Winterization--how much anti freeze?
- Thread starter aatauses
- Start date
westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
My shorter 30' Sundance takes 2 1/2+ gal. I would think yours will take 3 gal. (remember to fill all drain traps, sinks,shower)
SJH
Past Washington Chapter Leaders
Same here...our 3450TS (38') takes about a gallon and a half and that includes pouring some into the toilet and all the p-traps.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Bill, if you have the combo Splendide 2100, there is a procedure in the instructions to just pour 1/2 quart into the drum, run a spin cycle and call it good. It's all I do to mine. In the spring, I run a short cycle with nothing in the machine other than soap in the dispenser to clear it out.
danemayer
Well-known member
There's also water in the lines going to the washer.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Haven't had a problem with it over the past three winters storage. Maybe having the low point drains helps since I open them and blow air through everything before pumping in the antifreeze.
I guess if you want to put that awful tasting anti-freeze into your water lines that's OK. I did it once back in 1999 when we had a MH. I swore that I'd never do it again. When we got our TT in 2011 I did it again because the tech advised me to do it. I shouldn't have because I could not get that awful taste out of the system. All I do is connect an air regulator at the city water hook-up. Connect my air compressor and slowly at low pressure allow air to enter the system. As the hoses empty of water you can increase the pressure to blow all water out of the lines. Open all faucets inside and the water will blow out of the lines. Sometimes I've taken the camper out for a short drive to get any water in low area to maybe flow so it can get blown out. Then add antifreeze into the traps. You should also run your water pump until the water stops. There might be some water in the pump but in 20 years of doing it this way I've never hurt a pump or had a water leak from any where in the system. Your method may be different and if it works for you that's great but this has worked for me and I'll never use that awful tasting stuff again, except in the traps. Actually most of the time I use windshield washer fluid or just 50/50 car antifreeze for the traps. you could use that Dex-Cool car antifreeze since it is not really good to use in your vehicle. Just my 2 cents worth.
TeJay
TeJay
That's why I chose to pump it into the washer. I don't have low point drains, and I want to make sure that the lines and hoses are purged. A few gallons of anti freeze is cheap insurance.
Folks;
A member wrote a piece some time back and added an SOP to winterize/de-winterize the RV. I wrote him a note, but no reply, so I will add my questions here and hope someone will have the answers.
To de-winterize, the author states:
1. Verify the low point drain is closed and in the UDC make sure the water heater bypass valve is stillin the "bypass" position.
2. Add fresh water to the fresh water tank
3. Insure the anode rod is snugly in place.
4. Ensure the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater is set.
5. turn on the fresh water pump and open each faucet....
My concern is with step 2 above. If you add fresh water to the tank you will be sending a small amount of antifreeze to the fresh water tank from the pump. Would it not be better to connect to city water supply and clear the sinks, shower, toilet lines first? I will have to clear the pump lines at some point, before I use the water supply, but would it be better to do it after I have cleared the sinks, etc?
The member later suggested adding household bleach to the fresh water tank to disinfect the system. On the 2013 Bighorn 3055 RL, how do you add bleach to the fresh water tank, and I don't add bleach, will the water taste bad?
Appreciate any help you can provide.
Ron
rbvett@yahoo.com
2012 Silverado Turbo Diesel
2013 Bighorn 3055RL
A member wrote a piece some time back and added an SOP to winterize/de-winterize the RV. I wrote him a note, but no reply, so I will add my questions here and hope someone will have the answers.
To de-winterize, the author states:
1. Verify the low point drain is closed and in the UDC make sure the water heater bypass valve is stillin the "bypass" position.
2. Add fresh water to the fresh water tank
3. Insure the anode rod is snugly in place.
4. Ensure the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater is set.
5. turn on the fresh water pump and open each faucet....
My concern is with step 2 above. If you add fresh water to the tank you will be sending a small amount of antifreeze to the fresh water tank from the pump. Would it not be better to connect to city water supply and clear the sinks, shower, toilet lines first? I will have to clear the pump lines at some point, before I use the water supply, but would it be better to do it after I have cleared the sinks, etc?
The member later suggested adding household bleach to the fresh water tank to disinfect the system. On the 2013 Bighorn 3055 RL, how do you add bleach to the fresh water tank, and I don't add bleach, will the water taste bad?
Appreciate any help you can provide.
