Winterizing a Greystone

traveler44

Well-known member
I thought the original thread was for a check list and step by step would help. Try this 1.Drain fresh water tank .2.Open faucets and pump water out of lines. 3.Remove anode rod-water will gush out. 4.Bypass water heater. 5.Open one set of faucets starting with the furthest and pump antifreeze until pink. 6.Continue with-faucets-Toilet-showers-wash machine and icemaker lines. 7. Blow out the black tank flush line or pump antifreeze through it. I thought the tank flush valve was supposed to be behind the shower stall. 8. Pour some more pink stuff into sink traps. I drain my holding tanks before adding antifreeze so what goes down the drain helps keep them from freezing too. If we travel in cold weather we leave it winterized until we get passed the freeze zone, flush the toilet with antifreeze, drink bottled water and heat enough water to wash with. Tom M.
 
The discussions following my initial post have been informative. Based on them and my experiences from 40+ years as a boat owner, and lack of experience with RVs, I've come up with the following checklist. I post this as another thought provoking exercise.

Winterizing Checklist
1. Complete Storage Checklist
2. Take freezable liquids off RV (check basement)
3. Buy 3 gallons pink antifreeze
4. Close all windows and roof vents
5. Put plastic over HWH and refrigerator outside vents
6. Oil all hinges and locks
7. Turn thermostat off
8. Wash roof with medium stiffness brush and detergent
a. Inspect caulk at all roof fittings
9. Open all faucets, valves and drains until all systems drain completely
10. Open fresh water tank drain (red hose under conv. center)
11. Run demand pump until water stops then shut off immediately – do not run pump dry
12. Open low point drains – between axles door side
13. Blow out water lines from city water connection – do not exceed 40 psi air pressure
14. Blow out fresh water tank thru tank fill connection
15. Close low point drains & all valves, faucets and drains (and fresh water tank drain)
16. Drain HWH by removing HWH drain plug on outside panel at bottom and opening pressure relief valve
17. Set valve behind HWH to bypass (top & bottom valves closed – middle valve open)
18. Remove HWH anode and store – replace with ¾” drain plug (anti-freeze is very corrosive to anode)
19. Pump pink antifreeze thru siphon pick-up located behind conv. Center in basement. Pump anti-freeze through fresh water lines with water heater bypass closed (confirm by antifreeze not coming out HWH drain plug) – open cold water faucets until antifreeze flows the repeat with hot water
20. Close HWH bypass valve, close HWH relief valve and re-insert drain plug
21. Flush toilet until antifreeze flows into toilet bowl
22. Antifreeze to all sink / shower drains / traps
23. Flush black water tank - drain holding tanks (black & gray)
24. Pour 1 gallon anti-freeze into toilet – add chemicals
25. Open/close black water termination valve quickly to coat valve blade and seal with anti-freeze
26. Pour 1 gallon antifreeze into a sink
27. Open/close gray water termination valve quickly to coat valve blade and seal with anti-freeze
























 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
Regardless of whether you call it an anti-siphon valve, vacuum breaker, or check valve, I again ask; "How do you propose to force antifreeze through the black tank flusher plumbing and past the (enter name here) valve into the tank?"

I think this is what I bought: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 1/2" to 3/4" Male/Male adapter.

Remove the outside shower head and use this adapter to connect the shower head to the inlet towards the anti-siphon valve. It takes a little while to overcome the head pressure, but it does work; evidence is the pink stuff vanishing from the container...right before your eyes.
 

Rocky

Member
I winterized my 2011 Greystone 29MK yesterday at the RV park we were staying at. It was my first time to winterize an RV. I was pretty well prepared by reading post on this and other forums and watching some YouTube videos. Thanks to RoadJunkie for the proper adapter to bring for the outside to black tank flush. My outside shower hose was barely long enough to reach the black tank flush. I bought a plastic 3/4" plug and barely inserted it into the anode rod location on the water heater. I used 3 gallons of antifreeze and would like to have had a fourth gallon to add more in the black and gray tanks which would have probably been overkill. I would recommend bringing a small brush to clean the threads in the water heater for the anode rod. After 6 months of use, the anode rode was in excellent shape but there was some white corrosion build up at the anode bolt thread. I used a 3" extension on my socket wrench and ended up with a good gash on the back of my hand, so use a 5" extension and wear leather gloves. It took a little muscle to loosen the rod.
When you remove the access panel to get to the water pump and back of water heater, mark the UP side on the panel to help finding the holes to screw the panel back on. I am 57 years old, 6'1" and 225 lbs and cannot reach the back of the water heater from the access panel near the UDC because of the small hole and tight quarters. I had to crawl into the storage from the curbside to gain access. My wife is 5'4" tall and too short to be able to lean into storage space and access it without a ladder. I will probably enlarge the access hole next year.
 

albertr

Member
I winterized mine about 2 weeks ago. I am 70 years and usually do my own maintenance on various 5th wheels & trailers that I have owned. I had a hard time getting to the "access" and had to squirm in from curb side. Will also make it bigger. I did not use the fresh water tank at all. Drain was open, but got thinking that maybe when they did the pre-check (LOL) they may have added water and possibly there may be a low spot in the filler hose so I added some antifreeze to the tank. Strangely I had to pour in a whole gallon before it started draining. Al
 
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