Yet Another hydraulic slide query. (fluid leak)

[blaird]

Greetings.

So it seems my issues with my 16 427RW continue to just hit me constantly. I don't know if I'm just that unlucky, but it seems everything on my trailer is breaking over the last couple of years. From the slide motor on the cable slide ripping off the wall, down to almost every LED strip falling off. You would think I was dragging this trailer off road and going to some really cool places! Nope highway only, and KOA's.

Anyway, Now my main slide on the off door side seems to have a hydraulic leak. I'm pretty sure the leak is on the "retract" side because well that's where all the fluid is after whipping things down. With the slide all the way in I hit retract let it pressurize and poof.. more fluid, problem found.

Obviously to fix this I would have to drop the underbelly to get to it (shame it's not in sections it's one single piece, so I'll probably have to cut it. Unless someone has a better idea.

So I swear when looking that I only had a single cylinder driving the synchro bar. But this picture clearly there is a Y on the retract port. Am missing something or would there definitely be a second cylinder here. (NOTE: if you are not familiar this model has only 1 hydraulic slide. so it's not slaving to a second slide somewhere else).

Next question. I'm supposed to go out and the trailer will be parked for a couple of weeks. I'm assuming when I get there I should be able to run the slide (out) without an issue but probably still loose some fluid but the retract side will just be under the pressure of the fluid moving back to the reservoir. Am I off my rocker?

Next question. I'm correct this is the synchronizing bar in the bottom of this picture the square bar running horizontal.

Last question... would this actually be my fresh water tank sitting there? To be honest I always thought it was somewhere else.

Anywho thanks picture attached.
(PS: I plan on security the slide bracket to the frame when moving because well... retract port and no pressure).

 

[danemayer]

I can't tell what's what in the picture, except that the corner fitting on the tank does suggest it's the fresh tank. You may have two tanks that are connected.

On our LM, I believe there's one ram that goes in and out depending on direction that the hydraulic pump motor rotates. The crossover bar is outside the frame. So when the ram moves, the crossover bar rotates, keeping both side synchronized.

If you have a normal level of fluid in the hydraulic pump tank (with everything retracted), you should be able to extend both the landing gear and the slide. When you retract, the pump is pulling the fluid back the other way, into the reservoir.

 

[blaird]

I can't tell what's what in the picture, except that the corner fitting on the tank does suggest it's the fresh tank. You may have two tanks that are connected.

As silly as this may seem I never thought that there might be *two* different tanks, I suspect that's it. There are *TWO* overflow drains / pipes that stick out the bottom. I never figured out what the second one was for, because when filling I only ever saw water coming from one of them. But that might just be a result of how level you are. Good catch...

 

[mlpeloquin]

As silly as this may seem I never thought that there might be *two* different tanks, I suspect that's it. There are *TWO* overflow drains / pipes that stick out the bottom. I never figured out what the second one was for, because when filling I only ever saw water coming from one of them. But that might just be a result of how level you are. Good catch...

If it is hydraulic, then that is not water! Do not put water in your hydraulic system.

 

[blaird]

If it is hydraulic, then that is not water! Do not put water in your hydraulic system.

HAH! good call... while I knew that and assumed we were talking about water tanks good call incase someone stumbles across this thread and thought we were talking about that and they don't get confused..

YES NEVER USE WATER IN PLACE OF RECOMMENDED HYDRAULIC FLUID.

 

[MCTalley]

I fixed a hydraulic leak on one of our slide pistons by replacing the fitting. It was a decently simple fix once found. The problem was that we didn't find it until 2+ quarts of hydraulic fluid (auto trans fluid) had leaked out into the underbelly. Let's just say that the fluid and the underbelly (coroplast) material are somewhat incompatible. Long term, I ended up having to replace the underbelly material.

At any rate, I determined where my leak was and cut a three-sided hole in the underbelly to access the leaky fitting. Be sure that the fourth, uncut side is toward the front of the trailer. Tape the access hole back up after done (black Gorilla tape works decently, underbelly tape work$ even better).

 

[Bobby A]

I fixed a hydraulic leak on one of our slide pistons by replacing the fitting. It was a decently simple fix once found. The problem was that we didn't find it until 2+ quarts of hydraulic fluid (auto trans fluid) had leaked out into the underbelly. Let's just say that the fluid and the underbelly (coroplast) material are somewhat incompatible. Long term, I ended up having to replace the underbelly material.

At any rate, I determined where my leak was and cut a three-sided hole in the underbelly to access the leaky fitting. Be sure that the fourth, uncut side is toward the front of the trailer. Tape the access hole back up after done (black Gorilla tape works decently, underbelly tape work$ even better).

What is underbelly Tape ?? Never heard of it.
Thanks

 

[donr827]

I once had a leak in my hydraulic system at a fitting. A 1/4 turn on the wrench stopped the leak.

 

[MCTalley]

What is underbelly Tape ?? Never heard of it.
Thanks

On my phone and can’t get a link to work. On Amazon it is called “Flex Mend Belly Paper Tape”.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

I once had a leak in my hydraulic system at a fitting. A 1/4 turn on the wrench stopped the leak.

Same with mine, worth a try before any major work.

 

[sengli]

I used gorilla tape to repair the cuts I had to put in the coroplast on my landmark. Works fine and is still holding after a year.

 

[MCTalley]

I used gorilla tape to repair the cuts I had to put in the coroplast on my landmark. Works fine and is still holding after a year.

It's been my experience that the adhesive starts drying out and the tape starts fraying after a couple years underneath the trailer. However, keeping an eye on the tape as one would with various other sealants and joints on the RV and replacing as necessary should suffice.

 

[blaird]

I figured it was worth the followup. Strange, but I started trying to twist the 9/16 fitting and it wouldn't move. Then cranked on the 7/16 one (that's no the hose size) and it moved... gave it a few twists I'm assuming it's a compression fitting... but then i could crank the longer one. Probably gave it a good 3/4 to full turn. No more leak... wiped up as much of the fluid as I can.

I still could not figure out where the the other line on that T fitting for the retract side goes. It looks like it's feeding over to one of the leveling legs. Next weekend going to try and get a better image of it.

But get this saga continues... large awning seems has a dead motor... Lights don't even dim when you hit it. Checked the fuse it's good (although fuze that says "awning" doesn't seem to be tied to the front awning as it still worked).... Still had power at the switch, but swapped it with a different switch to make sure it wasn't something silly... but of course not