Ron
rbvett@yahoo.com
2012 Silverado Turbo Diesel
2013 Bighorn 3055RL
TeJay;
What do you mean in your post when you say you connect an air regulator at the city water hook-up? I have an air compressor at home that puts out 80 PSI, can I just put the air gun nozzle to the city water hoop-up and blow it in, or is there a connector that I can buy that screws into the the water hook-up?
Thanks
What do you mean in your post when you say you connect an air regulator at the city water hook-up? I have an air compressor at home that puts out 80 PSI, can I just put the air gun nozzle to the city water hoop-up and blow it in, or is there a connector that I can buy that screws into the the water hook-up?
Thanks
boatto5er
Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
You can get a connector for an air compressor at Camping World, probably many RV store. I use 40 psi. 80psi could blow a water line connector, causing a leak. I follow the air blowout with anti freeze, using three gallons (including the washer and a little down every drain). The air gets most of the water out before running the antifreeze in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
danemayer
Well-known member
Ron,
Your question about step #2 in the dewinterizing procedure is a good one. The procedure you're looking at may have been written before the recent change to a single valve that handles city water and fresh tank fill. With the old style gravity fill, there wouldn't be any antifreeze in the gravity fill line.
So you may be correct, you probably want to flush out the antifreeze from the valve using city water before filling the fresh tank.
On getting bleach in, this has been discussed and I think the best idea was to use a funnel to put bleach into the faucet end of your water hose and then connect to the faucet and with the valve set to fill the fresh tank, turn on the water supply to the hose.
If you don't use a bleach solution once in a while, the fresh tank can get a little funky.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Your question about step #2 in the dewinterizing procedure is a good one. The procedure you're looking at may have been written before the recent change to a single valve that handles city water and fresh tank fill. With the old style gravity fill, there wouldn't be any antifreeze in the gravity fill line.
So you may be correct, you probably want to flush out the antifreeze from the valve using city water before filling the fresh tank.
On getting bleach in, this has been discussed and I think the best idea was to use a funnel to put bleach into the faucet end of your water hose and then connect to the faucet and with the valve set to fill the fresh tank, turn on the water supply to the hose.
If you don't use a bleach solution once in a while, the fresh tank can get a little funky.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
rbvett,
Take a short piece of water hose with a male end to screw onto the city water input. Put an air regulator inline in the hose so you can control the air pressure. Now using a hose clamp connect a quick disconnect air fitting so you can plug in your air compressor. When you first start blowing the water out use less than 5 lbs of air pressure. Because you are moving a liquid and it may take a few seconds to push the water out if you start with 40 lbs of pressure you may blow a hose connection. If you start with low pressure you won't. I start by opening a faucet inside then connect the air. It will blow that lines water out. Then open other faucets and close the first. Continue until you've opened ever faucet at least once and cleared all the water out. Don't forget the commode and the outside shower. Also turn on the water pump to flush that water out as well. I was even able to push the water out of the water filter system. Once the water is out of all lines I turn the air pressure up and alternately open and close the lines again. You really don't want 60-80 lbs of air pressure building inside your water lines. If you've got at least one faucet open all the time you won't get pressure build up. With the pressure up you will get a greater flow of air which will blow out more of the water. I then put anti-freeze in the traps and I'm done. I don't add any to the lines because of the taste. This is a new camper so we will see if in the spring I have any split lines or fittings.
TeJay
Take a short piece of water hose with a male end to screw onto the city water input. Put an air regulator inline in the hose so you can control the air pressure. Now using a hose clamp connect a quick disconnect air fitting so you can plug in your air compressor. When you first start blowing the water out use less than 5 lbs of air pressure. Because you are moving a liquid and it may take a few seconds to push the water out if you start with 40 lbs of pressure you may blow a hose connection. If you start with low pressure you won't. I start by opening a faucet inside then connect the air. It will blow that lines water out. Then open other faucets and close the first. Continue until you've opened ever faucet at least once and cleared all the water out. Don't forget the commode and the outside shower. Also turn on the water pump to flush that water out as well. I was even able to push the water out of the water filter system. Once the water is out of all lines I turn the air pressure up and alternately open and close the lines again. You really don't want 60-80 lbs of air pressure building inside your water lines. If you've got at least one faucet open all the time you won't get pressure build up. With the pressure up you will get a greater flow of air which will blow out more of the water. I then put anti-freeze in the traps and I'm done. I don't add any to the lines because of the taste. This is a new camper so we will see if in the spring I have any split lines or fittings.
TeJay
Similar threads
