Winterizing my 3300 RLB

[Stinger381]

Ok ... I'm getting ready to winterize my 3300 RLB and as I use it alot during the winter months, I'll be doing this frequently. My old Jayco TT was easy, there was an access door which led to the Water Heater By-pass Valves so I would by pass and drain the water heater. Then just add a gallon of anti-freeze and I was done. Now I have the new Sundance 3300 RLB and I have no access door and no easy access to the water pump. Just to make sure I'm doing this right I want to get some expert help before I start.

I think the only way to drain the water heater is to unscrew the plug on the outside access. Then I need to remove screws from below the tall cabinet in the kitchen and get access to the back side of the water heater? I am assuming there will be by-pass valves there? Then I go to the underside storage and look behind the water connection area and the pump is located there? So I find the tube to insert in the gallon of anti-freeze and bypass the fresh water holding tank ? I don't use the fresh water holding tank so I won't need to drain it everytime.

Does this sound right? I hate that there are screws to remove and such. Sundance should really change their design to allow for easier access to these areas as there are many of us who travel in the cold and do this process many times in the winter.

 

[Tuke]

I have a 09 3300rlb The pump is a pain to get to. I removed all the fake walls in the storage compartment to get to mine, and still have to crawl into the storage compartment. I am thinking about moving the pump so its easier to get to.

The bypass vavle for the hot water heater are just a minor inconvenience.

If you look under the camper were the hot water heater is you will find a drain valve for the hot an cold water. this also drains the hot water heater.

 

[2010augusta]

Kenneth, welcome to the Heartland forum. I am sure you'll find a lot of great information here and thank you for the insight in winterizing the Sundance.

 

[2psnapod2]

Kenneth, I see you and I live in the same area. It sure is a small world.

 

[RhettM]

Kenneth, I have the same 3300 RLB. I installed velcro on all the access doors and don't use the screws. Don't forget to drain the low level valves. (behind the back wheels). there will be one blue and one red. (cold and hot). Also, be sure to run the antifreeze thru your outside shower. Good luck

 

[Bighurt]

I don't use anti-freeze in my unit, I just blow out all the air in the water lines with my home compressor. I do add anti-freeze to my p traps... My unit has an access hole just have to remove 4 screws to get to the hose. I recommend just relocating the hose to the UDC. There are a few folks on here that have done so.

 

[Duramax1]

Kenneth, I have the same 3300 RLB. I installed velcro on all the access doors and don't use the screws. Don't forget to drain the low level valves. (behind the back wheels). there will be one blue and one red. (cold and hot). Also, be sure to run the antifreeze thru your outside shower. Good luck

I also replaced all of the screws with velcro on my 2900MK

 

[argyll1st]

Well I will see what damage I have caused when I get back to Vancouver in April, I have to leave my 3300RLB in a hurry in Oct and only had 5min to crack open the two valves behind the back wheels ( hot+cold ) and stick a gallon of antifreeze down all and every hole that would take it !!!!!! I think there was also a low point drain at the multi-function access point ? cant remeber, I just hope its been mild down by the ocean this year.

 

[Riverman]

I would never be comfortable just using the "blow out" method to winterize.
RV Antifreeze is far too cheap and I would hate to have to start changing out split lines.
Not to mention the damage some leaking lines would cause.
Ours has the winterization hose and valve...can git er dun in about 15 minutes.
Well worth the effort for piece of mind IMO.
Nice option to have - way to go Heartland!

 

[Bighurt]

I would never be comfortable just using the "blow out" method to winterize.
RV Antifreeze is far too cheap and I would hate to have to start changing out split lines.
Not to mention the damage some leaking lines would cause.
Ours has the winterization hose and valve...can git er dun in about 15 minutes.
Well worth the effort for piece of mind IMO.
Nice option to have - way to go Heartland!

Works just fine for my Sprinkler system.

I agree antifreeze is cheap, but you then need to add a sanitize step to spring prep. Which is easier with the Heartland added winter prep setup...

 

[Stinger381]

Yeah I did the Velcro method too ... I took the panel off the wall in the kitchen and used some small pieces of tape to make a pull tab that is barely noticeable. So I pull on the tape tab and break the velcro loose to access the by-pass valves on the water heater. Then I went into the storage compartment and removed the screws and pulled the hose up and over the wall. The hose was long enough to reach and I switch the valve on the pump and put the plate and 4 screws back in the wall. It can stay that way all winter as far as I'm concerned because I won't have to switch the valve until I use the water holding tank again. I used a large socket to pull the plug on the water heater to drain it and then added the anti-freeze. It only takes a gallon if you do it right. Make sure you close those red/blue valves before you add the anti-freeze if you drain the water out of the lines, otherwise the pump just pushes the anti-freeze out on the ground. Yeah it took me an extra gallon to figure that one out!

Michael & Kelly it's a small world. We live in Prattville too!