Winter package/Insulation.

[oscar]

Our 4100 King does not have the "yeti" "Canada" or whatever it's called package. We have NO intentions of going camping in sub freezing weather.

That said, right now it is sitting in our driveway and we are "moving in", and it is below freezing out there, so I am attempting to bring up the temperature inside.

The fireplace is awesome. The FHA furnace seems to be less effective than I had hoped. Now I know it's a very large camper. And I also noticed that the garage floor is not insulated at all, so heating that area adds to the task. With the slider closed it is easier to get the rest of the coach up to temp.
Still, the air coming out of the heat register in the garage is not warm enough. I suspect the duct is not insulated and basically runs back there through the great outdoors.

So with the fireplace at 1500W AND a ceramic heater in the garage at 1200W AND the furnace blasting non-stop it took a good four hours to get to 64ºF.

Also, while peeking at the back side of the water heater during delivery, I noticed a LOT of daylight coming into the utility space there. This means heat loss, not to mention access for little critters that can do big damage..... I couldn't tell whether the utility space itself is heated at all, if it is there will be massive thermal loss. I also suspect that the water system cannot be activated at all in sub freezing weather as that space would NOT be warm enough. On top of that I realize the tanks are not heated..... Again, I am aware that the unit came without the winter package.

I am determined to get down there and make some improvements to A: Make the area less/not accessible to critters, B: Improve the heat retention within the ducting system so that I burn less propane and get warmer air upstairs. Again, we're not going camping in winter, but there will be plenty of chilly days in the 40's where we need a little boost, and a little more efficiency goes a long way. I'm thinking more foam, possible run the ducting inside residential insulated flex ducting etc etc.

Sooooo, what have people done in this regard? And, if the factory folks read this can you chime in as to where you think I would get the most bang for the buck?

Thanks, Oscar.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Oscar,

Hang a 100-150W flood lamp in a reflector above the water pump and plumbing lines. Just make sure it's secure and won't fall down and smoke the floor. I also have a 60W drop light hanging in the UDC to protect the incoming water lines. Both fixtures are readily available at hardware stores.

While you're in that area, check the furnace ducts to make sure nothing's kinked or disconnected.

If you're going to drop the coroplast underbelly, use an impact wrench. You can add insulation, radiant barrier, foamboard as desired. The foamboard can be suspended easily by flexing it into position between frame members.

 

[Bksvo]

I pulled down the Chloroplast this fall with the idea of improving the ducting to the back. I gave up...

They ran two 2" flexible ducts from the furnace to the back of the trailer. One goes about 10' and feeds the kitchen - fairly effective, the kitchen gets warm and the heat coming out of the duct is hot. The other goes another 15' to the garage. There is no way for that 2" duct to retain much heat running 25+ feet under the floor. The problem is, the floor "joists" are only 2" wide, and there is framing and other things that prevent you from making it any bigger.

I decided it was infinitely easier to use a space heater in the back than put any more work into improving the propane heating. One space heater actually does a pretty good job of keeping the back warm, and usually we are camped where electricity is free.

My UDC also has a light installed in it - probably to help with hook up, but it keeps that area from freezing as well.

 

[Snoshoe82]

Ive got a 07 4012 cyclone, in 09 we lived a year at the RV park in Fort Dix, NJ. Winter got down to 10 degs, we made a skirt with 1" insul board and put a ceramic heater by the water intake, electric pipe heaters for the hoses and the water faucet, built enclosures for all outside hoses and fittings, only froze twice when it got to 10 degs over nite. inside 1 elecbase board in the garage for the daughter (drop down bunks), 1 2'x3' flat ceramic heater in the dining room for my son, and a small ceramic for us in the bedroom and bathroom, furnace was for emergiencies ie below 20 degs.
found that if you can control the wind under the trailer it stays much warmer, if you aren't paying for the electric than go ceramic min 50amps supply ha. dehumidifier is must for condensation, air outside dry, air inside wet. sleep with a friend its warmer cover the vent under the refg and add a seal to the area under the doors.
Happy travels