ALL SYSTEMS SHOULD BE TESTED, FILLED, CONNECTED, AND READY TO USE. Go to the internet and Google "RV PDI". There are free ones and sets of RV forms (PDI, Pull Into Site, Pre-Departure) for sale. I picked this hit as an example: http://members.cox.net/agkcpa/pdi.htm Give the dealership a copy of your PDI checklist IN ADVANCE so they will know what you expect them to do.
I had a propane leak that would have been detected with a standard leak down test, Air conditioner low cooling problems (the RV lot did not have a 30 or 50 amp electrical service), 1/2 time oven didn't work properly, etc.
DO NOT BE IN SUCH A HURRY TO TAKE YOUR TRAILER HOME THAT YOU DON'T GET ALL THE PROBLEMS NOTED AND SCHEDULED FOR REPAIR. It is so much easier to get things noted and repairs scheduled in the beginning - not on the road.
 
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newbie

Northern Virginia
...I don't want to mention any names here but if one were to search for posts by patrick1945 one might just find an extremely funny post by someone who did!

Like this one: //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ste-water-tank?p=113278&viewfull=1#post113278
 

babycampers

Member
Evidently there is a tremendous difference in the level of service between dealerships, according to your post. Your dealer's service dept. should have done all these things for you before your unit even left their lot! My walk through was nearly an hour long to demonstrate all the procedures and we never had to do any of those steps ourselves that you have gone through. Edmunson's in Edinburgh, IN was an exceptional experience in buying our first "new" trailer and now I really appreciate them after reading of your experience. Good luck in the future with your trailer because it is still a great unit!!!
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
One BIG thing to remember is to be sure the water heater is full of water BEFORE turning on the electric switch. If not it will burn out the heater element in a matter of seconds.

This is CRITICAL! You will burn out the element in your HWH in a matter of seconds. There is a hole in the base of the switch located at the HWH and designed to insert a locking pin when the unit is off (the hole is only available when the switch is off). This prevents turning the switch to on as a reminder to fill the water tank prior to operating using AC. My pin was attached to a wire, next to the switch, as a holding place while not in use.
 
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